pdm
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 posted on 11/9/10 at 08:17 PM |
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Hub nuts problem on donor
Evening
One of the first things I did on my previous BMW donor was loosen the hub nuts as soon as I knew it wouldn't run again.
Guess what I forgot to do with my MX5 donor 
The body has gone, all I have left is the rear subframe which has all wishbones and diff in (with loosened bolts) and the diff is connected to an RSJ
type affair with bolts (again loosened), the RSJ then going to bolts on back of gearbox.
Subframes (both front and rear) are supported from underneath on wooden block supports.
Handbrake cables are of no use as there is nowhere to attach handbrake.
I can put the car in gear. It has a VLSD which means one wheel can spin with the other staying still as it wont' get hot turning it by hand
(?)
So my problem is I can't loosen the hub nut without the hub (or wheel when put back on) turning.
Things I have tried - all with breaker bar on hub nut:
My missus sitting on wheel to try and stop it turning - she isn't heavy enough (which she is quite pleased about).
Jamming a mahoosive pry bar between wheel studs.
Plenty of WD40 on hub nut.
I haven't pulled the whole hub and driveshaft assembly off, the driveshaft is still connected to the diff although nuts loosened.
I just haven't got anything that will stop the wheel turning. I am guessing that even if I could get hold of one, an impact gun would just
knock the wheel round.
Be grateful (extremely grateful) for any advice on what to do at this point.
thanks in advance
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coozer
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 08:23 PM |
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You need a disc with a bit of box welded on it. Then you can put a long bit of smaller section box in that to give you the leverage required.
LG,
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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loggyboy
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 08:23 PM |
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Is it a reverse thread on the N/S?
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 08:28 PM |
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Hi, an impact gun would probably do it as it works on a shock principle not steady force like a long bar gives.
I didnt have a socket to undo my sierra ones so i used a large adjustable and a big hammer and shocked them undone. make sure your undoing as on the
my donor one side was aleft hand thread i dont knw about your donor
Ray
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pdm
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 08:40 PM |
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Thanks for your help.
I don't think they are handed but will double check manual.
Like the idea of box section for leverage but from experience with prybar, I think if I did manage to jam the hub then the effort used on the hub nut
would lift the subframe.
I'm wondering if I should pull drive shafts out of the diff and take them to a local garage to impact the hub nuts off.
Don't want to admit defeat just yet though so keep the ideas coming !!
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coozer
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 08:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pdm
Thanks for your help.
I don't think they are handed but will double check manual.
Like the idea of box section for leverage but from experience with prybar, I think if I did manage to jam the hub then the effort used on the hub nut
would lift the subframe.
I'm wondering if I should pull drive shafts out of the diff and take them to a local garage to impact the hub nuts off.
Don't want to admit defeat just yet though so keep the ideas coming !!
Forget to say.. you put a long bit of smaller box through the big bit there, you stands on it and the only limiting factor is how strong you are. This
takes away all the lifting and transfering energy. You could do this on a hub that's not attached to anything else.
I suspect you can exert a lot more than you think. I used that method to tighten mine and ended up heaving on it then backing it off because I
exceeded the torque required. When I discovered this method it was a revelation.
The reason for the short piece on the disc then the longer bit is so you can swap them over for left or right hand thread.
[Edited on 11/9/10 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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pdm
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 08:56 PM |
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ah ok I see now - might have to have a go at that then as it sounds promising
thanks
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coozer
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 09:00 PM |
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Let me know how it goes, I suspect you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it becomes
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 09:31 PM |
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I did exactly this, on 2 mx5's
I ended up putting all 4 shafts upright and filling the nut well with a good penetrating oil everyday for about a month.
Then I tried all the stuff you did, I ended up just putting the shaft in vice and giving the nut a well placed smack on the periphery with a
punch/chisel.
They went really quickly actually. Just went down to O'Reillys auto part for 4 new hub nuts
Then the fun of removing shafts start, they are effing tight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[Edited on 11/9/10 by liam.mccaffrey]
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pdm
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 09:49 PM |
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so when you say "well placed smack", what angle do you mean ?
Chisel against hubnut in line with driveshaft so that force transmitted along the driveshaft
or chisel against hubnut at 90 degrees to driveshaft so that force of blow is trying to turn nut
or something else ??
[Edited on 11/9/10 by pdm]
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JekRankin
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 10:01 PM |
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I took my Sierra shafts to a garage and they were able to get the hub nuts off in a few seconds using an impact gun.
Jek
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 10:03 PM |
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I think, if i remember right I used a sharp punch and sort of punched the very edge of the nut so as to try and undo it.
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-matt
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| posted on 11/9/10 at 10:44 PM |
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i had this problem with my sierra, i just wedged a small breaker bar between 2 studs, then let the other end catch on the chassis.
and then long breaker bar on, jumped on top of it, and they came off pretty easy.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 12/9/10 at 08:27 AM |
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As said an impact wrench should shift them in a few seconds , a few other alternatives, split the nut using a sharp chisel so that the chisel is in
line with the drive shaft . Support the under side of the nut and give the chisel a few good clouts with a large hammer until the nut opens. 2 Use a
large drift and hammer to knock the nut in the required direction, tilt the drift at about 45 degrees. 3 Carefully drill the nut along side of the
drive shaft threads , the open with a chisel . All of the above will require new nuts but if they are Nylock it's good practice to replace them
anyhow. Also less hassle than making anything to hold the hubs whilst undoing nuts IMHO
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pdm
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| posted on 12/9/10 at 11:42 AM |
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thanks everyone - will have bacon sarnie, watch f1 then its time to get serious with it !!
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