Stu16v
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 08:34 PM |
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The baffle mod:
An modified breather *can* cause problems in the standard car as well. Got nowt to do with vacuums, or anything like that. Give it a serious dose of
right hand lock, together with a serious dose of power, and just watch the smoke behind!
When installed in a RWD car, the problem occurs under hard acceleration, rather than hard right hand cornering. The shallow sump that is often
installed makes matters worse. Of course, the problem tends to be worse when it is fitted North/South, as it is usually in a car that is going to be
driven/will accelerate faster than a standard tintop anyway!
Basically, it is sump oil that is forced to the flywheel end of the block getting thrown / breathed out via the pipe by the dipstick. Modifying the
plate allows the oil to re-enter the engine, rather than get channeled out of the breather on the rocker cover. Xflow motors can suffer a similar
problem...
Dont just build it.....make it!
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chriscook
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 08:54 PM |
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Ned,
What cam is it you have? Are you using solid lifters or hydraulic?
Chris
(with a std XE)
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ned
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 10:31 PM |
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chris,
I know nothing about the cam other than the power it has made and that it is a kent profile.
It is a hydraulic profile, i'll probably rev it to 7.5 or 7750, not decided yet. the bottom end will easily take upto 8.5 or 9k on the standard
crank but the lifters will have pumped up and bent the valves long before then..
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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chriscook
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 10:44 PM |
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That's why i was asking...
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 11:06 PM |
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Well you've certainly got what IWANT. I've just phoned about an engine tonight from a m reg calibra 2.0 16v. That should be a redtop
right?
As an asides the BIL hotrod has solid lifters and when the cams were fitted by the engine builders they were fine for a few meetings and then
disaster(sp) a collet came out of the valve spring and you know the rest 
Anyway kent are supposed to have said that for solid lifters you need the different buckets or something (can't quite remember) and they should
have stated that solid lifters were to be used when the cams were ordered. 7500 to 8100 revs are the higher figures I've seen on the tacho tell
tale Although weve now got it geared much better and running in the power /torque band most of the time
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Stu16v
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 11:36 PM |
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quote:
I've just phoned about an engine tonight from a m reg calibra 2.0 16v. That should be a redtop right?
It may not be. Simple to tell - if the spark plug cover is 'L' shaped, it is a redtop. If it is straight, it is an Ecotec.
If it is a redtop, it is likely to be an 'LN' (low noise) version. There are a few subtle differences with this version - the main one
being the plastic cambelt idler pullies. Horrid things - but metal replacements can be obtained. The teeth profile of the cambelt is different. Other
differences include a heavy flywheel (known as the 'pot type' , and a crank of a different (heavier) design.
HTH Stu.
Dont just build it.....make it!
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ned
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| posted on 23/1/06 at 11:37 PM |
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our race engine of a similar spec on a different hydraulic profile runs to 7750 and we have seen as much as 8.2k on downshift. Dave Walker wrote in
ppc that as much as 8500 could be used for short periods of time such as in a hillclimb or sprint car, but i'd never be that brave!
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 12:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Stu16v
The baffle mod:
An modified breather *can* cause problems in the standard car as well. Got nowt to do with vacuums, or anything like that. Give it a serious dose of
right hand lock, together with a serious dose of power, and just watch the smoke behind!
When installed in a RWD car, the problem occurs under hard acceleration, rather than hard right hand cornering. The shallow sump that is often
installed makes matters worse. Of course, the problem tends to be worse when it is fitted North/South, as it is usually in a car that is going to be
driven/will accelerate faster than a standard tintop anyway!
Basically, it is sump oil that is forced to the flywheel end of the block getting thrown / breathed out via the pipe by the dipstick. Modifying the
plate allows the oil to re-enter the engine, rather than get channeled out of the breather on the rocker cover. Xflow motors can suffer a similar
problem...
Ahhhh, now that explanation makes sense, first one that has and I apologise for my misleading passed-on info!!
Thanks!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 12:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ned
our race engine of a similar spec on a different hydraulic profile runs to 7750 and we have seen as much as 8.2k on downshift. Dave Walker wrote in
ppc that as much as 8500 could be used for short periods of time such as in a hillclimb or sprint car, but i'd never be that brave!
Ned.
Maybe worth a call to Mark Baines race engines.
He quoted me £160 for a new set of lightweight solid followers, which I though was pretty good! (one piece not modded hydraulic ones either. Hequoted
a price for the inserts for the hydralics but said he much prefers the full lightweight solids)
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 08:47 AM |
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My friends race engine has a big valve fully ported head waiting to go on and he's choosing another hydraulic profile cam, but doesn't
want to go to solids as he doesn't want to raise the rpm level as all his hewland gears and circuit data would become useless!
I have dealt with mark baines before, I have his verniers, flywheel and rods in my engine...
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 09:54 AM |
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Is that a steel flywheel Ned (I guess so) if so how much if you don't mind me asking?
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 11:00 AM |
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think it was about £80 Nat..
2.6kg or so + ring gear!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/IMG_1445.jpg
[Edited on 24/1/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 11:08 AM |
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mmmmmmmmmm tasty!!!
Can't quite stretch to the full race clutch setup but I am thinking about a lighter flywheel and std clutch, and I don't like machining
std flywheels!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 11:11 AM |
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if you think that ones nice, a friend had one custom made with a smaller ring gear and 5.5" clutch with a jap startermotor with different
gearing. it would start 2-3 times off the tiny redtop battery it ran off between charges (no alternator!)
it weighed nothing and revved like crazy 
maybe i'll get a piccie at the weekend
beware, I've got yellow skin
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 12:35 PM |
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quote:
It may not be. Simple to tell - if the spark plug cover is 'L' shaped, it is a redtop. If it is straight, it is an Ecotec.
Well even if it is an ectoec would it need a cat at this age? also is the block the same as I may be able to get a red top head at a later stage?
sorry about the thread hijack
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ned
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| posted on 24/1/06 at 12:40 PM |
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the ecotec block is the same (or near enough) but the pistons are definately different, the rods and crank may be same/similar to the late xe with the
heavier crank. best to start off with an early xe in most cases. (engine code 20xe as opposed to c20xe if you can)
most ecotecs will require a cat, some early ones may not, not 100% on this.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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