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Author: Subject: "official" mid engine locost?
RallyHarry

posted on 31/8/05 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
Yepp, I'll put in a vote for the atom-style of a mid-locost, the 7 only look good in it's original shape IMHO.

Any pictures of elise and atom rear suspension out there ?

Cheers.

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stu

posted on 31/8/05 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
midi ongoing!

hi all! i'm new to the midi idea and i must say as i read through this that a base idea...a place to start...would be great. I'm almost through building BOOK locost with my high school auto students. i'd love to try a midi...but where oh where to start?
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stu

posted on 31/8/05 at 10:21 PM Reply With Quote
that graber is beautiful.

i just took a look at the grabercars website and man that is a lovely car. WELL DONE
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sgraber

posted on 1/9/05 at 02:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stu
i just took a look at the grabercars website and man that is a lovely car. WELL DONE


Thanks! I kinda like it. (thankfully)




That was taken almost 1.5 years ago.., I am almost finished with the bodywork at this stage.





Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/

"Quickness through lightness"

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cymtriks

posted on 4/9/05 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
my design

This is my idea for a locost middy.

First, the styling.

The hump and head rest fairings over the engine disguise the height of the engine bay a little. This view is actually based on my measurements of a 1.6 Ford Focus engine. With luck it would just squeeze in.

[Edited on 4/9/05 by cymtriks] Rescued attachment snapshot2.jpeg
Rescued attachment snapshot2.jpeg

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cymtriks

posted on 4/9/05 at 08:21 AM Reply With Quote
my design again

this is the chassis.

The blue lines show the engine bay and seat back main tubes which are 4x2 - 14g (100mm x 50mm - 2mm wall) which get the chassis around the engine in a nice simple manner.

The FE output indicates twice the book locost chassis stiffness for the chassis as shown.

NOT SHOWN is the boot structure or any local brackets or reinforcements for suspension mounts. Rescued attachment pic2-4x2.JPG
Rescued attachment pic2-4x2.JPG

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cymtriks

posted on 4/9/05 at 08:27 AM Reply With Quote
And again...

And this is a diagram of the suspension.

The hub carriers/uprights are blue
The wishbones and front pushrods are red
The spring-damper units are dark green

The upper wishbones at the rear are mounted on the middles of 1 x 1 16g tubes which will need to be reinforced. Rescued attachment pic2sus.JPG
Rescued attachment pic2sus.JPG

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cymtriks

posted on 4/9/05 at 08:47 AM Reply With Quote
Rear suspension bracing

If only I knew how to put more than one picture in a post...

This is the rear suspension mount bracing that I refered to above.

The extra bits reinforce the rear upper wishbone mounts. Rescued attachment rearsusbracing.JPG
Rescued attachment rearsusbracing.JPG

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chrisg

posted on 4/9/05 at 11:18 AM Reply With Quote
Does anyone else remember the Robin Hood R100?

Shown at Stafford agood few years ago it was a seven with a Metro engine/gearbox behind the seats.

It was quite well proportioned but never got off the ground.

Cheers

Chris

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tadltd

posted on 4/9/05 at 02:41 PM Reply With Quote
Middie concept - packaging

I have the concept drawing for this on another thread ("At last a locost middie..." etc...), but thought it more relevant to post the package sketch here.


package
package


General consenus is to use one of Honda's fine FWD powertrains, as they're universally available, are powerful, emissions friendly, and have lots of tuning parts.

There's a few things in the layout that could add extra power without too much extra expense, e.g. larger airbox being fed by ram air, free flowing exhaust, and obviously lower weight (improves power to weight, rather than power).

Handling would also be improved again through lower weight, but also through careful attention to package layout, such as a central fuel tank running within the passenger compartment between and behind the seats, keeping the weight central and the tank safe. Other stuff, like exhaust and muffler routing, and battery position, both of which can be quite heavy, are also carefully considered. The idea is to try and eliminate some of the inherent tail-heaviness associated with plonking a FWD unit in the back.

[Edited on 4/9/05 by tadltd]





Best Regards,

Steve.
www.turnerautosport.com

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kb58

posted on 5/9/05 at 03:11 AM Reply With Quote
At what f/r ratio do you consider a car to be "tail heavy"?

The fuel tank looks as if it can hold about 50gal!





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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JC

posted on 5/9/05 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
A few thoughts of my own:
RH100 - for sale at the moment on the Robin Hood website - the new owners are having a clear out it would seem!

Atom Inspired Midi - yep, that's what I'm doing! The chassis that I've designed is sufficiently flexible and will accomodate many front engined power trains - I'm using the struts for convenience but will probably use Pro-tech adjustables or similar, rather than the donor ones. The bodywork will be kept to a minimum too to avoid the snag of too much fabrication. Here's my model picture (again)[img]http://locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/a253153-matador mod[1].jpg[/img]

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JC

posted on 5/9/05 at 10:44 AM Reply With Quote
And here's the progress as at a week or two ago! I'm using a Rover 416GTI front end (Honda B16 Engine) and it will bolt in from below using the original 2 crossmembers - the back could easily be adapted for and FWD donor of similar size. Matching front and rear PCDs could be interesting, but I saw in Halfords a set of Multi fit alloys that appeared to cover most bases! [img]http://locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/a253155-DSCN3752a[1].jpg[/img]
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MonkeyHunter

posted on 5/9/05 at 04:33 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JC
And here's the progress as at a week or two ago! I'm using a Rover 416GTI front end (Honda B16 Engine) and it will bolt in from below using the original 2 crossmembers


Im 99.9% sure the Rover doesnt use the B16a, its the d16a9 i think or possibly the d16a8. The B16a1 is the 160-170 BHP Vtec Lump. The engine code is stamped on a flat bit next to the gearbox.. to the left of the pic, you can just make out the B16A1.

