G.I Ginge
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| posted on 5/3/14 at 08:18 AM |
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ARGH! I need some help please guys. I've been driving the car around quite merrily for the last few weeks and it has performed faultlessly.
However, this morning I went to start the car and couldn't!
I can turn the key in the ignition for two 'clicks', i.e. I can get the battery switched on, but the key will not turn any further to get
the motor started. I've got no idea why this could be! Is it the immobiliser? If so, how do I fix it? I'm totally gutted that this has
happened because it was working perfectly just this weekend. Any advice much appreciated. 
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eddie99
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| posted on 5/3/14 at 09:44 AM |
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Give me a call mate on 07590 804865 and see if I can help diagnose it
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 5/3/14 at 02:56 PM |
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OK, thanks Ed. I tried you this afternoon, but you phone was off. I'm going to go home and have another try- perhaps it was something to do with
the cold... Don't think so, though...
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 05:26 PM |
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Hi again, it's me- the total imbecile that knows nothing about the kit car he's bought! Except that it's awesome, of course 
Anyway, my next ultra-newbie question is can someone please identify the name of the bushing in my picture? I'm pretty sure it's on the
end of the tie rod, but I could just as easily be COMPLETELY wrong about that. All the other bushes on the front suspension seem to be holding up
well, but (as you perhaps see in the picture) these bushes are perishing on the driver and passenger side, so I want to replace them with some poly
bushes. However, those things are expensive and I don't want to spend a tonne of money on the wrong ones!
Any help much appreciated.
Ah. Despite linking up the picture it doesn't seem to want to display. You can right click on the icon and open it in a new tab or just check
out the picture in my photo gallery. There's only two pictures in there!
[Edited on 27/4/14 by G.I Ginge]
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 06:06 PM |
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Anybody?
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me!
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 06:25 PM |
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They're not bushes, they're protective rubber boots covering ball joints. You should be able to buy some replacements pretty cheaply,
you'll probably need a ball joint splitter of some description to get at them though.
The boots should be filled with grease to keep the joint lubricated, if they've been like that for a while you may need new track rod ends- this
will be obvious if they feel like s*** when you get them apart.
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 06:32 PM |
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Thanks for the info. Some more pretty basic questions:
What's a ball joint splitter? What's to stop one from just putting something in there to pry the ball joint apart?
When you say 'feel like s**t'- can you be more specific? Should the track rod end just be smooth and rust free or is there more to is than
that?
Many thanks!
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me!
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 06:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by G.I Ginge
Thanks for the info. Some more pretty basic questions:
What's a ball joint splitter? What's to stop one from just putting something in there to pry the ball joint apart?
When you say 'feel like s**t'- can you be more specific? Should the track rod end just be smooth and rust free or is there more to is than
that?
Many thanks!
There are a few different types, but they all pry the joint apart- see here for three different ones (if the link works)
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?srch=Ball+joint+splitter&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langI
d=-1
The joint you split is a taper fit into the upright, not the ball joint itself (you push the threaded end down through the hole in the upright).
I normally avoid using the fork type as they tend to destroy the boots- not so much of a problem if you are replacing them anyway. Having said that
they are very effective if you get a difficult ball joint- I've had them defeat my scissor type splitter and the fork do the job in a couple of
hits. When you split the joint leave the nut on a few threads- they tend to go with a bang! You can do it with a lever and a hammer, or even just a
couple of hammers, but I've not tried to be honest.
The joint should feel smooth with zero play- any notchiness or movement and they need changing.
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me!
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 06:54 PM |
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Ps the rubber boots are held on with wire clips wound around the rubber. They are like a key ring but thinner gauge wire. Remove these carefully and
reuse when you replace the boots.
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 07:08 PM |
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Thanks again for the sage advice.
The new boots I've ordered come with replacement clips, so no need for me to be careful, I hope. I'm learning as I go here, so delicate
work presents an issue when you've got only the barest inkling of what you're doing! 
I shall certainly look into the splitter and shall inspect the rod ends carefully when I change the boots.
One last question: will I need to get my tracking aligned after I do this work? It seems like probably not, but it never hurts to ask.
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me!
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 07:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by G.I Ginge
Thanks again for the sage advice.
The new boots I've ordered come with replacement clips, so no need for me to be careful, I hope. I'm learning as I go here, so delicate
work presents an issue when you've got only the barest inkling of what you're doing!
I shall certainly look into the splitter and shall inspect the rod ends carefully when I change the boots.
One last question: will I need to get my tracking aligned after I do this work? It seems like probably not, but it never hurts to ask.
If you just change the boots it'll be fine
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 27/4/14 at 07:54 PM |
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Great thanks very much. I hope all shall go well!
