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Author: Subject: mighty twincharged kitten
froggy

posted on 27/7/12 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
back on the road and first impressions of the turbone are pretty good , spool starts at 3300rpm and im on base boost of 1 bar at 4000rpm .as usual there are a couple of things i want to change namely the box for a 4.05 diff now i dont have the supercharger,s help . that brings the top speed down to the 140mph mark but will make a big difference to response and keeping it on boost changing gear .








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froggy

posted on 23/8/12 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
someone sent me a link to this vid at bedford last saturday ,skip to 10.30-14.00
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2yyJBmV7cI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

and this one 4.30-5.30
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2yyJBmV7cI&feature=youtube_gdata_player





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Minicooper

posted on 24/8/12 at 11:47 AM Reply With Quote
Froggy,
What wheelbase did you end up with? I'm looking into stretching the wheelbase on my mini to help with the mid engined handling, I have a six link dedion on the rear and double wishbone on the front, at the moment my wheelbase is about 85". I have an 4" extended front on and have moved the front wheels 3" further forward, I have also moved the rear wheels about 2"back, but I'm looking into the possibility of angling the complete rear panel and adding a further 1.5~2" to the wheelbase, as long as it looks right I will probably do that

How is your car handling? it looks from the videos to be very stable

Cheers
David

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froggy

posted on 24/8/12 at 12:07 PM Reply With Quote
90" wheelbase 56" track . At present I'm running a front anti roll bar and fairly soft springs at the front . We were hitting over 140 on the straights and it felt very solid but I'm running a lot of caster and epas power steering with a bit of toe in . I think if I get the body roll sorted on the spring rate it would be more like the lotus and vx cars with awesome cornering right up to the point where they let go . Didn't spin once with the slow in fast out approach just need to dial in more rear roll stiffness to carry more corner speed . The de dion set up feels fine with no squirming under power but I was running open diff . Biggest change for me was going to epas post column so u can run 12deg caster and get proper self centering coming out of the tighter bends so I can hang the arse out and let the lock off by loosening the grip on the wheel rather than manually correcting it .





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froggy

posted on 15/12/12 at 08:53 PM Reply With Quote
Been a while but the car is starting to come together again . I've always used bone stock engines and suffered a few failures pushing 500+ hp so time had come to build a stronger motor so gone all out with the 234

Lightened flywheel
0.5 rebore with wossner pistons
Pec rods 200g lighter than stock
Balance shaft delete
B202 cams
Ported and re faced head
Baffled sump with 1 litre side wing and trap door
4.05 box with quaife atb
Manifolds port matched to head
Turbosmart 45mm ext gate with 1bar spring .
Genuine Saab arp head stud kit
Pwr 6x5 barrel chargecooler









On the handling side I looked at various ways of changing the rear end to a trailing arm design but I decided to give the de dion another shot with a different way of locating the axle . I found an A frame design used by Dax on their de dion cobra and copied that but with the frame under the axle . This means I could cut the bottom half of the chassis off but the gearbox mount had to re made to hang off the upper part of the chassis .


A vauxhall rose bush at the front to allow the frame to pivot and the outer links are mondeo front wishbone bushes to flex a bit . The other mod is a rear roll bar from my old 9k which just happens to be a good shape to fit so will get used again .

The weight saved with all the butchery and the smaller charge cooler is 45kg so worth the effort .
The water meth kit is coming off as its going to be much more useful on the hot rod having a 10-1 comp ratio and turbos and the kit has taken another 25 kg off the car so it should be under 850kg wet .

Power wise I think 480 is a nice number but we shall pull all the stops out on the dyno to see how much this holset can pump out .

[Edited on 15/12/12 by froggy]





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mark chandler

posted on 15/12/12 at 11:33 PM Reply With Quote
Vauxhall rose bush, that's a lot of trust.

Would something more commercial like the ball joint on the A frame of a classic range rover not be better? You could cut the taper out of a scrap axle and let into your frame.

