big_wasa
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| posted on 5/7/18 at 07:43 PM |
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I don’t know if I asked what your putting it in ? This will affect if any wires are shared.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 5/7/18 at 09:43 PM |
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It is into an mgb gt. I have kept to the st loom as much as possible using the mg loom for lights, wipers, heater fan,and indicators. The ignition
switch to supply switched live to the st ecu relay. A permanent live comes from the mg loom for those bits that need it like keep alive memory. I
think I’m just going to have to trace each sensor wire back to the loo ecu and make sure they don’t just go nowhere as with the others I found.
Thanks.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 6/7/18 at 05:14 AM |
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Ha now we are getting some where.
If your not using stuff like the St170 dash, abs and so on the signals don't need to be shared.
The oem had two layers of security. Pats ( passive anti theft ) the immobilizer. And the active anti theft which is the alarm done by the bcu body
control unit.
I don't get into that much but on earlier set ups they looped vairious lives and earths through it as part of the security system.
I would strip the loom down.
[Edited on 6/7/18 by big_wasa]
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Pigsy
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| posted on 6/7/18 at 07:28 AM |
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Im using as much original mg as possible like the dash, switches etc. The ecu has its own power source from the ignition key. The starter setup is
separate as well with its own supply to the starter relay and the racing type push button and switch setup as you did in your video (ok, hands up, Im
a copy cat). yet, in spite of this, the ecu managed to supply an influence over fuel pump as it was originally wired. Somehow it back fed current
from the ecu. Its now directly to the ecu and working.
So Im stripping this evening!
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Pigsy
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| posted on 6/7/18 at 11:02 PM |
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Does the smart charge on the alternator need to be connected for the ecu to work? Just needs power to the red wire, but I need a silver calcium
battery I believe. Will it run on a standard lead acid battery? I know it pokes +/- 14.5 volts and probably won't be a good idea. What does
everyone else do?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 7/7/18 at 12:02 PM |
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It's meant to be a silver calcium battery to handle the higher voltage but stick your head under an old ford and you will be hard pushed to
find one due to cost.
You don't need any connection to the alternator for it to charge. Unlike a traditional alternator it will self excite. There is no facility for
it to turn the light on the dash on or of. This is done by the bus network.
The red wire is for voltage reference.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 7/7/18 at 10:35 PM |
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Thanks mate. Im still tracing all the wires down. Im getting there. I really want to finish it this month.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 8/7/18 at 01:37 PM |
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Hi Big Wasa
I got some good signs of life out of my loom today. Initially was trying to get the immobiliser to disarm and was having trouble with just the perm
live PATS receiver and grounds connected. I then tried firing up the power hold relay and the led came on solid for a few seconds then went out so it
looks like it's working 
The fuel pump also kicked in and primed for a few seconds which is a good sign. Not sure what I was doing wrong to be unable to get the immobiliser to
disarm without the power hold relay but it all seems ok now.
What I now need to do is tidy up the loom and sort out the fuses (which I'm hoping you could give me some advice on )
I have the high load side of the power hold relay fused at 20A, this feeds to various different sensors etc and the pre and post cat 02 sensors which
have an additional 10A fuse. I have no other fuses on the PHR
The feed to the PHR will be fed through the v33 diode as per focus set up but my main question is what fuses I need on the low load side of the
relays, if any.
Apologies for the essay but I appreciate any advice on this.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/7/18 at 10:24 AM |
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I tend to over use fuses. So one of my engines will normally have between six and ten fuses. It makes fault finding easier.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 9/7/18 at 04:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
I tend to over use fuses. So one of my engines will normally have between six and ten fuses. It makes fault finding easier.
So do you fuse the coil side of the relay as well, if so what size fuse do you use. What I've seen so far on the net is that a typical 40A relay
coil would typically draw 150 - 200 mAh current. I'm thinking if this is the case then I can just fuse the trigger side of the relay with a
small fuse for peace of mind.
Also do you know a suitable fuse for the coil pack 12v supply?
Thanks.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 9/7/18 at 10:23 PM |
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I don't have the ST170 alarm box ecu 2S7T-15K600-NC. Is this a problem that would stop my engine firing? What is the most likely thing to cause
no spark apart from PATS?
Can anyone recommend the best obd2 program? Forscan? I have the elm327 unit (not chinese) to link up with.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 9/7/18 at 10:25 PM |
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What is the PHR please?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 09:36 AM |
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No you don't need the gems modual ie the body control modual.
You don't even need the power hold relay if you have really chunky ignition switch gear but I do now use one as the sierra switches are getting
harder to find.
The last one I did, I used the heavy duty 70a grey relay I pulled out of the spares tin.
For everything else apart from the fan I use the yellow 40a relay from all Rover's as I used to be able to get them cheap from the breakers but
unfortunately they are no more due to eu bursary
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 06:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Pigsy
What is the PHR please?
Power hold relay.
I've used 3 relays in my set up. One for fuel pump, one for starter solenoid and power hold relay. After a bit of advice I've linked the
coil pack common to the PHR as opposed to direct from the ignition as per focus set up as this was simpler for me.
I'm hoping to fire the engine up soon but what OBD reader / software should i be using to check for any faults etc? I need a budget friendly
option :/
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big_wasa
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 07:07 PM |
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Forscan is great but overkill for little jobs I use an app called Torque on my android phone with a cheap clone elm dongle.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 07:16 PM |
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The latter sounds right up my street.
This sort of dongle?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263059199240
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big_wasa
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 07:40 PM |
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eBay Item
Mine looks like the above and cost around the same but do your homework as not all are equal.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 08:16 PM |
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Cheers I'll give one a go.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 08:59 PM |
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Gone for one of these based on reviews. If it's no good it's no worse than a spilt pint in an expensive pub
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372314585974
[Edited on 10/7/18 by FamilyGuy]
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Pigsy
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| posted on 10/7/18 at 09:06 PM |
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Thanks very much for that. I will look into torque.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 12/7/18 at 06:38 PM |
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I have had a slow power drain problem that I have been searching for. I completely dismantled the ecu etc to check everything and have been slowly
putting it back together while looking for problems. Then I noticed that the alternator was pretty warm. Probably for some time. No burned smell etc.
I can touch and hold it. Any ideas? The wires to the alternator are not hot at all.
On the ecu I have given the 5 earths their own connection to chassis earth. When I sort out the alternator, I will connect the led and get it flashing
correctly and then add in the bits to the ecu one by one untill I find what is causing the irregular flash of the led.
This is so time consuming! If I could afford i I would buy an ME221 sorted with loom for the st170. Second hand would be good.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/7/18 at 07:18 PM |
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I do get it that not every one loves the electrics and this is really is the more you make the less it cost ethos.
Re the Me221, It won’t stop with the ecu as chances are you will be doubling up by the time it’s mapped.
You have u2u
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Pigsy
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| posted on 12/7/18 at 08:14 PM |
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I forgot about the setup fees. Thanks for your definite help.. Any ideas on the alternator? It is connected with the smart start and I bought a proper
battery just to get it right, but its got lost in the post! I had no battery drain until recently. Thats only just started. I will google how to trace
it.
On the good side:
The led with pats was working until recently and the fuel pump is priming.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/7/18 at 08:38 PM |
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Start by unplugging it.
I’ve said a few times you can get it running on the basics and add in stuff as you go.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 12/7/18 at 09:43 PM |
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Thanks. You have. When the led was flashing correctly it still ha no spark. Then I discovered that there was no 12v to the coil centre wire.. Still no
spark. What would you have done next please?
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