tim windmill
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 07:20 AM |
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running wasted spark driving coils from ecu, i have rpm signal, spark and fuel but fuel is not reaching the plugs, my thought is now that when it is
all put together i could be getting a voltage drop that is stopping the injectors from opening. Having said that i have got battery + jump leads onto
another vehicle and it still does not make a difference and getting a good rpm signal and it sounds like the injectors are opening
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tim windmill
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 07:21 AM |
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next plan of action torch+match im going to make one hell of a spark
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jacko
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 06:43 PM |
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Dump the FI and fit bike carbs  do you need a manifold making
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 07:32 PM |
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Keep the faith and Check EVERYTHING mechanical.
My really poor running and poor responce from trying to tune it was No4 Spark plug breaking down under load, sparked fine on the manifold out of the
car etc. They were bloody new n'all!
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darrens
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 09:09 PM |
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I ain't that far away from thee if you want a hand one day.
It would take a seriously low battery to stop the injectors opening, I've had mine barely turning over and it still fired.
You could try running the injector test mode to see if you can here the pressure release from the fuel rail.
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andrenel
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 09:37 PM |
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sounds very similar to my teething problems
Does the revcounter in megasquirt detect that the engine is turning when you try and start. if not the the squirt does not know the engins is
turning,
I had to adjust the two blue pots on the squirt untill it recognised the crank sensor, fired up shortly after that sensor
I will dig for an earlier post I did on the subject
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andrenel
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 09:40 PM |
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Partial success
It was traced to the trim pots inside the Megasquirt. a pair of blue pots on the PCB, each with a wheel like a screw head.
I needed to adjust the VR sensitivity.
I now have spark and a RPM reading in megatune, don’t seem to be getting any fuel through to the injectors though, I suspect the pressure in fuel line
as the problem, as I am using the stock pump from my donor ( Scorpio)
Here's an article on how to adjust the trim pots:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 5/9/07 at 09:42 PM |
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Injector test mode is only on MS2, and it doesn't sound like that's what he's running. Can you try cranking the engine for a few
seconds with everything on the engine, and then whip off the manifold to see if there's any fuel in the ports/manifold?
My first guess if they're not firing when on the engine would be a broken wire inside the insulation. How are the injectors connected to +12v
and the MS injector drivers? Do you have a single 12v feed for all the injectors, and/or are you splitting the injectors across the two available
banks on MS? If all four injectors aren't firing then look for the common link between them, probably the +12v.
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tim windmill
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| posted on 6/9/07 at 07:34 AM |
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injectors are wired with a common 12 v fed to all injectors and then are wired in banks of 2. 1+2 cylinders and 3+4 .
if i continually turn hte ignition on and ff for approx 20 times i get the prime pulse and a squirt each time eventually the car will pop as
sufficient fuel to the plugs. if this happens does this rule out the vr sensor as it is definitley getting a spark. putting a multimeter across the
injectors when cranking i do get a flicker on the meter this i pressume is showing that the injectors are opening. istill thin it is fuel delivery
related rathe than the ecu. The fuel flowing through the rail is really load and it sounds as though the pump is to efficient for the regulatorbut i
cant understand is if it delivers fuel off the car why it wont when on the car, i am going to take of the mnifold again today for further
investigation.
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 6/9/07 at 07:48 AM |
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There aren't any tight bends in the fuel lines when the rail is mounted to the engine are there? A kink might make some noise when the fuel pump
is trying to force fuel through it, and could disappear when the rail is moved.
Sorry if i'm stating the bleeding obvious, these things aren't the easiest to troubleshoot when you're not sat in front of them 
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Micael
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| posted on 6/9/07 at 06:39 PM |
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This is a longshot
Have you checked the fuel lines? The regulator is supposed to sit after the fuel rail on the return line. Otherwise you will not get any fuel
pressure.
Micael Moose Åman
Petrolhead and all around nice guy
"Don't leave the duck there. It's totally irresponsible. Put it on the swing, it'll have much more fun." //Sleep Talkin Man Dec 23
2009
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tim windmill
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| posted on 7/9/07 at 02:18 PM |
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latest update, i have the manifold off the car with the fuel rail and injectors attached crank the engine and fuel squirts(so far so good) still with
the inlet removed i can see the valves opening and closing as they should. I can also see a spark from the plugs on 1 + 4 cylinders but nothing from 2
+ 3. when i remove the plugs from the block and reduce the load i get a good spark on all 4 cylinders when cranking .
it appears that a few extra rpm is required to keep the spark on all cylinders,
i have jump leads to the battery from my tintop and have 13.7 volts static and when cranking it drops to just under 12 v but the engine does not seem
to be struggling to turn over but i loose the spark on cylinders 2 +3 . checked the coil pack and it appears to be ok. changed the starter motor to
see if this pulling the voltage down and it is just the same. could these symptoms be caused by incorrect "trim pot settings" on the vr
sensor as mentioned previously in an earlier post or do i just need more voltage to get the engine to turn over quicker
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 7/9/07 at 03:02 PM |
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could be the VR sensor Is it in a sheilded cable?? grounded at the squirt?
Edited to say that with all the plugs out the engine will be cranking over quicker and this may also help with the vr signal. Is the clearance gap on
the flywheel ok?? I know scoobylav had a lot of vr problems on his zetec
[Edited on 7/9/07 by omega 24 v6]
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 7/9/07 at 08:47 PM |
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Just double checked..
Plugs 2 and 3 share the same physical side of coil... and also the same trigger wire from Megasquirt and thus also the same coil driver inside the
megasquirt.
I've had it this week where a plug will spark outside the car but not under pressure inside the engine... maybe similar
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 7/9/07 at 10:01 PM |
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quote:
Plugs 2 and 3 share the same physical side of coil... and also the same trigger wire from Megasquirt and thus also the same coil driver inside the
megasquirt.
If your thinking the wiring/megasquirt coil drivers are at fault why not swap the two wires at the coil and see if the problem transfers to plugs 1
and 4?
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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tim windmill
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| posted on 8/9/07 at 06:56 AM |
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have tried swapping the wires on the coil and it does then tranfer the problem to 1+4 so it looks like it could be something to do with the coil
driver. It all appears to work fine until put under load, you said you had the same symptoms earlier this week how did you rectify it?
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MkIndy7
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| posted on 8/9/07 at 10:47 AM |
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Mine was one of the spark plugs themselfes that wouldn't fire under load.
It would spark like a good'en resting on the manifold (the usual test), but put it back in the engine and it just wouldn't fire.
So similar to yours, something when its put under load isisn't working, if it all works off the car.
If the problem transfers over then it sounds like its the Coil driver inside Megasquirt or the wireing imbetween.
Maybe worth opening up the megasquirt and having a smell, then looking for any dry joints or damaged components. From what I can make out the coil
drivers are connected to the case itself to use as a heat sink.
It sounds like your getting closer, hang on in there!
[Edited on 8/9/07 by MkIndy7]
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