Dopdog
|
| posted on 27/2/16 at 01:19 PM |
|
|
I am sure we have all been here. Its very simple don't waste untold amounts of money on a conversion. As has already been said if you want a
bike engine sell your car and buy one where someone else has spent all the money.
Theres no need to question this logic its fact, so do one or the other.
there so the next post from you should be striker for sale!
|
|
|
|
|
Andy B
|
| posted on 27/2/16 at 02:43 PM |
|
|
My thoughts having been surrounded by nothing but bike engines for longer than I care to mention
1. I always advise fitting the bike engine that gives the power you want in nearest to its raw state - whilst there is always the odd exception, the
path of tuned engines is littered with expensive tales of woe. Bike engines are highly tuned in stock format, we strain them further in the cars and
tuned motors will inevitably be under even greater stress. If you want turnkey trouble free trackdaying - keep it stock. If you have a number of spare
motors and are prepared to swap and rotate for regular rebuilds it isn't so much of an issue but most don't want that hassle.
2. If going the tuned route I had a rule when racing sidecars which proved itself time and time again - don't buy someone elses tuned engine -
either build or commission one yourself - that way you know exact spec and what bits are in it - this makes rebuilds easier when you know exactly what
was skimmed off the previous head, which gasket was selected etc.
3. in general engines tuned for superbike use are not the best power delivery for cars or sidecars - before I knew better I purchased a championship
winning british superbike engine for my sidecar - loads of horsepower but it was very much a 10 -12 engine - it simply didn't have the low down
grunt to pull from 8000 and mallory hairpin became a clutch slipping exercise at 10,000rpm just to keep it boiling - it wasn't long before we
were back on our old motor and going faster.
4 If dead set on BEC - the ZX10r is not the natural choice - it breathes heavy at WOT and has a very high output shaft which can cause a few issues if
not purpose building a chassis. It also makes good power but the delivery is quite agricultural - not brilliant for balanced throttle power slides
etc. The only Sabre ever built with ZX10r spat 3 motors before the owner converted to blade - most motors went pop after it had systematically blown
all its oil out and then rodded itself (these are issues seen much more on track than road where use of constant WOT is far less)
5 Bear in mind the baffles used for solos are a very different animal to those for cars/ sidecars. I will bet that you will need a proper billet sump
to keep it in one piece on track driven hard along with some serious breather mods and even then a big catch tank.
That said if you go ahead and I can offer any advice or assistance please don't hesitate to give me a bell at the unit
Best regards
Andy
|
|
|
