Rob Palin
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 03:31 PM |
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If it's mainly a heat soak problem when you're stationary then it might be worth checking for recirculation of hot air through the
radiator.
It's a common problem in stuff like trucks and taxis(!) where there's little space behind the rad. The fan pulls or pushes flow through
the rad but it then returns through either gaps around the sides or even back through the edges of the rad. You're then using 80+ degree air to
cool the rad and the rate of heat transfer drops significantly.
For a simple check you could sellotape cotton thread or strips of wool to something like half-straightened paperclips and poke them through the vanes
of the rad at the outer edges. Put everything back together, run the fan and see if the tufts go flat against the rad or point forwards out of it
(probably fluttering around a lot though).
If they point forwards you could either use a cowl on the back of the rad (obviously better with a puller-type fan) or have some splitter plates which
divide the back of the fan into thirds so the air going through the fan can only go rearwards and not get pulled back through at the sides. This
second option leaves the rad more efficient when you're using ram-cooling, whereas the cowl will be better for fan-driven flows.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 05:55 PM |
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Simple way of dropping the coolant temperature by as much as 20 degrees for around £15.00 . Add a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter . Does what it says
on the bottle
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Simon
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| posted on 5/5/06 at 11:15 PM |
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Darren,
To get a nice finish, may I suggest what I did to my grille?
Scribe the shape of the holes onto some hardwood - do male and female halves.
Put mesh between the hardwood and tap gently, until you have a formed mesh that can be bonded inside bonnet, but which is flush with the top of the
vents holes.
ATB
Simon
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zetec
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| posted on 6/5/06 at 05:32 PM |
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Caterham rip off.....JPG)
" I only registered to look at the pictures, now I'm stuck with this username for the rest of my life!"
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.jpg)