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 19/7/14 at 07:49 AM |
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(Sigh) So after my big talk of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' the car IS now broken and I do need to fix it. I'm
having an issue with the battery/ alternator/ wiring. All the slashes are because I have no idea which. I'm hoping I can tell the collective
what I have done so far and you guys can give me some tips about what I can try next:
1. A couple of weeks ago I had to booster start my car. When I went to use it the time after that it would not start and I had to charge the battery.
2. Took car to a mate's house to sort out a small issue. When I tried to start it, battery dead again. Partially charged the battery- enough to
get me home.
3. Test-started the car every day for the next four days. Just starting the car, letting it run for a minute, then turning it off again. All seemed to
be fine.
4. On the fifth day, I took the car to work. Got me there fine, but when I tried to go home, battery was flat again. Jump started the car, but it
still conked out on me on the trip home. TWICE. My wife was not impressed having to come out and jump start me in rush hour.
5. My digi-dash has a voltmeter reading. It was always below 10v during that trip home (which I know is not good) and was slowly dropping as I drove
and dropping sharply if I kept my foot on the accelerator.
All this makes me think it's an alternator issue. The battery held a charge for four days but driving the car is draining the battery and
nothing seems to be filling it back up. Ed also told me that the alternator 'only charged the battery at higher revs' when he sold me the
car which could be an indication that it was already on its way out? Either way, how can I test this for sure? If I need a new alternator what should
I get? The engine is a ford 1.8 blacktop.
Many thanks for any responses- I know this is basic stuff but I'm just a newbie!
[Edited on 19/7/14 by G.I Ginge]
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 19/7/14 at 03:23 PM |
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Bump! Any help would be MUCH appreciated guys... I'd really like to try to find my way towards a definite solution by the end of the weekend.
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maccmike
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| posted on 19/7/14 at 04:23 PM |
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Starting the car 4 days in a row and allowing it to idle wont recharge the battery. Its likely youve drained it more.
Run the engine at a couple thou revs and let us know what the multi meter reads straight off the battery.
Youve probably just got a tired battery.
Invest in a trickle charger.
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 21/7/14 at 07:37 AM |
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Back up one or two steps there please:
1. Multimeter? What are we talking about here? Is that another tool I need to buy?
2. If it's just a 'tired battery', what does that mean and why would charging it with a trickle charger be beneficial?
3. My biggest question is why even a 'tired battery' would have enough juice to start in the morning, then be flat by the time I reached
work 45 minutes later? Surely my alternator should have juiced up my battery enough in that time to start the car again if it were working? Also, why
was the voltage reading steadily dropping whilst I was driving if the problem is the battery? Shouldn't the alternator be taking over the power
supply once the car is running, with the battery just acting as a capacitor?
Many thanks for the reply.
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 21/7/14 at 08:10 AM |
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as said you need to check voltage with multi meter,
this kind of item
link
http://direct.asda.com/george/george-home/draper-digital-multimeter-52320-16-functions/001240572,default,pd.html&cmpid=ppc-_-ad-pla-_-ggle-pla-_-H
ome-_-001240572&cm_mmc=ad-ppc-_-ggle-pla-_-Home-_-001240572&istCompanyId=71f4ae42-94c5-4821-aa58-05eff6da2486&istItemId=axxxiraa&istBi
d=tztx
you can then put it on a setting like 20v to determine what volts you are getting, ie on idle around 14.2 volts and higher with increased rpm,
also is the battery light on? or all connections made as this will also not make connection to alternator and wont charge or see correct voltage?
if you are getting below 12v it will be draining the battery,
if above 12v then its prob a dud battery and as stated above dont do run the car for short periods as drains battery and invest in trickle charger its
better for the battery,
best of luck
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 21/7/14 at 08:36 AM |
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Thanks for the reply. I shall go and get a multimeter today or tomorrow and get back with some readings.
The battery light is a funny one. It always comes on at ignition, no matter how full the battery is, but the light goes straight off as soon as I rev
the car above about 3000 revs. Strangely, though, the light turns off after revving the engine no matter how low on charge my battery is, i.e. the
light switched off 'as usual' on Friday even though I know the battery was critically low because the car cut out, due to lack of
power.
I will try to check the alternator connections today. Is there anything that commonly comes loose that I should look out for? 
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daveb666
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| posted on 21/7/14 at 11:17 AM |
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Read up on what a battery light is/does here:
If, on driving and even idling your battery voltage is not above 13.3/13.4volts then there is a problem with something in the charging circuit which
is likely to be:
1 - Alternator belt has come off
2 - Alternator plug/wires have come off
3 - Alternator bushes are worn (easiest to buy new alternator)
There is the potential for other wiring issues but it's most likely to be one of the above though.
