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Author: Subject: Electric flow control?
nitram38

posted on 18/12/07 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
I tried it with a couple of cheap housings from my local motor factors and that is why I had to go the custom route.
The thermostat needs clearance for water flow.

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RazMan

posted on 18/12/07 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
I picked up my in line stat from CBS today - it's actually black and made by Gates. Just need a 32mm>15mm reducer for the heater connection now and I'm sorted. I might have a go at capping the bypass outlet and see what happens first - there might not be enough flow to open the stat though.

I just spent 4 hours in the Dartford tunnel traffic tonight That's the first time that my rad fan has kicked in for ages! At least my feet where warm though





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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RazMan

posted on 19/12/07 at 03:19 PM Reply With Quote
I might have to re-think a little now. I fitted the in-line stat (with a bung in the bypass outlet) and it blew a hose off before getting hot so it must be boiling inside the engine - looks like I will definitely need the bleed to get enough flow to the stat when cold.

After the stat opens the engine seems to run about 10 degrees hotter for some reason (95 degrees) and seems to fluctuate quite a bit although that might be down to an airlock. I will try tweaking the water pump controller and see if I can bring the temp down a few degrees when it settles down.

A quick question - What if I take a 3mm hose from the bypass outlet to the top of my header tank? The stat is the highest part of the cooling system (apart from the engine) so it should self bleed the system and give enough flow when cold to activate the stat.

Is that right or have I missed something?


[Edited on 19-12-07 by RazMan]





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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nitram38

posted on 19/12/07 at 04:06 PM Reply With Quote
The 3mm pipe is a good idea.
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RazMan

posted on 19/12/07 at 05:22 PM Reply With Quote
Just tried it - drilled and tapped the bung and fitted an old master cylinder fitting to connect a hose from the bung to the header tank.

Temps have now stabilised at around 90 degrees, warmup is much quicker and my heater works! I suspect air was still in the system and the new hose got rid of it.

It will be interesting to see how the car now behaves on a frosty morning





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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