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Author: Subject: St170 fuel injection on a budget project.
big_wasa

posted on 6/6/13 at 08:59 PM Reply With Quote
More progress, I seem to be doing loads but it doesn't look like much.

I've cut a dust guard out of 1.5mm steel. Fitted the flywheel and a new clutch.






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Lingy

posted on 20/6/13 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
Nice progress ,Have you tested the loom on the motor?
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big_wasa

posted on 20/6/13 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
Tested yes, its never been an issue "will it run". The challenge has always been if I can run it with out it being in limp home mode.

I haven't got anything to put it in so I have had to make another test bed. I really should learn to keep one as even when I beg, borrow and scrounging bits, the test bed is costing cash.

So its mounted to a frame. I am waiting on bits for the cooling system but ive made a start on the lower rail. 35mm out of the pump and the rad is 32mm. Ive rolled the bead either end and added the two spurs for the bypass and header tank.

I need to make real progress so I can get it finished and sell it on.





[Edited on 20/6/13 by big_wasa]

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Lingy

posted on 20/6/13 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
Sell it on ?

I Look forward to seeing your results

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big_wasa

posted on 20/6/13 at 08:15 PM Reply With Quote
Yep I haven't got anything to put it in at the moment.

I need to wind up all my projects as I am looking to move house. Who knows I may even get a double garage out of the job

If I can get the st to run as it should then I can get the RS to run so budget Rs could be next.

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barraw

posted on 20/6/13 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
I've got a tuned ST170 in my westfield, with reworked head, Jenvey throttle bodies, uprated camshafts (but I don't know which), offloaded electric water pump, remote oil cooler and oil filter, Denso lightweight alternator and Omex 600 ignition. The loom is purely Omex.

I've just redone all the cooling system because it was over cooling last year.

I can't claim credit for it, as I bought the car with the engine in it, but it goes like stink :-) It's quicker than a Caterham R400 down the straights at Cadwell, but not as quick as a R500.

I'm not far from you in Doncaster if you want a ride for inspiration - when the rain stops

[Edited on 20/6/13 by barraw]

[Edited on 20/6/13 by barraw]

[Edited on 20/6/13 by barraw]

NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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big_wasa

posted on 3/7/13 at 08:58 PM Reply With Quote
That's the electrics finished. I just need to finish the exhaust so I can put the two o2 sensors in it and add a fuel tank.






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big_wasa

posted on 4/7/13 at 06:48 PM Reply With Quote
First start

Still need to do the exhaust and a few other bits.



[Edited on 4/7/13 by big_wasa]

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Lingy

posted on 4/7/13 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
Excellent
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ttbiker

posted on 4/7/13 at 08:39 PM Reply With Quote
Good work i'm fitting an ST170 engine into an MGB GT i've got all the standard ST harness plus the key & ecu any information would be greatly appreciated.
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Digimon

posted on 5/7/13 at 11:11 AM Reply With Quote
That's brilliant, nice work
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big_wasa

posted on 5/7/13 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
All in good time. I need to test the engine for longer to make sure there is no sensor faults or errors that trigger a limp home situation making this a waste of time.

The problem you will have in the mgb is the inlet manifold. This has a dsi (dual stage inlet ) if the motor is not connected it gives a cel code. There maybe away around this but that will give less low down torque that this engine is known for.

If you was making a locost I think you could make it fit by having the steering linkage above the drivers feet, mk style and moving the cross brace to the passenger side.


quote:
Originally posted by ttbiker
Good work i'm fitting an ST170 engine into an MGB GT i've got all the standard ST harness plus the key & ecu any information would be greatly appreciated.

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ttbiker

posted on 6/7/13 at 05:54 PM Reply With Quote
I've got the DSI motor(IMRC as Ford calls it) and the fuel pump + the ecu to control the pump so i should have everything i need, I'm just lacking in electrical knowledge!
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big_wasa

posted on 6/7/13 at 08:51 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, the proper name for the dsi motor is the Imrc.

So would you be able to do it your self with ecu pin outs and other key info or are you looking for something you can plug in and add power ?

