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Author: Subject: Haynes Roadster Turbo MX5 engine project
CosKev3

posted on 15/3/18 at 05:03 PM Reply With Quote
Jesus you are busy!

I thought you said it would be on the road this year?

What make are your front cycle wings?

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 16/3/18 at 01:53 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Charlie C
I've been busy stripping the car and cutting of the steel floor ready for an ali floor, before and after photos its depressing to see it in its current state.
..]

Man...
Your after pic looks tidy...
You should see my junkyard..

I mean, MY SHED!!






Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....

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Charlie C

posted on 16/3/18 at 07:01 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3

What make are your front cycle wings?



I think they are these ones in carbon

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miskit

posted on 17/3/18 at 12:09 AM Reply With Quote
I have a SC for my MX5 1.8VVT when I get round to it.

On a technical note if you add al "l" (for large, in lower case) to the end of your imgur images it makes them a better size for the forum and stops the need to scroll widthways.
Like this



[Edited on 17/3/18 by miskit]

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Charlie C

posted on 19/3/18 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
Hi all
My turbo manifold and down pipe arrived on Friaday from Dave Fab, it all looks good.

Now I need to get on with the chassis so I can drop my spare and gearbox in to make sure it all lines up.

I finished cutting the steel floor off over the weekend hopefully this is the turning point and I can start putting it back together.












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Charlie C

posted on 3/4/18 at 09:28 AM Reply With Quote
Over the Easter break I did a test set up of the manifold turbo and down pipe it all fits great.
I've nearly finished increasing the chassis triangulation just a few more bits to weld in and I can start repainting the chassis ready for new aluminium panels.





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CosKev3

posted on 3/4/18 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
Fits nicely
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Charlie C

posted on 10/4/18 at 01:20 PM Reply With Quote
I had a costly email from the engine builders yesterday it goes as follows

Hi Charlie

we have hit a few snags with the engine rebuild the engine has been running very rich which has unfortunately been bad enough to put enough fuel into the oil to have damaged the shell bearing nothing horrendous but it does need some new shells both BE And Main.

there is also some severe scorring on one of the cylinder walls which i wouldnt be happy to leave because you are going turbo.Text

The chap isnt in work today so I've got to wiat until tomorrow, it sounds like its going to be expensive. I guess it best to find out now instead of totally wrecking the engine.

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Charlie C

posted on 13/4/18 at 07:29 AM Reply With Quote
I spoke to the chap realy nice guy the result is.

Not running in correctly and a lambda failure has caused blow by on the piston rings putting fuel into the oil knackering the main and big end bearings. Something has got into one of the cyclinders and knacked the bore.

Thier recomendation are
New bearing
Replacement block machining, I'm providing an exchange engine
New rings
He also STRONGLY recommend that they break the engine in on the dyno as its basicly a new build.

So thats all my budget used up for the project so the chances of being on the road this summer are loking slim.

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Charlie C

posted on 19/4/18 at 10:41 AM Reply With Quote
Nearly finish the chassie triangulations and my engine should be ready next week.

The engine has had the following
Head swapped for a standard comperssion as mine had been heavly skimmed.
The block needed a rebore so that been replaced as it was cheaper.
New piston rings
New BE and main bearing
New forged rods.
The crank has been balanced with the new lightweigh flywheel and clutch
1.8 pulley with a cut down with trigger wheel
Sump has had an oil drain added for the turbo
And its being bench run in.

So mostly a replacment engine.

Pics of the chassis in progess below, i'm still waiting for the last of the rollcage part to arrive and then i can get that welded in.
The new ali sheets arrived yesterday the plan is to start rivating those on soon.
I temp fitted the radiator and intercooler at the weekend there not enough space to feed the intercooler from the top so its going in upside down and being fed from under the radiator.






[Edited on 19/4/18 by Charlie C]

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Charlie C

posted on 30/4/18 at 09:07 AM Reply With Quote
Fitted most of the rollcage at the weekend, getting on with jobs until the engine is ready.



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CosKev3

posted on 30/4/18 at 10:26 AM Reply With Quote
Looking good

What are the small brackets you've welded on for wiring loom to attach too?

Shame about the cost of the engine,will be a long summer having it sat in the garage!

Your old cage lives on well the front and rear hoops do,new roof bars and side bars

Description
Description


[Edited on 30/4/18 by CosKev3]

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Charlie C

posted on 30/4/18 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
Hi

I did think about how you’re getting on when i was working on the cage.

