MikeRJ
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| posted on 6/12/06 at 09:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev a propane eater
I guess that 'h' was deliberatley dropped 
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 6/12/06 at 09:31 PM |
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Mike, if you were really down south, like me, you would still have the air con going in the garage to keep you cool!!!
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MikeR
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 12:43 PM |
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no, you just work to hard / have the welder turned up too high :p
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MikeR
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 05:06 PM |
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Right after costing it up and finding out its going to cost me the best part of 120 quid .......... i'm taking the low cost approach.
brown hardboard (cheaper by factor of 3 than white) stuck to the underside of the garage rafters. Strong (not the cheap stuff) tin foil stuck to
that.
more brown hard board stuck to the top of the rafters for things to sit on. Then the middle bit gets a lining of bubble wrap, top/ bottom and sides
(15 pounds gets you around 50m.)
I've now not a 75mm air trap with reflective side (for heat and light). Should do the trick of improving warmth in the garage.
For the access points i'll have to figure something out. using just one bit of hardboard and bubble wrap.
Any suggestions for the garage door and walls?
Oh, total cost for 15sqm is half the price of using proper insulation at 60 quid (20 quid less if i didn't put the top hardboard on for storage
and 15 quid less if i didn't use the bubble wrap in the gap to stop any air flow).
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spunky
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 06:47 PM |
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Garage door-
If its a steel up and over like mine then just sandwich loft insulation between the door with sheets of hardboard held on with with self tappers.
Walls-
On my external wall I just put chipboard shadow boards up and sandwiched thin polystyrene insulation between them.
Heating is provided by the ballasts of the 27 4' flouro tubes i have in there 
A well lit garage always feels warmer
John
The reckless man may not live as long......
But the cautious man does not live at all.....
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NS Dev
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 07:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Right after costing it up and finding out its going to cost me the best part of 120 quid .......... i'm taking the low cost approach.
brown hardboard (cheaper by factor of 3 than white) stuck to the underside of the garage rafters. Strong (not the cheap stuff) tin foil stuck to
that.
more brown hard board stuck to the top of the rafters for things to sit on. Then the middle bit gets a lining of bubble wrap, top/ bottom and sides
(15 pounds gets you around 50m.)
I've now not a 75mm air trap with reflective side (for heat and light). Should do the trick of improving warmth in the garage.
For the access points i'll have to figure something out. using just one bit of hardboard and bubble wrap.
Any suggestions for the garage door and walls?
Oh, total cost for 15sqm is half the price of using proper insulation at 60 quid (20 quid less if i didn't put the top hardboard on for storage
and 15 quid less if i didn't use the bubble wrap in the gap to stop any air flow).
You really are a cheapskate aren't you Mike!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 07:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev a propane eater
I guess that 'h' was deliberatley dropped
LOL
Meant eater, never even thought of the fact it was heater less the "h"
god I am stupid sometimes!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 10:23 PM |
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Mike how about some polystyrene for the backing on the access panels, we've got some thick stuff at work, could post some up, when you've
sorted the dimension for the brackets
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MikeR
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 11:25 AM |
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Well its all theoretical at the moment as i've just been given a 4 week course of pain killers for my back (could hardly walk this morning)
& had the doctor laughing when i asked "will i be ok to snowboard in Finland in 4 weeks time then".
when he asked why i hadn't been sooner i think the response tickled him,
"didn't want to bother you, thought it would get better".
hmmm....... why is it i'm happy taking my tintop to an expert yet hate taking my far more important and longer term investment (body) to a
doctor!
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James
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 11:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
hmmm....... why is it i'm happy taking my tintop to an expert yet hate taking my far more important and longer term investment (body) to a
doctor!
Because doctors, in the most part, are totally incompetent monkeys who couldn't appropriately diagnose a medical condition if you went in with a
chainsaw, a bleeding stump and a carrier bag containing a suspiciously arm-shaped package!
... actually... bit like a lot of mechanics really...!
Sorry to any Doctors on here (hah!) but after many years of unsatisfactory treatment of myself and friends/family at Doctors I'm a little
disheartened!
Cheers,
Jim
EDIT: Mike, most Doctors have no competence at all with backs... can I highly recomend you get yourself to a registered Osteopath ASAP.
