RickRick
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 06:24 PM |
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i had something similar with mine, it was down to either the crank or cam sensor, it'd run like a bag of poo if you got the throttle just right
and turned it over for a bit, died as soon as it went back to idle
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Toprivetguns
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 06:29 PM |
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I had similar problems with my ZX10R. Not teaching you to suck eggs, but are all the connectors correctly fitted ? I managed to fit a brown connection
plug to a grey plug, Doh!
They were not idiot proof...
Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !
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dazzx10r
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 06:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Toprivetguns
I had similar problems with my ZX10R. Not teaching you to suck eggs, but are all the connectors correctly fitted ? I managed to fit a brown connection
plug to a grey plug, Doh!
They were not idiot proof...
Aah! forgot about that one! BigMac does your car have a power comander fitted? It is VERY easy to plug the conectors in the wrong way round and then
it will run like a bag of shite!
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minitici
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 07:33 PM |
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Sounds to me that you have wired the starter switch so that it powers the 'stop/run' switch only when the starter button is being
pressed.
That would cause the engine to stop immediately the starter button is released.
Check that the run switch is powered independently to the starter button.
As for wet plugs - on bikes they never seem to recover.
As a temporary measure a good heat from a blowtorch can get them working but best option is to replace.
(but wait until you know that the engine will run before you fit an expensive new set of plugs).
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roadrunner
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 09:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by minitici
Sounds to me that you have wired the starter switch so that it powers the 'stop/run' switch only when the starter button is being
pressed.
That would cause the engine to stop immediately the starter button is released.
Check that the run switch is powered independently to the starter button.
As for wet plugs - on bikes they never seem to recover.
As a temporary measure a good heat from a blowtorch can get them working but best option is to replace.
(but wait until you know that the engine will run before you fit an expensive new set of plugs).
After watching your video clips Ben, I would say that minitici must be close with this one.
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BigMac
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 11:33 AM |
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Thanks to everyone for the replies!
I'm at the garage now, so will first of all unplug and reseat all the connectors after giving them a quick clean and light spray of WD40. But
agree with you both on the starter button wiring issue, as it is actually starting practically straight after me pressing the button, it just dies
when I let go of the switch. So next up is to check my wiring!
Update soon :-)
Ben.
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BigMac
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 03:28 PM |
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OK, so just to be on the safe side I double checked the starter circuit this morning, all wired up as it should be.
With a fully charged battery I managed to get it to start and run for a few seconds, even when my finger was off the starter button. Took the plugs
out afterward and they're damp with fuel, so am assuming they aren't doing their job properly. Had a go at starting it according to some
pointers from Mark at MAC1, but as this is my first bike engine I'm assuming I'm not doing something properly.
Luckily I have a few friends who are into their bikes, will see if I can get one of them round to see how they'd get a lazy engine to start up
again.
Will update when I've had another go!
Thanks again everyone, feels like I'm getting somewhere now!
Ben.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 05:17 PM |
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Ben, having read and re-read your posts I can't determine if you've tried new spark plugs yet or not. If not, definitely give them a go.
You may be pleasantly surprised...........
Phil
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Peteff
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 05:45 PM |
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Those are iridium plugs and I have never had any success cleaning them and getting them working again. Can you get the CR9E non-iridium to get it
started ? They are a quarter of the price.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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BigMac
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| posted on 8/1/12 at 08:08 PM |
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Well up to now I'd not changed the plugs (I figured it must be an electrical issue caused by me and nothing to do with the mechanical side of
things!). Have managed to get a set of CR9EIA-9 plugs for £32 delivered from Camskill, which I don't think is too bad! Hopefully they'll
turn up soon :-)
Does anyone have any suggestions on preparations/pre-cursors before I load in the new plugs and start it up? I want to give it the best possible
chance to start with the new plugs, rather than start temporarily, die, then dowse the plugs in fuel!
Thanks,
Ben.
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Smartripper
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| posted on 9/1/12 at 03:53 PM |
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I had a something the same with my indy zx12r
came down that the powercommander was faulty, can u just remove the powercommander from ur engine and try again.
Took me 2 weeks to discover it was the PC..... grrrrrrr
send it back to them and got a new one free off charge
greetings Daniel
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BigMac
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| posted on 9/1/12 at 04:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Smartripper ... can u just remove the powercommander from ur engine and try again ...
