Davegtst
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 08:20 PM |
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Hayabusa PAIR valve removal
Going to be putting my engine in soon and wanted to get it all prepared before it's hoisted in. Is it ok to remove this whole system before
IVA? Will it affect emissions or anything else?
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widz
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| posted on 27/8/10 at 09:23 PM |
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keep it on for iva set fueling with a powercommander
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Davegtst
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| posted on 28/8/10 at 01:19 PM |
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I've been told by someone else that i can just ditch it. Is there any reason you say i need to keep it?
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chris taylor
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| posted on 28/8/10 at 06:12 PM |
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Dave,
mine passed IVA this summer without the PAIR system, but I have a power commander which was running an IVA Map,
cheers,
Chris
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chris taylor
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| posted on 28/8/10 at 06:16 PM |
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Just remembered aswell,
fit a fuel pressure regulator which is readable and adjustable and if the emissions are still a little high drop the fuel pressure a couple of Bar, it
makes all the difference.
Pressure should be approx 43, dropped mine down to 41,
cheers
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Davegtst
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| posted on 28/8/10 at 07:45 PM |
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The pump has a built in regulator. Are you using a separate regulator aswell or is your busa the early version before they had the pump in the tank?
I will be getting a power comander also.
[Edited on 28/8/10 by Davegtst]
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dilley
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 09:16 PM |
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I really don't mean to hi-jack, BUT ! I have been looking at my 2001 busa loom and wondered if I can remove the vacum system? is this the pair
valve????
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Davegtst
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 09:20 PM |
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The PAIR system on a 2001 model is operated by vacuum (later models were operated by electric). I believe you can just block off the vacuum pipe to
it and blank off the holes above the exhaust ports.
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dilley
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 09:24 PM |
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Have you figured out where you need to fit resistors on your loom? I would appreciate any tips on any wiring you may have done!
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Davegtst
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 09:32 PM |
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Haven't dome any wiring yet, just been reading my haynes manual on the busa. You need to fit resistors? Are you sure you need to? the 2001 K1
doesn't have any electrical conectors to the pair system, .
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dilley
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 09:36 PM |
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I believe you need to for the side stand switch removalmand also some others??tip sensor?
ETA: I have brought an a3 full colour laminated wiring diagram off ebay for £10.75, it's really worth having!
[Edited on 31/8/10 by dilley]
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Davegtst
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| posted on 1/9/10 at 10:36 AM |
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Hmmm didn't know that. Anyone got anymore info? Exactly what resistors and where they go?
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cosmick
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| posted on 1/9/10 at 07:51 PM |
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PAIR Removal and wiring info.
First of all, the Pair valve system on a 2001 engine is worked by vacuum only. The method is that when closing the throttle, high vacuum will open the
PAIR valve sending air from the air cleaner straight into the exhaust ports thus diluting any rich mixture caused when closing the throttle. It can be
removed but if you are going to IVA your car, any improvement in Exhaust Emissions will be welcome. You should also know that you will not increase
any power by removing it, just make the engine a bit lighter and less clumsy looking, although the PAIR system looks quite neat on the Busa.
Secondly when wiring the engine up, you will need 2 resistors. A 100 ohm resistor for the ignition and a 62k ohm resistor for the Tip Over Sensor.
The 100 ohm resistor needs to be wired between the Orange/Yellow wire to Black/White at the ignition switch or anywhere down the wire to the ECM.
Black/White is Earth on Suzuki wiring.
The 62k ohm resistor needs to take the place of the Tip Over Sensor and simply needs to be wired between the Black/White wire and Black.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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dilley
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| posted on 1/9/10 at 09:39 PM |
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would removing it show a fault code?
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cosmick
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| posted on 2/9/10 at 06:04 AM |
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I Presume you mean the Pair system?
NO.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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Davegtst
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| posted on 2/9/10 at 07:19 AM |
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Thanks Cosmick thats great.
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dilley
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| posted on 2/9/10 at 10:31 PM |
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Thanks for that! another tick off my info needed sheet!
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MydT9
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 08:58 PM |
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I've just finished a new wiring loom(cut down) for my own Busa conversion, drop me a U2U with your e-mail and I will send you my wiring diagram
that shows which Resistors to use and where..... and mine starts and runs with a PC3. Good luck,
Cheers, Myd
Myd
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=RPWhhbaPG4o
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sucksqueezebangblow
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| posted on 13/9/10 at 10:14 AM |
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This is the lit I was given and used on my Busa. It seems to work fine.
