Brommers
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 08:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by foes
quote:
Originally posted by foes
Right, looks like I need to get this breather mod done, looks pretty straight forward.
Just one thing, where can those aluminum inserts/plugs to block the exhaust ports be purchased from? Thats the only bit i'm struggling on,
finding something to seal those up properly...
Also where's the best place to purchase a catch tank from, are the cheapo ones off ebay any good?
Cheers.
Anyone?
Can't help you on where to buy the port plugs, as I mmade mine myself on the lathe. As
for catch tanks, mine are from Rally Design but at the end of the day
it's just a box with a pipe sticking out of it, so it's hard to go wrong, really.
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boggle
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 08:48 AM |
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PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
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foes
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 09:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Brommers
Can't help you on where to buy the port plugs, as I mmade mine myself on the lathe. As
for catch tanks, mine are from Rally Design but at the end of the day
it's just a box with a pipe sticking out of it, so it's hard to go wrong, really.
Yeh thats what I was thinking about the catch tanks.
The aluminium inserts you've made, are they just an interference fit then?
Cheers.
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Brommers
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 02:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by foes
The aluminium inserts you've made, are they just an interference fit then?
Cheers.
They are, although there's a recess in both the cam cover and the cylinder head into which the dowels which the inserts replace sit, so they
can't really go anywhere. I added a bit of JB weld just to be on the safe side, however...
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 02:42 PM |
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I used taper pins and then riveted the casting over a bit to stop then coming out. Can't help with the source though as they were in a tin in
the back of the stores at work; been there for years.
For a catch tank I modified an ally drinks bottle from a hiking shop (£1 in the sale) by drilling 2 holes in the stopper and inserting pipes into
them, secured with PU adhesive.
Having done the breather mod though I only get condensation in it and no oil.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Gergely
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| posted on 12/4/10 at 04:55 PM |
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Hi, we just hammered tapered aluminium nails (not really nails, but similar to them or rivets...) that we found in the garage.
The catch tank we used was a household aluminium bottle, fitted a tube and a small motorbike air filter on top... cost almost nothing...
Gergely
Our build pictures
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foes
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| posted on 18/7/10 at 06:28 PM |
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Ok finally got round to blanking the exhaust ports off, drilling the additional holes and plumbing some breather hose's in.
Now, i've only blanked the holes off in the cam cover, by tapping out the holes in there and plugging with bolts with copper washers to seal
them.
Is this correct or do I need to plug them underneath where the original dowels fit into the engine block..?
A pic to help describe.
I've blanked the exhaust holes here (as per gergely's photo);
 
Modified breather
Is this ok or do I need to also blank inbetween the cam cover and block with some solid dowels or similar?
[Edited on 18/7/10 by foes]
[Edited on 18/7/10 by foes]
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/7/10 at 07:32 PM |
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No, thats it.
I did put some fine stainless gauze over the holes into the cam case and some wire wool into the AIS box to condense any oil vapour.
Not had a drop of oil in the catch tank since, just some water condensed in there if it does short runs and not gets hot.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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foes
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| posted on 18/7/10 at 08:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
No, thats it.
I did put some fine stainless gauze over the holes into the cam case and some wire wool into the AIS box to condense any oil vapour.
Not had a drop of oil in the catch tank since, just some water condensed in there if it does short runs and not gets hot.
adrian
Cheers, thanks for that Adi.
Just need to make a catch tank now, got it plumbed into an old stella can at the minute 
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/7/10 at 09:39 PM |
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Mine goes into an ally' drinks bottle with a screw cap. 2 holes drilled in the cap with pipes bonded into them (sikoflex); One long pipe into
the bottom feeds gas in (pipe from gearbox breather and new cam breather T'd together) and a short pipe vents out to air box (could go to
atmosphere via a filter).
Asda are selling the ally bottles in thier camping/BBQ section for a couple of quid.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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*AL*
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| posted on 22/1/11 at 06:22 PM |
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Can anyone show me a pic of an installed 'catch tank' in the engine bay as i don't fully understand the set up. I do understand what
they do, but a picture speaks a thousand words so to speak. Cheers Al.
[Edited on 22/1/11 by *AL*]
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Vedde
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| posted on 12/6/14 at 04:37 PM |
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Spitting like crazy
Hi
I did this mod on my 5vy (05) R1 because of the oil spitting from the gearbox vent.
I overfill moderately over the sightglass.
When I do 7-8 laps of real hard driving with lots of corners and high G forces It fills the ½ liter catchtank and I need to stop and drain.
Only difference is that I have pipes the opposite way on the cover, can this be the difference?
Or can someone show me a good place to put the oil back from the catch tank, over the oil level?
Would like to put a line from catchtank bottom back into the engine.
Cheers
/Fred
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CosKev3
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| posted on 12/6/14 at 07:54 PM |
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Not sure if its different on a bike eng, but I doubt it, the oil return needs to be below the oil level in the engine/sump.
As if its higher it just becomes another crankcase breather
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/6/14 at 08:26 PM |
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Over filling higher than the sight glass (if thats running) might be the issue. Most use 2/3 to 3/4 way up the glass, hot at idle as the level. Have
you got a sump baffle? Having the pipes going uphill from the cam cover would help them drain back though mine are horizontal.
If you do want a drain on your tank then you should be able to find a fitting that could go through the deep side of the sump. It'd have to be
welded in or have a nut on the back as the sump is too thin to tap (IMO)
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Vedde
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| posted on 13/6/14 at 09:56 PM |
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Thanks
It might be the issue, I'll have to run it hot and se where on the glass the oil level is. Read somewhere that it should be filled to the top of
the glass then 250ml more, might just bbe running too much oil
Can I gravity feed the oil back to the sump under oil level?(low on the deep side)
Won't it push oil that way up to the catch tank? or is the oil in the sump not under pressure?
I do have a baffleplate like the ones I've seen here bought on eBay from the UK.
I have a temp meter and a pressure meter mounted in the oil cooler bolt, as seen on this forum too.
Never had problems with temp or pressure but as the author of this threads mishap with blowing an engine, I will not take the chance.
anyone have a close up on an oil return into the engine/sump?
Where do the Turbo guys feed their oil return back to the engine?
Cheers
/Fred
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philfingers
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| posted on 2/7/14 at 02:44 PM |
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quick question guys in this engine.
I'm about to fit a baffle plate and thought from what i'd read that I just walk into a dealers and get a sump gasket. All the local
dealers are on a 3 day delivery for one.
So do i need a gasket for the sump or would 3bond, silicon gasket etc seal it ok?
thanks,
Phil
The true home of cars born under the Sylva name - http://jpsc.org.uk/forum
STM Phoenix R1
Sold-Sylva Striker 1300xf, 40s etc
Sold-Sylva Phoenix, 1300xf, BVH, 234cam, 2xDCOE 40s, live axle - 'old school', rally car and a few bikes
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