With the latter there is already a queue and I haven't finished this one.

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ttbiker

posted on 7/7/13 at 10:25 AM Reply With Quote
I should be able to do it myself(or talk nicely to one of the electronic's guy's at work!)
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ttbiker

posted on 2/8/13 at 02:07 PM Reply With Quote
How's the testing going have any fault codes shown up?
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big_wasa

posted on 2/8/13 at 03:30 PM Reply With Quote
Just one up to yet to say the Imrc motor is stuck open. I will be taking that to bits for the "mod".

I have now got an oil leak after trimming the sump a little more for a slimmer starter motor so that needs re sealing.


Hope to post more up over the weekend.

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big_wasa

posted on 4/8/13 at 03:55 PM Reply With Quote
Its been a busy day in the garage and ive loved it.

So ive knocked up a 7 style exhaust and added both o2 sensors.

Time for testing.


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big_wasa

posted on 4/8/13 at 04:31 PM Reply With Quote
So Testing has started

The ignition panel has a toggle switch as the ignition run. Its illuminated to show power. The red lamp is for the alternator charge light and the back light on the starter button is for the low oil pressure warning light.

So turn the power on and the Pats indicator stops flashing and stays on solid for a couple of seconds before going out. The immobilizer is happy and disarmed. The engine can now be started.

A quick press of the button and she fires into life. The oil pressure light and alternator charge light go out.

The idle is a little high but settles down to an expected 880 ish rpm. Note the engine isn't keen on no air filter.



So its been running now for around 3/4 of an hour and is running great. Fan is cutting in at 101 deg and of again at 95 deg. Its gone through a couple of litres of unleaded and is still showing no Cel codes. Its happy running with out the dash.



Jobs to do.

Get some more petrol and run it for longer.

Buy some proper sealant for the sump.

Dress the engine.

And last of all find a new home for it.

Then starts the paper work

[Edited on 4/8/13 by big_wasa]

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ttbiker

posted on 6/8/13 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
Good work i bet your well chuffed! just a couple of questions what fuel pump have you used & whats that to the left of the fuel pump ecu?
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daveb666

posted on 6/8/13 at 11:42 AM Reply With Quote
price warren?
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big_wasa

posted on 6/8/13 at 11:59 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
price warren?


Really ???? Tb's and programable ecu will give you the same out put as this and if you port the head on yours and sling some cams at it with a bigger exhaust it will go to 200bhp But the st will go there with out the port and cams but not on this ecu.

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big_wasa

posted on 6/8/13 at 12:15 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ttbiker
Good work i bet your well chuffed! just a couple of questions what fuel pump have you used & whats that to the left of the fuel pump ecu?



The fuel pump is a generic bosch high presure external pump. Same style as fitted to loads of 1990> cars What you cant see is a little check valve on the back.

The st uses a returnless fuel rail so the box to the left of the pump is the fuel pump driver modual. There is a fuel presure sensor in the the fuel rail that tells the ecu the presure. The ecu then tells the pump modual to run the pump or not.

The silver box is the Inlet manifold runner control modual and it moves the trumpets in the manifold to make the manifold longer or shorter to give the best torque over a wide rev range.

There is a barametric sensor near the obd2 plug.

The engine also has the vvt on the inlet valves. This is for emisions purposes and the ecu can control the valve over lap to stop unburnt fuel going out the exhaust. Hence the st170 doesnt have any egr extras.

There would be an evap canister purge valve but ive replaced this with a dumby load.

Very clever engine and a cheap way of getting "upto" 170 bhp from a ford engine.

The time is coming where kitcars wont be able to just pass a smoke test. They will have to pass simlar tests to tintops. Just look at what the eu is upto. This set up would pass an Iva with a cat fitted.

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big_wasa

posted on 12/8/13 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
Will be doing a for sale add this week end.


For me to spend a lot of time doing a write up like the zetec one I did. I would need more interest than that got.



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ttbiker

posted on 13/8/13 at 05:07 PM Reply With Quote
Thats a shame i was looking foward to the write up
will you still be able to supply me some information so i can get a loom built or will you be selling your loom separately?

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