dhutch
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:10 PM |
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Torque Wrench - Cost/Quality and Torque Range?
I need a torque wrench, and Christmas is coming. Simples.
We not really, because having never had one, ive never really looked at values, just use my intuition based on the material, bolt size and
application. So when i look at what i want to send a link to some one to buy it for me theres a whole load of ranges 25-50 40-80 100-250 and im left
cold as to which i want to best cover working on the car.
I spanner on the tintop for most things that need doing, also the kitcar, but also am looking to do some engine building soon.
IM also due a socket set, which is on the list too, and for that im planning to go 3/8inch so would pick the same for the Torque Wrench i expect
although i could use an adapter. Assuming people wouldn't go 1/2in on the socket set?
Daniel
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blakep82
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:16 PM |
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i'd always go 1/2 inch drive on socket sets
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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mookaloid
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:20 PM |
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For car engines you will mostly use 1/2" drive sockets and torque wrench.
Having said that I wouldn't want to be with out my 3/8" drive set and a 1/2" to 3/8" converter to use the torque wrench with
the 3/8" sockets.
3/8" drive torque wrenches are mainly for bike engines.
So in summary get both 3/8" and 1/2" drive socket sets and a 1/2" drive torque wrench 
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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bitsilly
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:22 PM |
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I'd also go bigger.
For engine building it would be best to buy one that has been calibrated. I got quite a reasonably priced one which was calibrated, and inc in the
price you could send it back after a year to be checked/adjusted.
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jacko
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:30 PM |
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Remember which ever you get always slacken off the spring after use or it will be ruined the next time you want to use it
guess how i know 
And as above go with the 1/2 ins drive
Good advice from mookaloid about the 3/8 sockets
Jacko
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designer
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:33 PM |
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Have a look at what torque range you will be using, then buy a wrench with your required range in the middle.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:41 PM |
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You need a minimum two torque wrenches.
For most engine work on modern cars a 3/8" drive for up to about 25NM ----- most needed for first stage torquing of angular tightened
head bolts.
For bigger stuff a 1/2" drive to cover from about 28NM to roughly 200NM
You don't need to pay the earth for a decent torque wrench, you will find them from £11 to £250 upwards.
Just do Google Shopping search on " Torque wrench 1/2" and "Torque wrench 3/8" will turn up Sealey and Draper
products for under £30, yo may want to add a third wrench for better coverage in the 10 to 80 NM range.
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will121
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 12:43 PM |
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i got a 3/8" drive one last christmas with range of 20-80 lb/ft which suited my zetec rebuild, one advantage or could be disadvantage of
3/8" ones is they are significantly shorter with less leverage at about 11" long which helped me as engine was still in car and using one
18"+ long laying under car doing big end bolts may have been harder, also most head bolts are stretch bolts with angle of turn rather than high
torque.
finally worth putting in letter to santa about specialist internal/external star type sockets if required for your engine
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Mix
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 01:25 PM |
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Hi
At the risk of bucking the trend
I would suggest you buy 3/8" socket sets and torque wrenches for engine building, (and for the majority of other vehicle work). You will find
the additional access afforded by the smaller tooling invaluable and providing you buy reasonable quality tools you shouldn't suffer
breakages.
I have the full range of socket sets up to 1/2" and additional part ranges to 1" due to my occupation but it is very rarely that I use
anything above 3/8" drive when performing vehicle maintenance.
Have a look in a Haynes manual for the torques you will need to apply - probably only the head bolts will tax a 3/8" drive.
Regards Mick
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 01:26 PM |
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Best torque wrench i have ever bought and have is a second hand Snap on digital 3/8, it covers torque ranges from 6.7nm to 135nm so covers most
aplications .
Cost about £130 second hand but worth every penny
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 01:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Hi
At the risk of bucking the trend
I would suggest you buy 3/8" socket sets and torque wrenches for engine building, (and for the majority of other vehicle work). You will find
the additional access afforded by the smaller tooling invaluable and providing you buy reasonable quality tools you shouldn't suffer
breakages.
Regards Mick
Agree 200%
UNLESS you have a landrover Which i now do and i had to buy a 3/4 socket set to cope with the bolts on that
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dhutch
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 02:24 PM |
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Edit
Over written the post by mashing the mouse clicking. Sorry!
[Edited on 6/12/2010 by dhutch]
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Mix
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 03:05 PM |
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Hi
With regard to callibration - if the means of callibration aren't callibrated themselves then you are p-ing into wind. However you have to ask
how accurate you wish to be.
Callibration can be easily achieved using a 'known' mass, (bag of sugar etc.), hung from a suitable tube sleeved over the torque wrench to
provide the moment arm.
To be honest, I wouldn't get too hung up about wrench callibration - in most cases the aim is to get a consistent torque across the joint, using
a reasonably good quality 'break back' torque wrench will achieve this.
Regards Mick
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big_wasa
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 04:20 PM |
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For most stuff I would also go for 3/8" I use it ten times more than my 1/2" Allways buy the best you can and buy once.
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Peteff
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 04:50 PM |
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I have a 3/8" drive that only goes up to 50 lb ft and a 1/2" for the rest but the last cylinder head I did only needed the initial low
torque setting then the rest was done using an angle gauge.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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SeaBass
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 06:07 PM |
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I've got a very decent Norbar 3/8" which goes up to about 50N.m and a cheaper Draper Expert which ends at about 240Nm.
I'm more concerned about the lower torques for engine parts etc. They get extensive use and I'm getting more anal about correct values.
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Stott
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| posted on 5/12/10 at 08:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Hi
At the risk of bucking the trend
I would suggest you buy 3/8" socket sets and torque wrenches for engine building, (and for the majority of other vehicle work). You will find
the additional access afforded by the smaller tooling invaluable and providing you buy reasonable quality tools you shouldn't suffer
breakages.
Regards Mick
Agree 200%
UNLESS you have a landrover Which i now do and i had to buy a 3/4 socket set to cope with the bolts on that
Agree 300% 
I never reach for anything other than 3/8 stuff unless it's going on a gun or breaker bar.
When I was working as a mechanic it was the same even though I was a tech at a L Rover main dealer rebuilding the things every day. Only some of the
chassis bolts and head bolts or the wheels/hubs brought out the 1/2" sockets, 3/8 on everything else.
I don't know 1 professional mechanic with a proper complete set of 1/2" shallow and deep sockets. Every single one I know however does
have a full set of 3/8", deep, shallow, spline, e torx, torx, crow foot, etc etc etc.
As for the torque wrench debate I use the halfords/sykes pickavant ones. One 8-60 and one 60-300 negating the need for the mid range one. The smaller
is 3/8" and the larger is 1/2" which I mainly use with an impact reducer on 3/8" sockets. I think they are fantastic for the money
especially on a trade card.
HTH
Stott
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dhutch
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| posted on 6/12/10 at 10:21 PM |
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Looking at something like this then?
Not amazing im sure, but seems popular and of a suitable torque range?
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15609
Daniel
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Stott
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| posted on 7/12/10 at 09:44 AM |
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Yeah that sort of thing but you will still need a bigger one for head bolts or wheel nuts etc.
ATB
Stott
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