Fantastic car, wish I had your skill

[Edited on 15/12/12 by mark chandler]

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CNHSS1

posted on 16/12/12 at 11:03 AM Reply With Quote
totam madness, love it!
where did you buy the PWR chargecooler, this country or US?





"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen

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MikeRJ

posted on 16/12/12 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
Are you going to remove the lower trailing arms? I think you may get some binding if you leave them with the A frame attached.

The original Lotus 7 had the same A frame design for rear axle location (with upper trailing arms).

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froggy

posted on 16/12/12 at 12:57 PM Reply With Quote
This is my last try with the de dion and i can't feel any bind issues with the lower arms in place . Martin at Mk engineering has some ideas for a new rear end set up for next year so it isn't a great loss if this doesn't work . I'm hoping to come down on the spring rate once the anti roll bar is on and remove the front bar altogether .

The pwr cooler was bought here , the size isn't a popular one so got it at a fair price compared to shipping one from the us .





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Minicooper

posted on 16/12/12 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by froggy
This is my last try with the de dion and i can't feel any bind issues with the lower arms in place . Martin at Mk engineering has some ideas for a new rear end set up for next year so it isn't a great loss if this doesn't work . I'm hoping to come down on the spring rate once the anti roll bar is on and remove the front bar altogether .

The pwr cooler was bought here , the size isn't a popular one so got it at a fair price compared to shipping one from the us .


What's the problem with the de dion? I'm not changing mine now but I'm very interested in your particular problem/s

Cheers
David

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froggy

posted on 16/12/12 at 07:10 PM Reply With Quote
Nothing wrong other than my frame design meant it needed a load of extra frame work to provide a solid location for the panhard rod . I had it pretty rigid but it made it hard to get the engine /box out . The a frame means the lot will come out underneath in one lump .



[Edited on 17/12/12 by froggy]





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froggy

posted on 3/1/13 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
Ring gapping tonight with a homemade though not by me tool to get a perfect match

The bore size is spot on but the top ring had only a 9 thou gap which should be 20thou so quite a bit needs taking off . I'm going a thou over the spec going on gaps for other big boost engines just to be on the safe side .

Moved the pc from behind the passenger seat as it killed two hard drives and picked up a solid state drive so it should be sorted , never had any issue with the car pc in the 9000 but it was well cushioned and the drive lay flat rather than upright which probably didn't help .


Interior out as well to make the insulation quilt for the bulkhead and get some sort of flooring in to make it a bit more civilised inside






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froggy

posted on 8/1/13 at 11:27 PM Reply With Quote

Best get a pic of this touch wood I won't see this for a long time .





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T66

posted on 9/1/13 at 06:10 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by froggy
Ring gapping tonight with a homemade though not by me tool to get a perfect match

The bore size is spot on but the top ring had only a 9 thou gap which should be 20thou so quite a bit needs taking off . I'm going a thou over the spec going on gaps for other big boost engines just to be on the safe side .

Moved the pc from behind the passenger seat as it killed two hard drives and picked up a solid state drive so it should be sorted , never had any issue with the car pc in the 9000 but it was well cushioned and the drive lay flat rather than upright which probably didn't help .


Interior out as well to make the insulation quilt for the bulkhead and get some sort of flooring in to make it a bit more civilised inside





Like your work Froggy, Its looking good.





Amuses me when we sometimes use the word "civilised" when describing our cars....






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froggy

posted on 9/1/13 at 08:29 AM Reply With Quote
It's getting better , I don't need the intercom any more and once the cabin is soundproofed I might even get the wife to come for a spin





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Norfolkluegojnr

posted on 9/1/13 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by froggy

Best get a pic of this touch wood I won't see this for a long time .


WOW!

That's a clean head. Don't think anything in my car looked that good from the factory......

