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| posted on 21/6/07 at 10:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Russell
If it's a straight cut and the ally is not too thick and hard try deep scoring both sides with a Stanley knife against a straight edge. Then
gently bend back and forth to snap the waste off. This gives a surprisingly neat edge that just needs a minor amount of dressing with abrasive paper
afterwards.
Yours for the cost of a knife blade.
I second this method, works very well and produces lovely straight edges.
Just don't do what I did, i.e. not move you're finger out of the way of the blade and damn near amputate your index fingertip!!!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 25/6/07 at 04:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
I used a drill mounted nibbler for all my aluminium and steel sheet cutting. If you oil the cut line it will last ages and doesn't take too much
controlling. Rub the edge with coarse emery to finish it or use a de burring tool. Get some earmuffs though and watch out for the toenail clippings.
Aviation snips or a good set of Gilbows are alright for shorter cuts but I wouldn't fancy cutting side panels from a 2x1metre sheet with them.
nibblers are great, but as you say the toenail clippings are a menace, they get everywhere, mainly in the most expensive tyres they can find 
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Wadders
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| posted on 25/6/07 at 04:36 PM |
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Youv'e probably had enough advice here already to last a lifetime, and as you say one method won't suit all applications. But for lovely
straight cuts, a table saw fitted with a fine toothed TCT wood blade does the trick, as you can use the rip fence, just remember to wear eye
protection.
Personally i use the jigsaw for 90% of my ally cutting, even 20mm plate cuts ok with WD40.
Al.
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 14/7/07 at 04:48 PM |
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Jigsaw with inslation tape on bottom to stop marking ally, 5mm stainless only 3 years finest blade blunting material invented
tony
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