britishtrident
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| posted on 30/10/12 at 09:01 PM |
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Please read this carefully and take from a thread the advice what you may not want to hear.
I'll put it in very simple terms your engine is trying to run backwards ! because it has way too much ignition advance at
cranking RPM.
Also the current the starter took in a bench test is nothing to do with the current it draws under the load trying to start the engine under
normal conditions never mind the massive current the starter will draw fighting an engine that is trying to run backwards.
So you want to stick in a massive battery something like a type 096 that would be more at home in a 3 litre diesel, it may well a enough ummph
to fight the kick back and get it started but you are lugging around an extra massive weight. So how come there are guys on the forum running
Zetecs with tiny 14ah motorcycle batteries ?
If there was anything wrong with your battery it would have shown up under test, volts drop tests on batteries measure the voltage a battery
produces under a massive current load, nearly three times what would be demanded by a 2 lite petrol engine during a cold start in current
weather conditions.
As for your "tuners" do they not posses a a volt meter and timing light to run very basic tests ? A simple cranking voltage test with
the ignition disconnected would tell a lot as would checking the ignition timing at cranking speed.
[Edited on 30/10/12 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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lordbenny
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| posted on 30/10/12 at 10:51 PM |
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I think that my crap Mini/Austin/British Leyland battery just isnt man enough, I am no expert by any means but my cheap battery cold cranks 300amps
and a standard Mondeo battery cranks at least 450. Im wasnt thinking of getting something too massive, just the right tool for the job!
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 12:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lordbenny
I think that my crap Mini/Austin/British Leyland battery just isnt man enough, I am no expert by any means but my cheap battery cold cranks 300amps
and a standard Mondeo battery cranks at least 450. Im wasnt thinking of getting something too massive, just the right tool for the job!
I would say unless your battery is known to be faulty its not that! just think about it, your engine should start in sub zero temps, even with a
battery that's no fully charged.
You said a couple of time "its just been tuned", well, to be fair the dyno operator who tuned you engine (when warm) for maximum power -
this has nothing at all to do with how it starts - you need to chk the cranking timing settings within megajolt, this WILL NOT EFFECT your dyno
tune!
A zetec will start off a 45AH 200A battery no problem, even if its not fully charged, this is fact ;-) a bigger battery may well fix your problem,
until cold weather!
Cheers Dale www.baileyperformance.co.uk
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Norfolkluegojnr
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 09:10 AM |
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are you using megajolt?
if so, just disconnect the MJ and it'll go into limp home mode. If it starts in LHM, then its the ignition advance.
My mini is a pig to start due to this sometimes.
Or, try removing the battery completely and jumping it. If it starts ok, its the battery. Is all wiring to and from the battery ok? correct grade,
well crimped etc? no issues with impedance?
EDIT:- just saw no MJ. What ignition are you using?
[Edited on 31/10/12 by Norfolkluegojnr]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 31/10/12 at 11:30 AM |
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These are real figures measured by myself a few months back.
In moderate weather a normal modern high compression 1.4K litre engine in a Metro draws a bit over 70 amps from a 45ah type 063 battery at 11
volts.
A 1.8 Rover K engine with a massive type 096 battery draws just under 80 amps at 12 volts.
In sub-zero weather obvious current drawn increases and the voltage the battery can produce drops.
A standard high discharge battery tester draws about 200 amps and to pass the test the battery must produce 9v the size of the battery in both
CCA and AH capacity don't make much difference to the test voltage. If a battery passes this test it will start any engine that is in good
working order.
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is measure at -18c and is defined as the current the battery can produce for 30 seconds without the voltage
dropping below 7.2v
[Edited on 31/10/12 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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lordbenny
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| posted on 2/11/12 at 08:59 PM |
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Hey guess what?
Bought m'self a new battery today (480 cc amp) and looks like my problem has been solved! 
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lordbenny
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| posted on 7/11/12 at 05:20 PM |
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No it hasn't, started first time I tried with the new battery then half an hour later I tried again and NOTHING!
No spark, nothing.
The engine is cranking at a million miles an hour but wont fire up!
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steve m
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| posted on 7/11/12 at 08:15 PM |
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While putting the battery in its holder, you have displaced somthing
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lordbenny
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| posted on 7/11/12 at 08:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by steve m
While putting the battery in its holder, you have displaced something
You reckon?
I must admit I thought I may have done just that but I checked the earths and all other connections but it still wouldn't fire up! Will have
another loo tomorrow.
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Jenko
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 08:36 AM |
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I've not read the entire thread so apologies if this has been said before......Back to basics, compression, timing, spark and fuel. These are
the fundementals of getting the engine started.........
If the engine is now spinning freely with the new battery, and you STILL have no spark then your ignition cct is clearly at fault. First question is
how have you verified there is no spark?. I would look at all spade connections to the coil, your distributor, and earth points.....
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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lordbenny
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:13 AM |
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Going to take off the earths again and file them/ wire brush them...again today!
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Jenko
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| posted on 8/11/12 at 09:27 AM |
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To be fair, if you have done this already, then they are probably ok......Can you check the voltage to the coil?. Use a dvm to do this, should see 12v
when ignition is on...If this is ok, then the fault must be beyond the coil.
MY BLOG - http://westfieldv8.blogspot.co.uk/
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