procomp
|
| posted on 18/10/06 at 07:19 AM |
|
|
Hi i think Fred must have a fondnes for the birdcage masserati. How ever it dose show just how lacking the mkgt/spire chassis is and would probably be
easier to start from a fresh and do a chassis that has all the right triangulation incorporated into the main frame instead of having to add a load of
extra to a chassis that was wrong in the first place. Would also mean that mounting the engine/gearbox and ancilaries could be done easier if the
chassis was desighned around the parts you have rather than having to compromise at every turn in construction.
cheers matt
|
|
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 18/10/06 at 09:53 AM |
|
|
I have thought about it matt, but as said I don't want to go through the extensive hassle of building from scratch to only end up with a rubbish
suspension set up. Unless someone could measure a well working set up for me, and I can build a jig to work round it perhaps? I'm learnign
about suspension stuff as I go, but I know a bit more about basic chassis stuff at the mo.
Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
|
gttman
|
| posted on 18/10/07 at 12:23 PM |
|
|
Sounds like a really interesting project and I can't wait to hear more about it.
You need to decide what dimensions your car is going to be, will you be using the spire body? is that why you are considering their chasis?
I must admit that I have seriously considered doing a spire myself (flogging the R1 Indy I have) and putting either a Ducai 996 or subaru engine in
(subaru is current favorite for me)... If I did I would have had the chasis from them and basically made an all new one around the wishbones etc.
Like Fred I have deisgned and made my own chasis for my GTT, I however paid someone to design the geometry around the dimensions I wanted. so there
are people out there that can help geometry design and wishbones, if you wanted something similar to an Ultima that would be quite simple to
reproduce.
Here's a pic of my chassis which takes a slightly different direction to what Fred did, but basically I have side box sections as well as the
central tunnel that sigificantly increase stiffness.
I have done some extra triangulation since this shot but it gives you an idea.
Regarding the porsche box the G50's or the old 930 are the affordable ones to go for.
Don't use the 996 Porsche Getrag box though, its weak and can't be repaired for under £2k even to replace syncros.... to press this point
I have a mate who spent £6k on a brand new one from Ultima and in 1500 running in miles it is already broken with only a 450bhp engine. It's not
the first one to have gone either.
The modern Audi boxs are a good choice, 6 speed 2wd ones from the diesel A6's can take the power I don't know the model number though.
[Edited on 18/10/07 by gttman]
Andygtt
Please redefine your limits
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 18/10/07 at 03:23 PM |
|
|
I don't too much extra triangulation is require except in the front bay and the steering rack mounting !
A few diagonals and some sheet steel or thick alloy would stiffen things up a lot. Key is not to go daft adding diagonals, just stiffen each unbraced
square with one diagonal. If you start adding criss-cross diagonals the stiffness doesn't necessarily increase.
The side pods have the potential to add a lot of stiffness.
Main problem I can see is that for that amount of power I would want a longer wheelbase to make it less lethal.
I would also want to make sure it was aerodynamically stable --- a few of the old Group 7 Can-Am cars flipped when the nose lifted at high speed.
[Edited on 18/10/07 by britishtrident]
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