Busa loom mods;
Tilt takes a 68Kohm resistor
Sidestand takes a jumper
Clutch lever position takes a jumper
ECU needs a 150ohm resistor between O/Y and B/W
Engine stop switch takes a jumper
You can use standard 1/4 watt resistors but the larger 1/2 or 1 watt resistors are physically more durable.
You can also put a 6k8 resistor on the gear position indicator sensor to fool the ECU into thinking it's in 5th gear - gives more aggressive
ignition curves in the lower gears and takes off the 6th gear lower rev limiter.
Better to Burnout than to Fade Away JET METAL ~ AndySparrow © 
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cosmick
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| posted on 13/9/10 at 05:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sucksqueezebangblow
This is the lit I was given and used on my Busa.
Busa loom mods;
Clutch lever position takes a jumper. (quote)
DO NOT use a Jumper wire for the clutch switch.
This will make the ECM follow the Neutral Map in ALL gears because it thinks that the dlutch is disengaged. You will lose 500 RPM Rev Limit in EVERY
GEAR.
Instead, cut the Black/Yellow wire at the starter relay and earth the end that goes to the relay. Leave the other end of the wire vacant and insulate
it then tape it back into the loom.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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BobM
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| posted on 20/9/10 at 03:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cosmick
quote:
Originally posted by sucksqueezebangblow
This is the lit I was given and used on my Busa.
Busa loom mods;
Clutch lever position takes a jumper. (quote)
DO NOT use a Jumper wire for the clutch switch.
This will make the ECM follow the Neutral Map in ALL gears because it thinks that the dlutch is disengaged. You will lose 500 RPM Rev Limit in EVERY
GEAR.
Instead, cut the Black/Yellow wire at the starter relay and earth the end that goes to the relay. Leave the other end of the wire vacant and insulate
it then tape it back into the loom.
I was interested in this as when I built my Fury many moons ago I was advised to short the clutch switch.
I read your post and prior to heading off to Snetterton on Saturday I cut the black/yellow wire going to the ECU.
I have to say it didn't feel any different and my logs confirm I was revving to the same as last time I was there (10,500).
I did hear somewhere that someone else had wired it via a relay from the starter button so it just earthed it when the starter was pressed. This then
allowed the ECU to 'see' that the clutch had been held in and was now back out again.
Do we really have any facts about these supposed neutral, 1st gear, 5th gear ECU maps?
Not very Locost but very BEC 
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cosmick
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| posted on 20/9/10 at 08:37 PM |
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There are 2 issues to discuss here. One is the rev limit, the other is the 6th gear limiter.
If you join the Black/Yellow wires together in order to make the starter relay operate, the engine will rev limit at 10500 in every gear as the
ignition map will follow the neutral map irrespective of what gear the engine is in.
There are different fuel maps for 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and finally 5th and 6th.
Engines from 2001 onwards had a 6th gear speed limiter to restrict the BIKE top speed to 186MPH or 300KPH. So 6th gear tails off and rev limits
earlier than 1st 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th.
You maybe correct about the ECU needing to see a clutch switch signal (at least once) to allow the engine to rev to 11000 RPM. This may also affect
2001 engines onwards. It certainly affects the 2008 onwards engines.
So earthing out the Black/Yellow wire once when starting the engine may (in your case) release another 500 RPM.
Importantly, Maximum power on Hayabusa's is at 9500 RPM and maximum torque is at 7000 RPM so a 10500 rev limit is no bad thing. It only becomes
a problem if you want to carry a gear through a corner and the extra 500 RPM is then useful.
The most important thing to know is that if the ECU sees the clutch switch ON all the time it will not give the same advance characteristics and will
ignore the gear position sensor.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
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sglover
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| posted on 16/6/11 at 10:19 PM |
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Just came across this , the PAIR or Pulse air injection system should be left on for SVA. High performance engine like the busa have no incylinder air
motion at light load so the combustion needs to be rich of stoich to maintian some degree of stability. In view of this the catalyst will need air to
oxidise the HC and CO emissions and it gets it form teh PAIR susyem that originally worked to introduce air at high load by pulse tuning (like a
2-stroke exhaust). the air enters the exhaust and CO oxides at about 550 C , HC at 620 C with out a CAT. For idle emisisons the temps are lower so a
cat and air is needed ( a catalyst is just an enabler, it makes chemical reactions occur at lower tmeperatures than they would normally occur). hope
this helps others as i just putting mine through SVA wkith soem power commnader AFR troubles
t Originally posted by Davegtst
Going to be putting my engine in soon and wanted to get it all prepared before it's hoisted in. Is it ok to remove this whole system before
IVA? Will it affect emissions or anything else?
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