frodo_monkey
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 05:08 PM |
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'Blade engine removal question
Hi all,
When I had some electrical issues on my Stuart Taylor Locoblade at the Birkett at Silverstone, back in October, I was fortunate enough to run into
Andy Bates who diagnosed that a new reg/rec and generator was needed.
Having finally got around to starting the generator swap, I noticed that I'll need to take the engine out to have enough space as the generator
cover is about 3-4mm away from the NS chassis and footwell.
I'm almost ready to get the hoist on it, but I'm having trouble disconnecting the propshaft. Steve @ Aries mentioned something about
disconnecting the sleeve instead of undoing the bolts, can anyone point out what I need to do on the pic below?
Looking forward towards the engine
Looking back towards the Quaife reverse
I'd be grateful for some guidance from anyone who has attempted this before or built their own car! (I bought mine built) 
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting."
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ReMan
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 05:51 PM |
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Disconnecting the sleeve is the sliding joint in the middle of the top picture.
To do this would need to loosen the grip ring over the seal then it should pull apart as you bring the engine forward.
Not questioning the diagnosis, but are you SURE the generator is broke?
The regulator is a common problem, but IMHO unusual for it to take the generator with it?
Edited to aggree with Steve, that i's not the way I'd do it either
[Edited on 15/2/09 by ReMan]
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 05:51 PM |
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Just make your life easy by undoing the bolts that hold the propshaft onto the sprocket adaptor on the engine (it's the bit in the very centre
of your first photo).
I am sure the slide piece could come apart like Steve says, but it's not the way I'd do it.
Needless to say, do not re-use the nylocks - buy some new ones as this tends to be a part of a BEC car that gets substantial vibration.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 05:56 PM |
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I,ve lost a couple of regulators, generator has survived, best to put an ohm meter on the three leads in turn and measure the resistance, I cannot
remember what it is but any two wires should produce the same result.
Do not bother with a new blade regulator, get something with a heatsink, they are much of a muchness I have a Ducati one on mine as it cost £5.
Regards Mark
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frodo_monkey
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 06:16 PM |
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Thanks for the replies chaps - all much as I had guessed... The sleeve bit did unscrew, I just wasn't sure it would come apart but I guess
theres a splined bit in there somewhere!
I was going to trust Andy's diagnosis on the generator, but yes I totally agree that testing the resistance might prove easier - I'll give
it a go.
I've already got a new reg/rec unit to replace it - the new one is from a CBR1000RR and is a lot better designed. I'm also going to change
the position in the car and potentially use a PC fan to blow cold air at it.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting."
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frodo_monkey
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 06:41 PM |
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Bizarre...
Have just been out to the garage with a voltmeter! There are three yellow wires that go from my genny up to my reg/rec (I'll call them A,B,C) -
putting the voltmeter (set to ohms) between A/B,A/C and B/C all produced exactly the same resistance, so from that do I take it that there is actually
no need to take the engine out and replace the generator?!
Please say yes...
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting."
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ReMan
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 06:46 PM |
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That was the point I was hoping to make.
I think you are in luck 
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Hellfire
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 07:15 PM |
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Resistance should be 460 to 580 ohms @ 20 degrees C. If they're within these limits, you should be ok.
Phil
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/2/09 at 07:45 PM |
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Should be fine as all balanced, just plug and play now, stick on the new rectifier, start up and turn on the lights, if they glow brighter when you
raise the idle all is well.
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