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Author: Subject: I'm doing something wrong, help!
theduck

posted on 4/3/12 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
Doesn't sound like it wants to fire at all. Just cranks over on the starter.

When you say is the distributor in correctly go you mean the distributor itself or the leads on the cap?

Edit; ah ok, that's fine then.

[Edited on 4/3/12 by theduck]

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lotusmadandy

posted on 4/3/12 at 08:13 PM Reply With Quote
The dizzy. Make sure the rotor is pointing at no 1 with the engine timed at
top dead centre.If it is 180deg out it wont go.

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theduck

posted on 4/3/12 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
Right ok, at the moment with cyl 1 at tdc the rotor arm is pointing roughly at 4/5 o'clock if 12 o'clock is towards the block.
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lotusmadandy

posted on 4/3/12 at 08:23 PM Reply With Quote
Put the dizzy cap on and make sure that the lead
is going to no1.
If it is going to no4,then it is 180degs out.

If it is,take the dizzy out and rotate the shaft to point at no1.

Andy

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theduck

posted on 4/3/12 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
I'm lost, when i put the cap on I can pick which lead goes on which terminal, so I put the lead to cyl1 on the terminal the rotor points to.
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lotusmadandy

posted on 4/3/12 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
u2u sent
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Andy D

posted on 4/3/12 at 09:38 PM Reply With Quote
If there's no fireing at all, not even a backfire, I suspect there's either no ignition at all or no fuel. If the plugs are wet, you have fuel, and no or not good ignition. Dry plugs, mean no fuel.
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theduck

posted on 4/3/12 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
I checked the spark plug and it's definitely sparking.

Not had it out again since trying to start it so don't know if they are wet.

Lotusmadandy sent me a u2u with some checks for timing which are all ok.

Is there anyway the cam can be timed wrongly on the cam pulley?

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lotusmadandy

posted on 4/3/12 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
There is a woodruff key on the cam,so unless
someone has left it out the cam cant move.

Check the compression on no 1 when its on the firing stroke.
If all is ok then no problem.


Andy

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theduck

posted on 4/3/12 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers.

Will try a different carb tomorrow

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jollygreengiant

posted on 4/3/12 at 11:13 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by lotusmadandy
There is a woodruff key on the cam,so unless
someone has left it out the cam cant move.

Check the compression on no 1 when its on the firing stroke.
If all is ok then no problem.


Andy


It is possible to put the cam sproket on the wrong way round, ie front face to rear and that will put the cam timing out relative.


Also I have known the resistor in the rotor arm break down, you get a spark, but not enough to fire or no spark at all, I know of one mechanic who changed the distributor becuse of this, he thought it was the distributor.


If you have spark and wet plugs the trick with a VV carb was to get someone to turn the engine over while you held the needle slide fully open.





Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.

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MikeRJ

posted on 5/3/12 at 12:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by lotusmadandy
The dizzy. Make sure the rotor is pointing at no 1 with the engine timed at
top dead centre.If it is 180deg out it wont go.


It's not quite that simple - the rotor should be pointing to no.1 with the engine set to TDC on the compression stroke. It could quite legitimately be 180 degrees out if you set the crank timing marks to TDC exhaust stroke.

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Not Anumber

posted on 5/3/12 at 12:09 PM Reply With Quote
If in doubt turn the dizzy round half a turn and try again.
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owelly

posted on 5/3/12 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
Simple things......
Check you have the correct firing order and that the rotor arm is spinning the same way as you are numbering the plug leads.
Quick squirt of Easystart down the carbotooter will tell you if you are looking for an ignition fault or a fuelling fault.
Then we're looking at compression testing.....making sure the valves are all closing.





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theduck

posted on 5/3/12 at 12:51 PM Reply With Quote
Just to confirm the timing checks that have been done. Cam lines up with tdc Mark, crank lined up with Mark on pulley, distributor as photos shows above.

Tried easy start down the carb and still doesn't fire.

Checked spark at plug and it does spark.

Checked rotation of rotor arm and that matches lead order.

Have cranked off battery alone and with jump lead to try and eliminate possible weak battery.

Other than these what else cannot be? Am thinking this morning either compression or coil, leaning towards coil as same fault on two engines?

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owelly

posted on 5/3/12 at 01:30 PM Reply With Quote
Try getting an old spark plug and opening the gap to 5-6mm and see if it still sparks. If it does, I doubt the coil is at fault.
Did you have the butterflies open on the carb when you tried the Easystart? Is there any way there is air getting sucked into the inlet? Dodgey servo or open tappings etc? If the engine is sucking air in, rather than fuel......?
In my experience, Easystart will fire with a very weak spark. Even if the timing was miles out, it would backfire.





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

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theduck

posted on 8/3/12 at 11:36 AM Reply With Quote
Ok so getting back in the garage tonight. Plan of action is as follows:

Crank engine
Remove plug to see if wet with fuel

If dry change carb and try again and hope it starts.

If wet try an opened out plug to check strength of spark and come back for advice. Lol

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bartonp

posted on 8/3/12 at 01:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by theduck
Ok so getting back in the garage tonight. Plan of action is as follows:

Crank engine
Remove plug to see if wet with fuel

If dry change carb and try again and hope it starts.

If wet try an opened out plug to check strength of spark and come back for advice. Lol


Could also chuck some fuel down the inlet & it should start & run briefly (probably been suggested already).

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theduck

posted on 8/3/12 at 01:18 PM Reply With Quote
Think it has een suggested, tried easy start and and not even a cough.
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theduck

posted on 8/3/12 at 07:41 PM Reply With Quote
It's teasing me now!!

Tried the spark plug test and got good spark on this plug





So I changed carb to the 34ich, remembering to connect a live to the fuel cut off and this is the result


May need to click picture for video

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theduck

posted on 8/3/12 at 08:05 PM Reply With Quote
Link first video. http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/stumac1985/cec283c4.mp4

Link to better video. http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/stumac1985/15db3c77.mp4

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theduck

posted on 8/3/12 at 11:06 PM Reply With Quote
Owelly just seen what you said about servo. Can I blank off the servo outlet to eliminate that as a problem??
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Chippy

posted on 8/3/12 at 11:58 PM Reply With Quote
In your second vid, it did sound as though you were getting a slight chuff every now and then. I havent read the complete post but was it a running engine when you got it, have you stripped any of it? Battery didn't sound in the best of health! I would be inclined to check the valve timing, ignition timing, and ensure that the carb was clean without any blocked jets. Check that the earth connection from the battery is good to the engine. HTH Ray





To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy

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theduck

posted on 9/3/12 at 08:37 AM Reply With Quote
Engine was sold to me as running though I have not heard it running.

Came with a VV carb which I couldn't get any life out of at all so swapped to this webber 34ich which seems to be better but still not starting. have tried easy start also and that is still the best I am getting. Timing has all been checked and all line up with relevant marks.

Could it be a vacuum leak? Can j block off the pipe to the servo to remove that from the equation?

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owelly

posted on 9/3/12 at 08:57 AM Reply With Quote
Yup, block off pipe to servo.





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