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D Beddows

posted on 9/1/13 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
If this isn't about THE best car on here then I don't know what is tbh Totally ridiculous on many levels but absolutely brilliantly done!
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froggy

posted on 9/1/13 at 01:41 PM Reply With Quote
Bit more weight loss , should be just under 20kg compared to the old compomotive rally wheels


Lots of Internet discussion regarding what lubricant and torque settings to use in these arp studs but il stick with the sellers advise as he,s built engines running a lot more power than I'm making






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surrey_100e

posted on 10/1/13 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
just read all the pages, keep up the good work!
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Saabocus

posted on 14/1/13 at 12:51 PM Reply With Quote
This is a great bit of work and a fantastic post, also the inspiration to become part of this community, thanks for sharing and taking the time to post all your work.
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froggy

posted on 14/1/13 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
These engines are going into all kinds of motors now . I'm doing stuff for a mk2 escort , fc3 rx7 and an rx8 at the moment .





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Minicooper

posted on 15/1/13 at 02:50 PM Reply With Quote
Froggy,
Quick question for you, how wide is the saab engine/gearbox combination, the 2 litre saab engine and if it makes any difference the 2.3 motor your now using. The distance from the engine pully to the gearbox end, you don't need to include engine mounts and the like as long as they are removable.

The more I look at the overall cost of fitting a turbo bike engine with the chain drive and some sort of reverse the more I like the look of the saab turbo motor and it's potential for tuning. For the price of the chain diff and reverse I could easily get a whole saab turbo and superchip it, makes it a no brainer really.

Do you know if any of the saab turbos came with a lsd? and also the approx overall weight of the complete saab engine/gearbox/ancillaries unit

That's more than one quick question I know

Cheers
David

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froggy

posted on 15/1/13 at 06:34 PM Reply With Quote
End to end is 910mm and the gearbox mount is at the bottom of the gearbox as it had two lower mounts on the block and an upper torque steady on the pulley end . I use the top mount to hang the motor and the lower mount on the turbo side with no issues . 2.0 and 2.3 are physically the same but the 2.3 has the 240mm clutch which is necessary when going towards 300hp . The 2.3 is limited to 7000rpm when pushed but the 2.0 is happier when revving hard .

I'm getting used to mine now and I always knew that having a high cog and fairly small footprint it was never going to be a super nimble car but it holds its own in a straight line against pretty much anything I've come up against bar a 7 litre ultima .

Bang for buck I would buy a 95- 9000 aero so you have the complete donor that is set up to make 280hp with a couple of tweaks like a 3" downpipe and 3 bar map sensor . The downside is that it comes with a 3.6 diff and hilarious gearing . I had a quaife diff in a 3.6 box and running a big turbo I was dropping out of boost a little unless I revved it really hard however that was coupled to a 2.0 engine .

Weight wise I'm not sure but I would say its 350 kg


I suppose its what you want to use it for , for track days a bike engine would no doubt be a more nimble choice but all that chain guff gets old fast and the number of bike engined minis sold with a couple of thousand miles on them speaks volumes to me .


Tuning wise there are lots of options , using stock hardware there are good stage maps that you can do yourself with a £40 USB/bdm tool and the free t5 suite software on the Trionic tuning forum or ecu project .





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froggy

posted on 9/2/13 at 06:15 PM Reply With Quote

It's ready to go back in at last !!
Had a few issues getting the pistons back in but a decent compressor sorted it . Pulling the head down with the stud kit was a lot harder than using stretch bolts so there is a fair improvement in head clamping over the stretch bolts . Got some more bits to do once its in mainly re plumbing the new chargecooler and a couple of wiring mods to the boost switch then run in and dyno





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Minicooper

posted on 16/3/13 at 01:16 PM Reply With Quote
Hello Froggy,
I'm sorry to bother you again, I've have set the rear wheels where they look right and also look right compared too the front of the mini, this gives me a measurement of 54" from one face of the brake disc to the other on the de dion.

How does 54" compare to the width of your de dion? I don't really want to go much wider but the driveshafts need to be a sensible length

Cheers
David

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