2007bc Photography - Commercial and Wedding Photographer based in West Yorkshire
http://www.2007bc.co.uk / http://www.huddersfieldcommercialphotographer.co.uk
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 21/7/14 at 03:58 PM |
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Thanks for your ideas. The link you tried to post seems to be missing, but I'm sure I can do battery light research on my own.
I've had a quick look at the alternator. Irritatingly, it appears to be in good nick! I was hoping for a simple solution... The belt is
definitely still on- tension seems reasonable. The wiring appears to be as it should be, but I'm going to strip all the tape and stuff off later
to properly inspect it. I'm waiting for the battery to reach full charge before turning it all on again so the meter readings are reliable, but
when I do I shall see whether the alternator seems to be working properly as well.
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G.I Ginge
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| posted on 22/7/14 at 02:22 PM |
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Having done more testing, I am, if anything, more confused. I couldn't buy a multi-meter at my autoparts shop- they were out of stock.
Instead, I bought a Gunson Startcheck device like this:
Gunson Startcheck
as it purported to test the function of the battery and alternator, which is just what I need.
Just to make sure the tester was functional, I tried it on my little Ford fiesta. When started, the 'battery charging 75-100%' light and
'Alternator O.K.' lights both come on straight away. I swapped the battery in the Fiesta with the one from my kit car and it too read as
working fine when installed in the Fiesta, so the issue is certainly in my kit car.
When plugged into my kit car, power off, it reads 'battery charging 75-100%'. When powered on, the reading changes to 'battery
charging 25-75%' and does not improve after a few minutes of revving to different rpms and idling. Neither alternator indicator light comes on
on the Startcheck device, which, the instructions tell me, indicates an alternator issue. I also put the Fiesta battery into the kit car and it read
exactly the same way.
Whilst running at idle, the voltmeter on my car read 11.9, which I know is low. When I revved the car, switched the lights+fog lights on, the
indicators, etc, this number dropped to about 11.2. When I went back to idle and turned the devices off, the reading went back up to 11.8. Does this
mean anything conclusive to anybody?
Where do I go from here? All I've managed to figure out is that I definitely don't need a new battery (I think!). I've tried looking
at the alternator wiring- I found two big brown cables coming out the back, which both go to the positive terminal of my battery, and a small blue
wire, which disappears into the car's internals, presumably the battery light sensor? The big brown wires, it seemed safe to assume, carry the
juice to the battery. They are very solidly attached at both ends and the tape wrapping around the remainder of the wires remains intact and unscuffed
anywhere, indicating that they are still in one piece. Should I check the blue wire? What else can I check?
As I said, the alternator appears to be in good condition. It is clean, the power leads appear to attach well, it spins around quite happily when the
engine is on and makes little discernible noise when functioning (or possibly functioning). WHAT AM I MISSING!? I'm too skint to buy a new
alternator if I don't need one- I've got to find a way to verify the problem for sure before I pay out to fix it.
[Edited on 22/7/14 by G.I Ginge]
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matt5964
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| posted on 22/7/14 at 04:19 PM |
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you wont need a battery if you have confirmed the kit car battery is functioning ok in the fiesta.
must be either wiring issue in kit car or alternator failed.
If you have cheques the wiring both ends then that points to alternator failed.
have you cheque the other electrical circlets on the car to see if there is a loose connection, short or drain there (lights ,starter, ignition,
instruments etc.).
Luego velocity XT 2.0ltr 221.3bhp 178.9lbft
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matt5964
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| posted on 22/7/14 at 09:02 PM |
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Nippon Denso Light Weight Competition Alternator 40 Amp
datsun / nissan alternator built in reg powerfull small unit ideal kit car etc
Luego velocity XT 2.0ltr 221.3bhp 178.9lbft
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MikeR
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| posted on 22/7/14 at 09:22 PM |
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Quick question ......
What did Eddie build the car for?
Its possible to wear out an alternator by continual running at very high revs, the solution is to change the pulley on the alternator so it spins
slower. This means at low revs it doesn't charge the battery and at high revs it charges it normally.
(before someone comments about 'wear out' i'm trying to keep it simple)
Its possible you've got a modified alternator or a generally broken alternator.
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Macbeast
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| posted on 22/7/14 at 10:28 PM |
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In your first post you said the trouble started after you had to boost start the car. I would suspect that fried the alternator.
But, before you replace it, there could be a very heavy-duty fuse ( 80 A or so ) in the feed from the alternator to the battery. I should check that
first.
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I can stop anytime.
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