Cobra289
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| posted on 9/5/20 at 03:53 PM |
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Hello,
I have found some information that can be interesting.
Regarding the use of PIN 2 and PIN 23 in a 60 PIN's ECU
Both are dedicated for a KNOCK sensor.
I found dat at the wiring diagram of a 2002 Ford Focus.
Perhaps you can update the PIN list op page 4 of this thread.
In a 104 pin ECU would be PIN 57 and PIN 87
Probably we can use the KNOCK sensor on those pins.
I wonder if Ford has integrated in the code the Knock sensor input and what is the timing change (how they retard, how much and for how long) when de
knock is detected.????
[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/5/20 at 06:32 PM |
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Only the st has the knock sensor. It shows the Rs has one but it doesn’t.
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Cobra289
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| posted on 9/5/20 at 07:33 PM |
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What I see in this document Focus 2002 is the next:
Zetec-SE has Knock Sensor
Zetec-E has Knock Sensor
Duratec- ST has knock sensor Pint 57 and 32
Duratec-RS Don't have knock sensor
Regards,
Cobra289
[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]
[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]
[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]
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Cobra289
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| posted on 9/5/20 at 07:42 PM |
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/5/20 at 07:50 PM |
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Yep, I know them documents show one but having pulled dozens of looms to bits some whilst on the car I can tell you them documents and stuff like auto
data are not always correct. 
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Cobra289
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| posted on 9/5/20 at 07:52 PM |
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13nick85
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| posted on 26/5/20 at 12:11 PM |
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Hi, I'm trying to a put a 60pin focus ecu (feel) into a mk3 fiesta.
Has anybody done a pinout for the 16 pin plug that goes from the engine loom to the car loom?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
UPDATE
Sorted now. But would like to thank the contributors of all the info on this thread
[Edited on 27/5/20 by 13nick85]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 27/5/20 at 11:30 AM |
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I was going to say it should be pretty easy to work out with a multi meter.
They're are also posts from turnip farmer and Martin with more info.
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spegru
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| posted on 20/12/21 at 04:47 PM |
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This topic has been resting awhile!
I have a problem with my previously fine Black Top setup.
Wont start - except that it sometimes seems to fire just as you let go of the key - and *eventually* it's possible to get it going.
I don't think its the ignition switch, as I have a parallel start button and that does the same thing.
Any ideas?
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/12/21 at 12:51 PM |
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Have you got the pats led and obd2 plumbed in ?
But it sounds like a voltage drop to me. Its a usual case of checking the lives and earths ect and a sierra ignition switch could be between 30 and 40
years old so I wouldn't rule it out.
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spegru
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| posted on 21/12/21 at 01:40 PM |
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Hi Big Wasa I hoped youd pop up!
OBD reports low KAM voltage and PATS light does weird stuff. Going out and then flickering
Yes I've wondered about batt voltage stuff but it's fully charged and not sure what the figure at the ECU should be while cranking
anyway?
Not a Sierra column and actually I have a parallel starter button with both going to a relay.....but now you are making me think about that
relay........
back soonish..
Merry Christmas
spegru
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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spegru
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| posted on 31/12/21 at 11:40 AM |
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Hi there, a bit of slow progress due to Christmas events but just tried with 2 separate batteries - one for the car electricals and one specifically
for the starter.
Instant start - three times!
Now why cannot I seem to combine the two systems I wonder......
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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spegru
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| posted on 10/1/22 at 05:46 PM |
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I'm still struggling to get the car to start on a normal single battery. Cranking voltage seems to be about 9 volts. Not starting like that
though. What should cranking voltage be?
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/1/22 at 03:16 PM |
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Sorry I don’t come on here as often as I used to.
I think you have answered your own question. It’s not an ecu problem. You are getting a voltage drop.
Bad cell in the battery.
Damaged, loose, corroded earth / supply or cable.
Starter.
Start with the easy bits.
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spegru
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| posted on 12/1/22 at 06:59 PM |
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Thanks BW.
This problem has been annoying me for months. Ive checked probably dozens of connections with no result
Even a new battery didnt make any difference.
That last voltage-while-cranking I saw at the main fused input was 10.3v - although of course that still leaves the earth side......
What voltage would you say is the minimum for this to work?
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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spegru
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| posted on 17/1/22 at 04:53 PM |
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I did an experiment with a variable external power supply plugged into the fuse for the ECU so that the ECU 'sees' only the PSU voltage
Worked fine down to 8.5v
Went a bit dodgy at 8v though
My battery is putting out 10.5v while cranking and the KAM voltage error I was seeing was actually a wiring fault, now fixed
Still doing the same thing - fires just as cranking stops. Weird
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/1/22 at 07:28 PM |
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If it was working fine and now isn’t I would still go through all the earths, add a few and then try a different starter.
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spegru
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| posted on 22/1/22 at 05:17 PM |
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Fixed it - gah what a stupid fault!
Coil plug connector was a loose fit electrically.
