mrwibble
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 05:24 PM |
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painting my uprights
Another day another question.
Here are my uprights before
after electrolysis + wire brush + power file.
any who after a bit more polishing, i'm going to paint them with rustoleum, i'm just wondering whether to paint the spinny bit with the
bolts on (hub carrier?), obviously i dont want to create any friction between the spinny bit and the meaty bit, and/or affect the mating surface onto
which the disc sits.
regards Ed.
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graememk
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 05:49 PM |
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have them chromed for extra bling
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mcerd1
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 05:56 PM |
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I powder coated mine  but I stripped them down first and rebuilt with new bearings
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omega0684
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 06:42 PM |
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from experience get them done in Black! they won't stay silver for long i can tell you!
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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mrwibble
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 06:44 PM |
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best not to give me too many ideas. but you've proved i can paint the hub. replacing the bearings sounds like a good idea... how do u get
inside?
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mcerd1
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 07:02 PM |
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^^ nothing to difficult and its all in the haynes book:
dust cap comes off the back (try to save it - you might find it hard to get new ones)
then there is a big nylock nut
one side is left hand threaded, the other side right hand - make sure these go back on the correct sides of the car or they could undo themself as you
drive 
(you get new nuts with the new bearing kits)
there is a ridge in the midle of the upright so each outer bearing race comes out from its own side (you'll need a punch to persuade them)
best to press the new outer races into place if you can
you'll need a big torque wrench to tighten them (310-350Nm from memory)
and some high temp lithium grease to pack the bearing with
[Edited on 29/7/2010 by mcerd1]
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 08:44 PM |
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The wheel mounting face should NOT be painted/coated at all.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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RichardK
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| posted on 29/7/10 at 09:37 PM |
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Maybe worth drilling them and tapping them for the second method of mushroom inset fixing before you paint them, again not good engineering practice
to paint any faces, I would also repe the bearing whilst they are out and apart.
Just my 2 penneth well deposited.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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RichardK
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 10:57 AM |
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u2u replied but so others can see what I have described.
Hole drilled through side of upright and either into or all the way through mushroom.
Tapped out the upright
Job done!
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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mrwibble
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 12:46 PM |
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i understand what your saying, but ford engineered these to be secured by a pinch bolt, does anyone have a story about that failing?
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interestedparty
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 12:54 PM |
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there's a tongue on the strut on the Sierra I suppose the idea is to stop the mushroom turning and comilg loose that way
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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James
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 01:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by omega 24 v6
The wheel mounting face should NOT be painted/coated at all.
Agreed. Unevenness in the paint threw my brake discs out enough that they caused a wobble and were rubbing on the brake pad and stopping the wheel
turning properly.
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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James
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| posted on 30/7/10 at 01:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mrwibble
i understand what your saying, but ford engineered these to be secured by a pinch bolt, does anyone have a story about that failing?
I've not heard of anyone's failing.
But the point, is that a fair few people have failed IVA over this. So depending on your inspector, it's worth doing to save failing the test
for! 
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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mrwibble
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 08:35 AM |
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ah i see. but for a fury i need not worry, bgh supply a machined ring, which the ball joint is threaded into, this cap has a tongue as used by ford. i
did not see(read look) in RichardK's pics that he was missing this.
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Lippoman
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 08:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mrwibble
i understand what your saying, but ford engineered these to be secured by a pinch bolt, does anyone have a story about that failing?
Ford engineered them for a strut, not a double A-arm. With a strut there is "always" force pushing the strut into the upright ...
Also the lower joint is in a completely different load case than in the original application. Usually you get away with it in a locost as less
weight=less load.
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mrwibble
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 09:28 AM |
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i see. fortunately jeremy phillips seems to have thought of this already.
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Lippoman
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 11:12 AM |
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Sorry, didn't notice you seem to be building a Fury(?), the loads in that one are similar to original application.
I assumed your front to be similar as the one pictured earlier in thread, where the upright is "hanging" from the lower arm (spring/shock
attached to lower arm). These need a lower joint designed for the application.
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mrwibble
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| posted on 31/7/10 at 11:51 AM |
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fury suspension. note the use of the pinch bolt through a machined ring, with a tongue, to cap where the strut would go.
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