Scubadude
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 06:53 AM |
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1600 Crossflow Rebuild Questions
Hi guys!
Eventually - a year after my car chew on an air cleaner stud - I'm getting round to rebuilding the engine. It is a real pity about that stud, as
all the measurements are within a couple of hundredths of a mm with no real sign of wear ... this engine could have lasted the rest of my life!
Anycase, I have some pickings for your collective brain. Some daft questions, possibly covered elsewehere (if so please point me to the url), but
here it goes:
- How important is the emision control valve that sits on top of the oil separator - my engine has the seperator but not ECV. If this is critical,
where can I find one? Or should I just pipe from the seperator to the rocker cover and from there to a catch tank?
- The Haynes book of lies (or was it the Wallage book?) recommends replacing all major fasteners, e.g. main bearing bolts, big end bolts and head
bolts. I understand this is best practice, but what do most guys do in the real world?
- The steel crank pulley mentioned in the books, is that the timing chain sprocket?
- What is your experience r.e. ligtening and balancing. Worth it on a fast road spec engine (40DCOE's, free flow 4 into 1 exhaust, racy
old-skool cam ("one up from GT spec" and 40thou oversize 1300 pistons) to be used as Sunday run-about and for the occasional track
day?
- The steel crank pulley recommended in the books - would that be required on an engine with the above specs?
Many thanks!
Francois
[Edited on 14/4/09 by Scubadude]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 07:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Scubadude
- How important is the emision control valve that sits on top of the oil separator - my engine has the seperator but not ECV. If this is critical,
where can I find one? Or should I just pipe from the seperator to the rocker cover and from there to a catch tank?
Many people just take a pipe to a catch tank - Burtons will sell you an outlet that you can put in the crankcase hole.
quote:
- The Haynes book of lies (or was it the Wallage book?) recommends replacing all major fasteners, e.g. main bearing bolts, big end bolts and head
bolts. I understand this is best practice, but what do most guys do in the real world?
If you're going for high revs & performance than you should replace those fasteners with new, higher-rated ones. If you're just going
to keep it close to original spec then maybe you don't need to. I replaced all my head bolts as the hex tops were corroded.
quote:
- The steel crank pulley mentioned in the books, is that the timing chain sprokcet
No - it's the fanbelt pulley that sits on the end of the crank. The original ones have been known to burst at high revs!
quote:
- What is your experience r.e. ligtening and balancing. Worth it on a fast road spec engine (40DCOE's, free flow 4 into 1 exhaust, racy
old-skool cam ("one up from GT spec" and 40thou oversize 1300 pistons) to be used as Sunday run-about and for the occasional track
day?
Can't comment on your options - only you can decide. I really like my x-flow, but if I was starting again I'd buy a more modern engine as
a starting point. For example, if you spend a shed-load of money on a crossflow you might get 130BHP (and an unmanageable revs range too), but a
1600cc Toyota 4-AGE will give you that out of the box BEFORE tuning!
I strongly recommend that you get hold of a Burtons catalogue (LINK ) as they specialise in small Ford engines
- the catalogue is also full of tuning tips. They'll also sell the parts to make a new all-alloy crossflow! Just make sure you're on
good terms with your bank manager...
Have fun,
David
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blackie
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 12:08 PM |
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........or you could keep yours for spares & bag yourself this beauty
Linky
Postage from Bristol may be a small snag though!!
ATB
DB
[Edited on 14/4/09 by blackie]
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Scubadude
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| posted on 14/4/09 at 02:26 PM |
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@ David ... thanks for the useful advice .. will post again as and when I hit a brickwall or the proverbial hits the fan.
@ Blackie ... yeah postage to South Africa would be a major problem. As a matter of interest, for that sort of money we can buy 4AGE blacktops in
reasonable nick imported from Japan ... makes 160-odd hp straight from the box, no trick parts required. I love the Kent crossflow motor for all the
nostalgic reasons, but my next 7 will be built around the cloned and upgraded Japanese Ford BDA engine ... 
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Scubadude
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| posted on 21/4/09 at 01:06 PM |
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Lightening ...
Right, found a decent place that do a lot of work for local works racing teams to do the balancing ... only problem is they don't do lightening.
We have a fully equipped machine shop at work, so I'm thinking of gettin the conrods and flywheel lightened here before sending in for
balancing. Only problem is ... where do you take the "meat" off and how much?
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thefreak
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| posted on 21/4/09 at 01:09 PM |
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Found this excellent article a while ago about lightening flywheels.
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/FLYWHEEL.htm
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