Avoneer
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 08:58 PM |
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If you use the foam as originally planned, couldn't you then cover it with just fibreglass resin? Have seen this done before and it works.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 10:11 PM |
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UK readers have something equivalent called
the yellow pages
duh 
atb
steve
quote:
Originally posted by pbura
quote:
Originally posted by sgraber
Wow Pete, that's a good list. Please don't tell me you googled it! I'd be embarassed. heheh I went to H Depot and didn't see
the pink stuff. What department is it in? Not construction materials. At least not in Phoenix, but maybe it's a regional thing.
Nah, it was from some online Yellow Pages (commercial phone directory for UK readers).
Come to think of it, the pink board has limited usefulness even in my area. I put some under a wood floor on a concrete slab porch once, but
can't think of anywhere else I'd use it. May be NFG in AZ because of termites, which are not much of a threat here.
One thought I've had for filling the gaps is to cross-brace between the profiles, staple chicken wire 1/2" below the surface, and fill
with plaster. I'd think that this would be very fragile, though (wouldn't dare moving it without many hands), and that you'd only
get one shot at making a mold.
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pbura
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| posted on 6/6/04 at 10:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
UK readers have something equivalent called
the yellow pages
duh
Wasn't sure, exactly Now you know what a big-time traveler I am.
Pete
Pete
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MustangSix
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| posted on 7/6/04 at 02:23 AM |
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Steve, maybe I misunderstood the type of foam you are using, but I thought it was rather thin strips that you were going to lay over the outline of
your form.
What I had in mind is similar to the method used by some artists to make large scale figures. Wire mesh over a buck, layered with plaster, then
formed to shape. Kind of like a stucco house or plaster wall, but with shape. window screen is pliable enough to form but stiff enough to hold a
shape.
Not sure if the technique would work, but it's an idea.
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marc n
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| posted on 7/6/04 at 07:21 AM |
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the foam we have used was purchased from a company who makes industrial buildings, it is used as insulstion in the roof and wall structures, comes in
8 x 4 sheets. not too expensive cuts and sands very easily. We have sucessfully used this to make the bucks for all the bodywork on our car.
regards
marc
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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sgraber
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| posted on 7/6/04 at 05:09 PM |
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Thanks Marc, that's helpful.
I bought some 2" (5.08cm) 4'x8' styro sheets from the hardware store, But I need to glue them together (stack) to make enough height
between my ribs. Any suggestion on adhesives to use for bonding Styro that I can still use a hotwire with?
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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chrisf
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| posted on 8/6/04 at 12:33 AM |
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Foam Source
Don't you live in the Pheonix area?? I suspect that construction is booming near you. Perhaps you could pull midnight shopping spree for the
sheets of foam.
Or if you are honest (like me) you can offer $10 to the framers and they will look the other way.
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marc n
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| posted on 8/6/04 at 12:56 AM |
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what about model shops, thought that some models where made from styro foam, i.e plane wings etc. we used sikaflex to bond all the pieces of
insulation foam but not sure if this is ok for the foam you are using. After all the hours we have had making our seven type bodywork my hat goes of
to you, A project of that size is a lot of work, but it certainly looks like you are going to have a very nice looking car indeed at the end
regards
marc
[Edited on 8/6/04 by marc n]
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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sgraber
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| posted on 11/6/04 at 03:41 PM |
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Well, foam carving is well coming along. Styrofoam adhered between mdf ribs using liquid nails construction adhesive. It eats the foam a little, but
cures to a skin fast enough that the bond is acceptable.
I've already decided that I am going to skim the foam with a layer of drywall mud to fill in the really low spots and big gaps between the
panels, then skim that with a layer of strand reinforced body filler for hardness, then continue out over top of that with another layer of drywall
mud so that I can final shape and sand with ease. Covering that will be Kilz Hifill primer and possibly a final coat of Duratec. But I'll wait
for that.
To me, this seems like a fairly efficient and cost effective method.
And speaking of costs. To create the entire front of the car - up to the windshield - I used about $15 worth of foam sheets, about $7 worth of
adhesive, $7 of wood for the ribs and .50 cents worth of NiChrome wire.
 
Foam Front Finished
[Edited on 6/11/04 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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Spyderman
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| posted on 14/6/04 at 01:59 PM |
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Wow!
That is taking shape very quickly!
A bit late now but you could have used predrilled holes in the ribs and used cocktail sticks for fixing the foam in with.
Guess you have it all sussed now though! 
Looking good!
Terry
Spyderman
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locoboy
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 08:41 AM |
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what a fantastic thread, this goes to show the kind of people that are members on here, all willing to stick their idea forward and nobody is beaten
down for a bad idea, they are all considered on their merits.
I dont think there is a lot that cant be achieved with the wealth of knowledge and practical solutions available on here.
big pat on the back for everyone i think and an extra big one for Steve for actually taking some of the advice and trying it!
Looking good too Steve
ATB
Locoboy
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 09:47 AM |
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It looks real, already.
Those are the styrofoam billets I was on about earlier. Are you using gypsum plaster over the top of it? Body filler, bondo I think you call it, would
be better but more expensive. The "drywall mud" is easily disturbed if you flex it in any way. It should be o.k. if you are taking the
mould from it without removing it though.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Dale
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 12:17 PM |
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This is insperational as I have to build a custom back end for my build and hopefully one piece hood with scoop and rad shroud (hotrod style front
end)
Nice hint with the hot wire cutting--how are the fumes??
Dale
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sgraber
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| posted on 15/6/04 at 02:58 PM |
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Thank you guys. Not a negative comment throughout the thread really... Amazing. Encouraging.
I received several emails from some people experienced in drywall who were concerned about the gypsum based drywall just like yourself Petef. The
concensus is that I should mix up a batch of the powdered plaster. It reacts chemically to dry, dries in 1/2 the time (not really an issue when its
105f outside) but more importantly is waterproof and much harder then the stuff I am using. If it weren't over foam, I wouldn't worry
about it so much. But there are certainly areas of the body right now that are still eggshell thin and they break with the lightest touch. I think
it's almost essential to get a harder coat on there.
The wire cutter does make fumes that are a little irritating. I use a fan to blow them away while I am cutting. From what I have read PolyStyrene
(open and closed cell) is not toxic, Polyurethane is supposedly very, very toxic!
I also read Paul Stockleys latest update about making the seats for his LMP. He made a hotwire too. Much, much nicer than mine (as is everything he
does) but he used mig welding wire in place of the nichrome wire. Simple and even more convenient for most of us since we now don't even have to
leave the building to make the cutter!
[Edited on 6/15/04 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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PHULL
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 05:36 AM |
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dsss
you could staple laging wire to the wood forms if you wanted it wo bond together
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chrisf
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 01:20 PM |
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Powder Plaster
Is Plaster of Paris the stuff used for this??
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sgraber
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 03:44 PM |
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I don't think so. It's a product called Durabond and it's available in the USA in all hardware stores. It's specifically for
wall application. It's waterproof after hardened.
Steve
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chrisf
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 04:50 PM |
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What section of the depot did you get this stuff?
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Dale
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| posted on 16/6/04 at 06:29 PM |
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The durabond stuff is great as in its origanal use I have used it for doing arches ect when I renavated the last house. You can lay it up thick to a
half inch or more thick and If I remember right it comes in 20,40,and 90 minute formulas. Just remember to get it formed and sanded quick as its a
bastard to sand afterwards as its very hard.
Dale
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