cosmick
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| posted on 25/9/10 at 01:48 PM |
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neo2.
I would need the engine number to date it properly, but K1,2,3 and 4 are all the same wire to disconnect so that gives you a 4 year range.
Do you have a 4 pin diagnostic port or 6 pin? If you have a 4 pin then the engine will be a K1 or 2. If you have a 6 pin connector then it will be a
K3 or 4.
The diagnostic port is a white connector with a rubber cover over the plug.
Kind regards,
cosmick
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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neo2
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| posted on 25/9/10 at 07:51 PM |
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Excellent will check that out cosmick..
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 27/9/10 at 10:25 AM |
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Elecrics: K1 and K2 are identical, K3 and K4 are identical. The looms are essentially the same K1-K4, but there are some important differences with
how the electrons shuffle. Your exhaust valve advice is true for K1-K4 universally.
A quick look at the engine will tell you K3 or 4, simply by the engine mountings (1 less head/block) on the K3-K4. K3-K4 management is smaller,
faster, using different trigger wheels for function (more teeth). TB's will have a black plastic rail (K3-K4), alloy tube sections (K1-K2).
Injectors are pintle type K1-K2, multihole K3-K4. Your tilt switch K1-K2 will have 2 wires, K3-K4 will have 3.
The looms may well be difficult to differentiate, especially if modified (as they should be) to remove all the bike crap.
As for oil pressure (and for future reference), it's often alarmingly low. Volume on these engines is the critical thing, so be careful when
it's cold..... don't nail the 1st grid launch until the oil is hot!
[Edited on 27/9/10 by motorcycle_mayhem]
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neo2
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| posted on 27/9/10 at 09:23 PM |
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Here you go a couple of engine pictures of mine..
Rob
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neo2
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| posted on 28/9/10 at 06:31 PM |
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whilst disconnecting the black/brown wire to fix the C46 error code i found another wire cut or broken any idea's its in the picture below in
wire hole number 21 arrowed
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cosmick
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| posted on 28/9/10 at 09:02 PM |
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neo2,
Hope you are now sorted with the correct wires disconnected. The wires need to be insulated so as not to touch any earth. If they do, the FI light
will come back on.
cosmick
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 30/9/10 at 08:47 PM |
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Sorry about the tardy response, I've been up to my armpits in engine bits. A (very) viable unit is now in the car for another upcoming weekend
of (what is looking VERY wet) motorsport. At least the clutch won't take a large strain...
OK, you have a K1-K2 engine (3 bolt holes on crankcase/head), with K1-K2 TB's, Loom and Management. The only difference with K1-K2 are
essentially the TB's. The STV's will have a cold idle run by a cable on the K1, by the ECU on the K2. All ECU's and loom are the
same K1-K2, it'll pick up which TB's you've fitted and act accordingly.
The K1-K2 block doesn't have the 'windows' cut at the bottom of the bores (pumping loss benefits), so it's a strong block.
They're great for boring and stroking.
Enjoy.
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