[Edited on 8/12/06 by James]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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MikeR
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 12:35 PM |
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One of my questions was - should i see an osteopath and he said "NO". They manipulate backs and that will undoubtedly leave you in more
pain. One thing i don't understand is the difference between an osteopath and a chiropractor.
Doctors are very good at what they do - general medicine. They are crap at drugs (ask a pharmacist, believe me, i work in pharmacy / drugs, check with
a pharmacist, they do a 4 year degree & have to do continual professional development + are the ones legally responsible if something the doctor
perscribes kills you - nice that isn't it, the person you're brought up to trust can perscribe something that will kill you & its not
his fault if it does) and specialisations.
Think about it, you need your car servicing you can take it to a general garage, you need the manufacturer specific fault code investigating you take
it to the specialist.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 12:59 PM |
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I still cant help thinking that getting rid of drafts first will be a big help.
My garage isdetached, 13 x 29 with pitched roof, single brick walls and fairly warmish with no heater. It has a good quality roller door with brush
strips down the sides and a rubber seal (of sorts) on floor. No real noticable drafts from header plates either.
Would builder foam or loft insulation in the corners help? Maybe just boarding the underneath of the rafters and having a loft hatch would help keep
heat in the main bit. Maybe some rubber strips down side of door might help. If door is really drafty could you fit a curtain type affair in front of
door when you are working.
A few thin layers and good overalls, and perhaps insoles in shoes should keep you warm.
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MikeR
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 01:02 PM |
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the hope is boarding the loft + some insulation will make a big difference (as well as doing the door).
My understanding is half the battle is stopping drafts - hence the bubble wrap, its an insulator & can be used to seal up the gaps in the loft
space.
I'll let you know how i get on.
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 02:33 PM |
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A word of warning if you use space heaters and have a lung condition that requires a blue or purple pump......these two dont go very well together
even with the whole door open.
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MikeR
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 03:55 PM |
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sounds like the voice of experience.
I've got two heaters, an electric fan heater that is mostly useless in the garage (great in a conservatory) and a infra red heater that is great
as long as you're stood about 2 foot from it.
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MikeR
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 01:54 PM |
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ARRGGGHHH - UPGRADITIS
So when the doctor said,
"keep active",
Do you think he meant go to B&Q and buy 16 sheets of hardboard?
Probably not, but i've just done it (and yes the back is now hurting but it is time for more drugs)
Couldn't resist getting a couple more strip lights, junction boxes and some switches. Well you can't have too much light can you - just
means the insulating the garage has got more expensive 
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wilkingj
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| posted on 10/12/06 at 08:37 AM |
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Here is a Locost Answer, plus it burns your old engine oil, and WVO that you can scrounge from your local chip shop.
Waste Oil Burner / Heater
I am building one.
Costs so far:
47kg Propane bottle from recycling centre £5
6" and 3" pipe from scrap yard £10 (about 5 metres of it!) which is more than enough)
The hardest part is finding a cheap bit of 6" daimeter metal for the burner plate.
EIDT:
YES.... I am aware of cutting and welding the propane tank. I will fill it with water before I cut it. Its had the valve out for a week now, and been
purged using the compressor. I am not taking any chances.
[Edited on 10/12/2006 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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907
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| posted on 10/12/06 at 08:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Here is a Locost Answer, plus it burns your old engine oil, and WVO that you can scrounge from your local chip shop.
Waste Oil Burner / Heater
I am building one.
Costs so far:
47kg Propane bottle from recycling centre £5
The hardest part is finding a cheap bit of 6" daimeter metal for the burner plate.
Is this just a flat disc Geoff?
I've just payed £25 + the gas (£54) for one of those for my new cooker. Bugger
Paul G
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wilkingj
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| posted on 10/12/06 at 09:24 AM |
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Paul,
Its a 6" dia x 1" disc, with a 12degree cone in the topside. ie the faster the oil drips, the bigger the puddle (and flame front) the
hotter it gets. ie the cone shaped part helps regulate the pool size and thus the heat. A flat bottomed plate will either go out if too little oil,
and have no controlability.
Thats as I understand it.
Also you dont need to use a propane bottle. They are just a good size and thickness metal, and usually cheap.
Mines not a Calor bottle, so not bothered by cutting it up.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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