bitsilly
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 07:37 PM |
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Anyone know how k8 hayabusa is?
Trying to figure what is the best Hayabusa to go for. I have heard that the K8 is the most powerful but I was wondering if anyone can help fill in the
gaps!
Does the K8 NEED a dry sump or will a swinging arm do?
Is it the same mounting points, so it is interchangable with any other busa of any year?
Does it need clutch spring upgrade?
Lastly, there was a K8 on Ebay and the seller said it had had a £1000 mod on the starter so that if you went backwards (in a spin?) the engine
wouldn't be destroyed! Is that true?
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Oh yeah, is it better than a ZX14?
Cheers
Ed
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fesycresy
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:02 PM |
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I looked into this (before work died off  ) From what I could make out:
The engine mounts are the same.
It needs a dry sump if you are going on track. The SBD sump looks the best.
I was lead to believe the starter mod wasn't needed after 2004 ?
Have a chat to Malc Curnin or Karl @ Extreme. They'll put you straight.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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bob tatt
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:03 PM |
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the block is the same so the mounting points are the same all the mods are internal, longer stroke crank mainly. i think you will also need the keys
to get past the immoboliser as well. As far as i was aware the later busa engines did not need the starter conversion. do you really need this mod if
you spin dip the clutch problem solved. in my opinion you will defo need a mimium of swinging pick up sump, baffle plates and an accusump if your
going to drive it hard. it all depends how fast a driver you are really. ive got standard springs on mine with a westfield hydraulic clutch and its
been fine, although i dont do any fast starts its only used on road and traack days so no sprinting or quarter mile runs.
as for is it better than a 14 i personally think it is because of all the tuning gear for them.
if you need advice re sumps and such give andy a ring at a and b hes a top bloke and very helpful.
hope this helps rob
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Andy B
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:11 PM |
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Hi Ed
if its heading for the track i would dry sump, I have recently supplied parts to a lad on here who was running the Koenig sump on his. The problem is
this sumps pick up does not swing 360 degrees. Initially it was designed for drag racing with oil surging from front to back and vice versa.
This leaves a large portion of the sump unprotected from surge. Result - bang
I know that there are mods to deal with the starter issueon earlier models but I dont think they cost a grand.
ZX14 v Hayabusa - on paper the 14 has it in real terms driving they are so close it comes down to personal preference I think
regards
Andy
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Andy B
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:12 PM |
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oops slow off the mark there. Have all your parts arrived Bob?
regards
Andy
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bob tatt
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:17 PM |
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everything is there now so damien says. having to work all weekend to pay for all the work. all i can say to everyone is get lots of advice re sumps
before you go any further, when it goes bang it gets very expensive very fast. thanks for all the help andy will defo be in touch if i ever need any
more bits (fingers crosed i dont though the accusump should prevent that)
rob
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bitsilly
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:24 PM |
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Cheers gents, later I may pm you for a few details if thats OK?
Andy, does the orientation of the ZX14 make a difference and does it need a dry sump in a BEC or will your billet sump do?
The only point about the ZX which I haven't laid to rest is the orientation of the engine. I know it works well in buggies, but how is it
shaping up for BECs when it is orientented differently? It is still my favoured lump but I hope the delay in my plans will bring with it some
wisdom!
Ed
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Andy B
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| posted on 10/4/09 at 08:35 PM |
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No worries Ed
when anticipating an install of the size you are I would always urge people to gather as much info as possible and from varied sources.
I spend ages with my customers making sure that the kit fits the budget and their expectations and at the same time that the budgets include the
hidden costs that need to be covered to get the package to work reliably. I would rather not sell a kit than supply one that just isnt going to work
because the essentials have not been budgetted for.
Its better for my customers that way and certainly better for business -
if you need any more advice feel free to call me
regards
Andy
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iiyama
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| posted on 11/4/09 at 07:07 AM |
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Starter mod is around £350 and isnt needed on any Hayabusa engine from 2004 onward.
If its broke, fix it. If it aint broke, take it apart and find out how it works!
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lococost
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| posted on 11/4/09 at 07:34 AM |
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Rilltech sells an alternative to the swinging pickup. Might be worth a look.
http://www.rilltechracing.com/products/index.shtml
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