The small tabs are for all sorts, I've used them on other projects and I find them neater and more versatile than drilling the chassis
Tabs on the front outer edges and under the engine are for removable panels
On the lower rails brake line holder
Trans tunnel fuel and brake line clamps
top rails electrics and fuel

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CosKev3

posted on 30/4/18 at 11:32 AM Reply With Quote
Yeah look good, where are they from?
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Charlie C

posted on 30/4/18 at 12:12 PM Reply With Quote
They are from ebay eBay Item and are called Autograss chassis panel tabs brackets, the seller is williamsweldcraft
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Charlie C

posted on 8/5/18 at 07:24 AM Reply With Quote
I collected the engine on Friday thanks to Andy and Tracy at Basset Down Balancing it look great.

In preparation of the engine going back in I’ve started to rivet the new floor, front and rear bulk heads. So far 400 rivets in and I’m about halfway through, the rivet are structural 4.8mm and they have all been done by hand which I don’t recommend.




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CosKev3

posted on 8/5/18 at 09:59 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Charlie C
They are from ebay eBay Item and are called Autograss chassis panel tabs brackets, the seller is williamsweldcraft


Cheers ,I like them

Can't believe you've done all those rivets by hand,lunatic!!!

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Charlie C

posted on 17/5/18 at 08:49 AM Reply With Quote
I’ve been busy
Floor, rear bulkhead, front bulk head lower and transmission tunnl riveted in by hand.
I’ve riveted the floor in one piece and cut a hole out for engine and gearbox access, I’ll use the cut out section as a removable cover to keep the underside panelled in except where the sump sticks out.





The engine and gearbox are in I’ve rested the inlet manifold and turbo assembly nothing is tightened up yet. The inlet manifold need the unwanted vacuum and coolant holes seal off.






On the bulk head I’ve cut to access hatches one for the battery and the other for the peddels, I’ve got some A5 size Kevlar cover for no other reason than being cosmetic.

There is only about 40mm between the edge of the turbo and the chassis rail, so not to tight but it might be a struggle to use a bigger turbo than a Garret 25xx





Andy at Basset Down Balancing were great you can see in the picture below the oil return they welded in, the also included a horizontal sump baffle. Also Andy fitted a MK2 1.8 mx5 pulley wheel with the aux belt drive cut off, this is had a timing ring on the back so I’m not stuck using the CAS on the back of the inlet cam. I will also need to use the 1.8 water pump pulley and alternator because the main pulley uses a different belt, ribbed instate of a V belt.





The picture below shows some of the additional triangulation I added, this also help securing the one pieces floor.


Next on the list is fit the steering column, new brack lines and refit the electrics.

[Edited on 17/5/18 by Charlie C]

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Charlie C

posted on 25/6/18 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
I’m still plugging away with boring stuff like wiring and brake/fuel lines, nothing real interesting.

Because I stripped the chassis its given me the opportunity to fit things better neater and with greater access.

I did buy some new Mega Squirt MS3 and MS3X card looms as I could do a neater job on the re-install.

I’ve routed the cable via the foot wells to try and keep the bulk heads as clear as possible and I’ve located the battery to the N/S foot well.

I hope to get new body work in August from Exquinox, so I might get it on the road for the end of summer.

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Charlie C

posted on 27/7/18 at 10:08 AM Reply With Quote
The project is still on I haven’t posted in a while firstly because no one is really that interested and secondly, I been doing jobs that aren’t based around the turbo conversion.
Any way this arrived today to me its car part porn and I might get a little over excited fitting it over the weekend. The radiator is to vw polo dimension with a deeper core and its made for Westfield’s so with a bit of fabricating of new brackets and chassis mounts in should fit nicely.




[Edited on 27/7/18 by Charlie C]

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swanny

posted on 27/7/18 at 10:48 AM Reply With Quote
that does look like a proper bit of kit!
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big_wasa

posted on 27/7/18 at 04:26 PM Reply With Quote
I’ve got my eye on one of them rads for my turbo winter upgrades.
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CosKev3

posted on 27/7/18 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
Pretty sure some westfield owners have coolant temp issues using that set up,due to the end tanks of the intercooler blocking off quite a lot of air flow threw the rad
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Charlie C

posted on 27/7/18 at 08:07 PM Reply With Quote
I've chatted to serveral westfield turbo owners who had simular arrangments but with smaller intercoolers and they didn't mention over heating problems.

Thanks for the heads up i'll keep a close eye on engine temp and ensure i have good ducting from the nose.

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CosKev3

posted on 27/7/18 at 08:46 PM Reply With Quote
If be similar you mean the Radtec set up that is set up so the end tanks of the cooler don't block any air going to the radiator,the end tanks are top and bottom rather than left and right

http://radtec.co.uk/products/445/-Turbo-Engine-Package.htm

[Edited on 27/7/18 by CosKev3]

[Edited on 27/7/18 by CosKev3]

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