Engine
Engine

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Alez

posted on 6/9/05 at 08:50 AM Reply With Quote
Very nice thread.

I think the Sylva R1ot is also worth a mention as for inspiration. It's now available with car power (as well as bike which was the original design), and the bodywork is made of panels (just as the traditional Locost) so plenty of DIY potential.

http://www.sylva.co.uk/riot.htm

Cheers,

Alex



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JC

posted on 6/9/05 at 11:55 AM Reply With Quote
Monkeyhunter,

you are 100% right!!
Pre 1992 is D16, post 92 D16a8
Whatever, its 130bhp Twin Cam and revs lots!

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MonkeyHunter

posted on 6/9/05 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
Yes, I had a honda CRX with one of those in it and they are excelent engines, and can be thrashed relentlesly. I think the ECU in the rover limits the engine to 7K rpm. but the engine will happily rev to 8k like it does in the Honda. If you need an ECU or anything else engine related let me know as im breaking the CRX at the moment.

My project is a Mid engined roadster with the B16a1 in it, turbo charged, and running GSXR throttle bodies, so should be rapid.

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iank

posted on 6/9/05 at 12:25 PM Reply With Quote
JC: Are you still considering selling plans? I've been thinking of building a midi for a while and I like the general 'chunky' chassis you have come up with (not sure about the body but it might grow on me ).

I'm thinking of basing around a zetec (from a 97 on mondeo to get a cable gear change for free) since they seem to be cheap as chips right now.

One concern with using exposed square section tube is how are you planning to get the 2.5mm radius required for SVA?

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JC

posted on 6/9/05 at 06:31 PM Reply With Quote
Iank

The large chassis rails are 50x50, conveniently the edges are correctly radiused. The clearly 'lethal' 25x25 at the front and rear will be covered with panels, exhausts etc!
As for plans, yes I'm still thinking of doing this - as you can see my car has a way to go yet! If you have any dimensions of the Mondeo unit, I'll see if it would fit unmodified. (Width/height of strut tops, depth of engine/suspension package front to rear etc.)

Monkeyhunter

According to my sources (Autocar!) the Rover redline is 7200rpm - you win again!

I don't know what I might need engine wise but if you're breakeng the Civis, by build partner might be interested - let me know what you have and what you want.

thanks for the interest and help everyone!

James

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MonkeyHunter

posted on 7/9/05 at 10:20 AM Reply With Quote
JC, U2U sent about the honda engine & stuff.

Regarding your chassis design have you done any analysis on it, to check how stiff it is?

[Edited on 7/9/05 by MonkeyHunter]

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JC

posted on 8/9/05 at 08:02 AM Reply With Quote
Sorry, no Finite Elephants been near my chassis. I used the old fashioned method - made a scale model and twisted it by hand, moved tubed until it was OK. An experienced engineer pronounced his happiness with it, as did by mate who is helping build mine (then building one for himself) and he's an aircraft engineer - should be OK, but probably not perfection!
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iank

posted on 8/9/05 at 10:16 AM Reply With Quote
You seem to be going pretty quickly with the chassis. Any idea when you will have plans to share/sell?

Glad to hear the chassis members have enough radius (except those razor edged 25mm ones ) I hate some guy with a clipboard to ruin your whole year.

Don't have a donor yet so don't have any accurated measurements (still in the ideas phase), but it looks like the chassis will take pretty much anything transverse with minimal modification.

Zetec measurements were posted on this thread - http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=30892 if that helps.

Good luck with the build.

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JC

posted on 8/9/05 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
How long is a piece of string?

Anyone wanting plans in the near future should probably come over to visit, see what I'm doing (over coffee/beer!) and then decide - after all, I don't know what the end result will be like! If you're still interested then I'll sort something out!

For the less adventurous(!), I'll post regular updates on progress!

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jcduroc

posted on 8/9/05 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
...
Take a Locost, shorten the hood/bonnet, open up the foot wells, put the gas tank up front. Lengthen the area behind the driver, and drop in a FWD drivetrain. You could use all the same Locost construction techniques, even using the same nose, cowl, and fenders.



Picking up your idea this is my very schematic "out-of-the-pencil" interpretation of the Locost-Middy.

The scuttle, nose and front fenders are the same as well as tubes B1, B2 and C; A1[2] and D1[2] could also be the same.

Front chassis section is obviously different (but not much).

My €1.00 contribution.


[Edited on 8/9/05 by jcduroc]
Middy (Just a sketch...)
Middy (Just a sketch...)


[Edited on 8/9/05 by jcduroc]





JCM

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jcduroc

posted on 9/9/05 at 04:17 PM Reply With Quote
Simple packaging exercise with a 1.89m high driver, same Locost chassis middle section, nose and scuttle.


Locost Middy w/ 7 nose & scutt
Locost Middy w/ 7 nose & scutt






JCM

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