britishtrident
|
| posted on 12/5/12 at 08:17 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by scootz
Bit of a thread revival here, but...
Are arb's typically hollow, or solid?
On tintops always solid on cost grounds, on racers usually tubular because it is lighter for the the same stiffness.
In terms of stiffness, failure load and fatigue life it really doesn't matter as long as the outer diameter is the same, the stiffness is
virtually identical which means the peak strain is also almost identical and the and therefore peak stress is almost identical.
With a tubular bar you really only need to take a bit more care with the detail design of the bends and a fittings.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 12/5/12 at 08:20 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by theduck
I have a sierra front arb on my kit, will be taking if off and
Replacing it with tie bars when I get my head round how to do it!
The problem with the RH was the bar contributed much more to the front stiffness than the spring................
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
scootz
|
| posted on 13/5/12 at 12:37 PM |
|
|
Cheers.
It's for the VW-style beam that I'm fitting to the front of the trike. I've decided I'll be running coil overs on the top
tube and instead of having a torsion bar in the bottom tube, I'll delete it and just solidly connect the bottom trailing-arms via a 5/8"
4130 CrMo tube as the ARB.
It's Evolution Baby!
|
|
|
40inches
|
| posted on 13/5/12 at 02:50 PM |
|
|
Seeing as we are reviving an old thread. I have been toying with the idea of trying one of
these, should fit reasonably well,
being for the Sierra.
You can also buy the individual
parts.
|
|
|
