scoop
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 02:35 PM |
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Anti roll bars, DIY or supply?
Is this something you can make yourself? If not can you drop me onto a supplier please.
Cheers
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RichardK
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 03:08 PM |
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I got mine from MNR in kit form, I emailed my plans they bent the hoop and sent me enough tube for the back stays and I welded it together. Think it
was about £125 if I remember right.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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blakep82
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 03:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichardK
I got mine from MNR in kit form, I emailed my plans they bent the hoop and sent me enough tube for the back stays and I welded it together. Think it
was about £125 if I remember right.
Cheers
Rich
would that be a roll bar, rather than an anti roll bar though?
anti roll bars are torsion bars aren't they? best buy one i think. as for suppliers, i don't know. only much use on a race car i'd
have thought?
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Alan B
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 03:44 PM |
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Richard I suspect you misread the OP's question which was about anti-roll bars rather than roll cage/roll bar........unless I have misunderstood
it.
Anti roll bars are usually made from a spring steel after all they are springs (in a way). Home made ones are certainly possible but because of heat
treatment, or working with heat treated material they are likely to be troublesome...best bet IMO is to try and adapt something close.
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snapper
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 04:07 PM |
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I would look at what Westfield and Caterham do.
A simple spring steel bar and flat bars coming off at 90degs and down links that can be moved forwards or backwards to adjust the strength
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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RichardK
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 04:14 PM |
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doh, must learn to read properly 
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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bi22le
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 05:45 PM |
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I work for a manufacturing company that use ali tube to tube clamps (use them for wheelchair accessories and modifications). They go down to 19mm dia
to 19mm dia and up to 25mm dia clamp to 25mm dia. All combinations aswell.
They are tightened with two allen key bolts and are serious bits of kit. They are perfect for clamping your anti roll bar to the lower wish bone.
They cost about £40 and would give the strength adjustment that you need.#
U2U me if needed.
HTH
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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scoop
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 07:49 PM |
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Richard, you had me going for a while with what i thought was a whole new ARB terminology
bi22le, i'll be in touch.
Snapper i've been doing exactly that and have been thinking to myself, i can do that.
Cheers chaps
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Antnicuk
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 09:09 PM |
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i made mine and my cousin fitted stock car ones to his Tiger avon (focus ones IIRC) they are easy to make and fit and make adjustable if you have some
minor welding/metalwork skills. Also very easy to disconnect so you can see/feel the difference.
600 BHP per ton, Stylus Brought back from the dead! Turbo Rotary Powered!
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scoop
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 09:18 PM |
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You got any pics for me. I have access to welder, engineer etc
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neo2
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| posted on 26/8/10 at 09:35 PM |
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Ive just fitted one on my MK from a caterham and did it all here is the link and the pictures of mine..
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/21/viewthread.php?tid=140049
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scoop
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 07:52 AM |
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Very helpfull mate, thanks. Nice job too. Have you had a chance since to test it properly?
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procomp
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 01:26 PM |
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Hi
The trouble is that unless you have some experience of knowing what dimensions and material your working with you are basically stabbing in the dark
with an ARB.
There are many other things to take into consideration before fitting them. For instance are the dampers fitted to the car actually working correctly
and valved suitably for the application. Are the spring rates being used actually working with the setup. Is the geometry your running working
correctly. There's many things to sort prior to experimenting with Arb's.
The majority of ARB's fitted to these types of cars are way too stiff and cause more problems than they where intended to cure. Also the
adjustment range that is usable is too small meaning that you find that to see any significant difference you need to make another bar to try back to
back. And then there is of course the whole issue of whether to fit them on a road car. True they allow more compliant suspension whilst controlling
weight transfer but with the majority of cars running too stiff on dampers and springs as well as suspension bushes binding you may find you chasing
your tail round in circles unless the basics are already sorted.
Cheers Matt
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scoop
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 03:07 PM |
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You cant argue with a pro's opinion.
Im preparing to sprint and hillclimb my car next year and the answer to most of your questions is that i dont know
What i'll have to do is bring the car over to you and get it sorted properly and go from there i guess. Shame you're so far away.Cheers
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procomp
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 03:52 PM |
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Hi
I'm not for one minute touting for the work. Simply giving a bit of info about the problems of just fitting a ARB without getting the basics
sorted first and knowing what is involved in sorting a specification out to manufacture a ARB that will actually work for the application rather than
causing more problems than where there already.
Ie for the front end of a locost race car and Westfield i manufacture 9 different strengths of bar. That is to cover the different diving styles
required for different disciplines of motorsport and the different setups required for BEC and CEC applications.
I also see from other posts that you have or are looking at fitting GTS wide track wishbones. There is a problem before you even start. The damper is
to far inboard from the outer ball joint / wheel which means that your looking at dampers being custom valved to work with the now very small ratio of
wheel to damper rod movement ratio. All you will see is lack of control of the wheels over the finer bumps giving wheel patter. Start looking at the
whole setup not just the individual parts.
Cheers Matt
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scoop
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 04:03 PM |
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No thats all, partly anyway, understood. Its a home built Locost at the end of the day which has been fine on the road but taking it to another level
next year means getting it sorted properly. I already have wide arms fitted and the shocks and springs are from a VX 220 so by no means intended for
the car.Thanks.
[Edited on 27/8/10 by scoop]
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