Hi Daniel- I don't have a Power Commander fitted to this unit yet. If and when I get the thing started, I will be investing in one over the
summer! 
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roadrunner
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| posted on 12/1/12 at 12:41 PM |
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Have you got those plugs yet Ben.
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BigMac
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| posted on 12/1/12 at 12:50 PM |
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Yep, arrived yesterday, checked the gaps on them last night.
Am waiting for a friend of mine who's big into his bikes to come round and give me a hand starting it up. I'm wanting to make sure every
other possible condition is a good as possible before I drop the new plugs in! Update due shortly!
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BigMac
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| posted on 16/2/12 at 01:57 PM |
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Well, full set of new and gapped plugs went in over the weekend, still not starting! 
After trying to turn it over I took the plugs out to see if they were damp with fuel- seems the opposite now! Take them out and they seem dry, no
smell of fuel on them. Previously when trying to start it up I was getting some smoke out of the exhaust and could smell fuel, whereas now,
nothing!
To double check the fuel pump, I disconnected the fuel line and turned on the ignition- fuel did come out but it was an off colour- it was almost a
light bronze (still translucent, just a different colour). A couple of primes of the pump and it was back to normal. The fuel-rail was under pressure,
as it hissed as I took the line off it (covered with a cloth!).
Suppose my next port of call now is an automotive sparky or similar, as I really am totally out of ideas now!
Ben.
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BobM
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| posted on 16/2/12 at 02:11 PM |
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But is your fuel pump staying on Ben? Like most injected bikes the ZX10 pump comes on when you switch the ignition/ECU on but then goes off after
about 2 seconds until the engine's turning. I think it looks for a signal from either the crank sensor or the cam sensor, not sure which.
Not very Locost but very BEC
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roadrunner
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| posted on 16/2/12 at 03:10 PM |
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BigMac
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 04:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BobM ... But is your fuel pump staying on Ben? ... I think it looks for a signal from either the crank sensor or
the cam sensor, not sure which...
I've just removed the airbox and given it another go... Opened the throttle so I could see down into the chambers (sort of) and no fuel, no
smell and no hissing of injectors. Looks like you're right, Bob. I'm going to get the manual out again tonight and check the
Troubleshooting for the DFI system, here's hoping it's just not getting it's signal from the crank/cam sensor.
Also now have the name of a sparky to try, so if I can't find anything, I have a backup plan...
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BobM
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| posted on 18/2/12 at 04:30 PM |
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You should be able to hear the fuel pump solenoid clicking on and off. Trouble is you won't hear it while the engine's turning ... Can you
check the 12v feed to your fuel pump, or the output to it from the fuel pump solenoid and check you're getting 12 volts there when the
engine's turning?
I did work it out when I rewired my loom (I stripped out the relays controlling the interlocks and substituted a 68k ohm resistor for the tipover
switch) and now can't remember exactly which inputs control what but the ECU controls 12v feed to the injection system (blue wires IIRC) based
on getting the right inputs from the various sensors and interlocks, so worth checking your sidestand, kill switch and tipover sensor wiring etc.
Not very Locost but very BEC
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BigMac
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| posted on 26/2/12 at 09:02 PM |
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Well...
it starts! Sort of...
My bike sparky turned up on Saturday morning and we managed to identify (what we think was the cause of the problems) a loose earth connection.
Originally I'd stripped all the paint and zinc coating from part of a chassis rail, tapped a hole into it, then bolted the loom's earth
connection to that; the wires weren't properly loose, but not as tight as they should have been. To sort that out I've drilled right the
way through and run a bolt and nut through it, instead...
The reason I say 'sort of', is that I came to start it this morning and it wouldn't go... Now my primary thought is that it's
probably because there's little/no fuel in the tank (confirmed by connecting up the fuel gauge the needle moving the smallest amount from the
stop... Because nothing has changed between it starting and me trying it this morning!
So in summary, looks like all the issue was, was a poor quality earth (and I'm to blame!).
Thanks to everyone for your advice and guidance, seems my key learn from this is that even the smallest of things can cause you big problems,
electrics wise!
Ben.
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