Kriss
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 08:50 PM |
|
|
flat battery! bump start or jump ?????
chaps
after some extensive work over the last three weeks on the R1 Indy, it will be time to start driving her again.
I will imagine the battery will be dead, but whats the best way about getting the car going again.
I am unsure as to wether you can bump start them or what.
any advice, i know its a tad silly post, just dont want to bugger anything
for those what want to know what work has been done, full geo set up, camber, toe, chassis rake, ride height corner weighting etc. cant wait to get
her back on track.
|
|
|
tomgregory2000
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 08:54 PM |
|
|
i've bumped many a motorbike so i dont see any reason why you cant do it in the car but it would be sooo much eiser to jump it
my 2 pence anyway
|
|
blakep82
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 08:55 PM |
|
|
if you're worried about damaging gearboxes and stuff ( i don't think they'll be a problem bumb starting, but bike engines are one of
lifes mysteries. no one will ever understand them.. ) then jump start
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
A1
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:05 PM |
|
|
i was told it can bugger the ecu if you try bump starting them... to get mine going i borrowed the car battery
ended up buying a charger though...
|
|
mark chandler
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:05 PM |
|
|
Scary jump starting, the alternator windings can only handle a small battery so do this at your peril
If you do decide to jump start unplug the regulator, once its going and the jump leads are off plug back in.
Better to let it charge or bump.
Regards Mark
|
|
Shamrock GS
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:13 PM |
|
|
Shouldn't be a problem bump starting but make sure you have a decent hill / run as it will take a bit to get the fuel squirting, esp if its been
sitting a while. (Might be a problem if you have an electric fuel pump). Stick it in 3rd and off you go. Goes without saying that someone needs to be
in the driver seat and someone else pushing!
At the end of the day, however a charged battery is the safer and easier option. Go and buy a new one plus a trickle charger. Not expensive from
halfords and they have a sale on!
Happy New year
Gary
Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
|
|
Kriss
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:14 PM |
|
|
cool, will get on the bump start if its dead.
bump in third right?
|
|
minitici
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:24 PM |
|
|
Some bike engines don't like any kickback when starting. This tends to destroy the starter clutch. (Hayabusas certainly don't like it).
|
|
JoelP
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
you can jump it, but not off a running car apparently. If the car wasnt running, it the bike engine wouldnt even know it was being jumped, as it would
still only see 13V or whatever a standing battery is.
Trickle solar charger at my local trade place was £7+vat!
|
|
ashg
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
it may sound like a stupid answer but why dont you just charge the battery?
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
|
|
omega 24 v6
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 10:18 PM |
|
|
quote:
it may sound like a stupid answer but why dont you just charge the battery?
Far from stupid it's actually the BEST answer. A flat battery ( really flat) will be much healthier with a slow steady charge at 4 amps or so
than boiling it's tits off with a 70 amp alternator charging it up.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
|
|
A1
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 10:33 PM |
|
|
are you using a car or bike battery?
the chargers for sealed gel batteries are a bit more methinks
|
|
Kriss
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 10:58 PM |
|
|
only thought if it today and was thinking, "I wonder if she is going to start after being left for so long".
As a result, I thought I would ask whats best practice. Will see how she feels once its ready to start, if it wont jump into life, then i will buy a
charger.
its a tiny bike battery, and since owning the car i have had no need to look at the terminals etc. its probably a cheapie anyway!
|
|
rotax78
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 10:59 PM |
|
|
Nothing to do with your original starting question, but do you mind telling me more details about your new geomtry setup? what measurements did you
end up with? and at whose suggestion? Just being nosey, knowledge is power and all that. Cheers Simon
|
|
mark chandler
|
posted on 29/12/08 at 11:20 PM |
|
|
"you can jump it, but not off a running car apparently. If the car wasnt running, it the bike engine wouldnt even know it was being jumped, as
it would still only see 13V or whatever a standing battery is. "
Not true I am afraid, the bike alternator will try and charge the car battery when the engine fires up, this can fry the alternator windings on the
bike engine as the car battery is a much greater load, hence unplug the regulator if doing this.
|
|
BenB
|
posted on 30/12/08 at 09:26 AM |
|
|
The advice I was always given re bike engines and flat batteries was to jump start off a non-running car (otherwise the regulator fries if the other
car is running) and not to bump start cos you'll shag the starter and / or gearbox +/- alternator. Might be scare stories but is it worth
finding out??
|
|
britishtrident
|
posted on 30/12/08 at 11:40 AM |
|
|
If the battery is completely flat don't do either you must charge it even a little first.
This applies to anything fitted with an alternator.
Reason is alternators cannot charge a completely flat battery.
Old fashioned dynamos could charge old style batteries from completely flat.
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
Kriss
|
posted on 30/12/08 at 06:08 PM |
|
|
well, turned the ignition, dash booted up, dropped the clutch, pressed start and she fired into life and a nice idle instantly!
as for set up we have gone for
front ride height - 150 mm
rear ride height - 160 mm
front camber - 1.9 deg
rear camber - 1 deg
toe out of 1mm (i think, will confirm)
4 clicks front dampers
6 clicks rear dampers
its very nimble now, the original set up (a'la mr darby) was hilarious. mega low ride height, different left and right ride heights cambers of
up to 1.7 deg difference.
will report when the weather is better to see how it feels, just feels higher now.
main reason for ride height increase was to stop the wish bones for pointing up when cornering, they were barely flat even with no one in the car!
|
|
JoelP
|
posted on 31/12/08 at 11:41 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by mark chandler
"you can jump it, but not off a running car apparently. If the car wasnt running, it the bike engine wouldnt even know it was being jumped, as
it would still only see 13V or whatever a standing battery is. "
Not true I am afraid, the bike alternator will try and charge the car battery when the engine fires up, this can fry the alternator windings on the
bike engine as the car battery is a much greater load, hence unplug the regulator if doing this.
how sure are you on that? Cos thats not how i understand it. In a bike i thought the alternator always produces full whack, and the regulator dumps
the excess as heat. Hence not overloading the regulator with an 'undumpable' amount of charge from a car alternator. Cant see it making
any difference if its trying to charge the car battery, the voltage it sees from the car battery is the same as the voltage it sees in its own
battery, so in reality it would just dump less in the regulator and actually not get as hot.
Where am i wrong?
|
|