Why? because of the times I had forced a meter probe into it, forcing apart the little electrical grippy things inside the plug terminals
Seems the only-start-on-external battery thing was simply because: lower voltage when cranking = (even) weaker spark
And of course when you check the connections with a meter, all is fine - it's when you connect things together that the fault happens.
Eventually I found the problem when testing at the ECU plug: expecting to see 12v at pins 26 and 52 (with the ECU itself removed). Should have been
12v feed via coil but there wasn't
A bit of contact bending with a tiny screwdriver did the trick but probably a new plug would be a good idea.
Note to anyone interested in this - do not force meter probes into that plug - it can be done but it buggers the plug
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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big_wasa
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| posted on 23/1/22 at 09:27 AM |
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I twist a short length of 1.0mm2 wire and poke that in the pins.
Buggering about with old cars seems to be dying out fast as a hobby.
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spegru
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| posted on 23/1/22 at 04:11 PM |
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Well I don't know about that. There are 65million+ in the UK and if only 0.1% are interested that's still several thousand
Anyway while we are here I will just mention that although Big Wasa did his r&d this with the OWL5 coded EEC-V ECU I can confirm that also we have
had
DESK
NECK
and now JIG3 on operation for 2.0Litre manual Zetec Black top engines
All you need is a matching key
Hi BW thanks for your work and your support
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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Andrzejsr
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| posted on 23/1/22 at 07:55 PM |
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I wonder if someone readig this topic, could send me on PM u2u diagrams from turnipfarmer post, this one :
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=183643&page=0&contribmessage=none
Maybe will try to go this route , reading this full of experience, knowledge and info topic (thank You Big_wasa and others!) . Lot of things to learn,
new to me.
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
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spegru
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| posted on 25/1/22 at 04:54 PM |
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Did this get answered? TBH I found it a bit confusing since you liked to a page where the diagrams were already shown?
Check out Invader Garage on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55qk-tbKc0WjmxGqFoXg
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Andrzejsr
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| posted on 25/1/22 at 05:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by spegru
Did this get answered? TBH I found it a bit confusing since you liked to a page where the diagrams were already shown?
Yes, I got now on email diagrams in Hi-resolution (on the page I am reffering to, are low resolution) from David, who read my post. Many thanks
David again !
(those in high resolution are easier to read, as there are many details)
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
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Andrzejsr
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| posted on 1/7/22 at 07:07 PM |
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It has been a while, but eventually I have wired up (many Thanks !!! to contributors in this topic, @big_wasa , @Turnipfarmer - especialy!, @Shorty
and others) the 60 pin ECU to blacktop Zetec 2.0
Bought a while ago ecu with key and PATS antenna, did not checked before. Now the problem (of course must be ... :-/ ) :
- The ecu-compatiobile (should be) key laying in the antenna.
- Switching the power on (battery isolator) : PATS LED is slowly blinking (that is ok as I have read there)
- turnig the ignition key on : a fuel pump real switching the fuel pump on, it is working for short time, then stops , and PATS LED starts to blink
more frequent
Waiting approx half / minute - this LED starts to show error code 12 (on bling, two blinks, pause, one blink, tow blinks pause etc)
Of course engine does not start.
Did the test and the same procedure but_without_ the ecu-compatibilie key outside the PATS antenna - all the same, but in the end there is other
error code : 11 (one blink, one blink, pause, one blink, one blink, pause).
So I assume the antenna sees that there is a key inside (when it is) , but does not recognize this key (?). Key is bend, bought used with ecu and
antenna together , was suppoused to be all from one car. Could be not working / destroyed chip in the key, or was it not from one car, someone mixed
up those ...
Or could it be other cause of this error 12 and not starting.
Maybe some of You have any ideas is there something I could check before hunting (started to look for already) and ordering another set ECU-key ?
Most important wires checked - positive, negative not mixed, proper wires from antenna connected to appriopriate to the ECU..
Battery should be ok ( new one 18Ah , connected universal OBD bluetooth reader to OBD , used "Piston" applicatioon for android , it showed
12,7 V , starter turns lively, but just in case connected battery to charger).
As for the OBD - my bluetooth reader and applications shows battery voltage, intake air temperature, coolant temperature (seems ok - garage
temperatures as engine is not working) , some values for lambda (dont know much about that) . so I assume OBD connected ok. But no error codes. Might
it be due to not exaxctly compatibile OBD reader plug / application ?
Any help appreciated ! Thank You in advance!
[Edited on 1/7/22 by Andrzejsr]
[Edited on 1/7/22 by Andrzejsr]
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
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Andrzejsr
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| posted on 2/7/22 at 12:34 AM |
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Solved ! (Hope so)
Trying with different key positions with immo antena and eventually got proper LED status with key laying ON the circle of the coil rather than inside
the coil.
EDIT
It WORKS !!!! cant say how nice feeling and relief 
Now a lot of other jobs with the car , but knowing engine works its different.
Many , many thanks to All of You who spent their time and effort to share their knowledge and experience explaining, drawing diagrams etc, really
appreciate that!
[Edited on 2/7/22 by Andrzejsr]
https://aswestfield.wordpress.com/
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