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Author: Subject: volvo or saab turbo donor
gothbiker

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:09 PM Reply With Quote
volvo or saab turbo donor

hi, I'm new to this site, I'm looking at building a locost, basically im on a budjet, I'm thinking of using a volvo or saab turbo as a donor mainly for the engine, still use ford sierra parts aswell, has anybodu any advice or recommend another engine?
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chicade

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:13 PM Reply With Quote
heres a good start for you might be worth a look???

VOLVO 940 2.0 TURBO ENGINE AND GEARBOX HOTROD KITCAR on eBay (end time 13-Jan-11 13:15:05 GMT)

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chicade

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:14 PM Reply With Quote
ow and welcome to the gang!
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Humbug

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:38 PM Reply With Quote
A few people have used Volvo engines... volvorsport is one username that comes to mind. Also Rallye_Mark

Try using the Locostbuilders Search function and look for "volvo" in the Engine and transmission forum and look at t some of the posts. Try the same with "saab"

Good luck!

(I used a K series...)

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Benzine

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:50 PM Reply With Quote
Saab

lol j/k... Volvo. 2.3 turbo redblock from a 940, could get a cheap donor and use everything you need. The redblock is a great engine, I've got 180k on my daily driver and still going great, also had a 940 with 155k on the clock. IIRC I recently read about a redblock that had a million miles on the clock with no internal work done to it (just regular oil changes, belts etc) and there's a volvo 1800 with 2.7 million miles on the clock XD (although I don't know what engine is in that)





The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make it moral.


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gothbiker

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:53 PM Reply With Quote
thanks alot for the welcome, thats what im trying to buy at the mo, should be able to make 250bhp without major money.
just been looking at the best chassis to buy not confident to make one.........

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Dan.

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:55 PM Reply With Quote
Myself and my friend 'Slutters' had the same dilema... solution I'm building a volvo whiteblock (T5) powered one and he is building a Saab 2.3 Turbo powered one.

He has a build Thread under the 'Engine & Transmission' section of the forum, mine has yet to get underway but will consist of T5 engine, standard (RICA'd) management, Ford T5 gearbox and adaptor plate, this is mated to sierra diff etc.

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lotusmadandy

posted on 4/1/11 at 01:57 PM Reply With Quote
Hi and welcome to the forum.

well Mk is one possibility,as Benzine has demonstrated.

Andy






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gothbiker

posted on 4/1/11 at 02:04 PM Reply With Quote
I was thinking of a redblock engine 4cyl? think the white block is the 5cyl? think it might cost a bit much for that one, was toying with the idea of a diesel but i cant see there will be any point.....
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liam.mccaffrey

posted on 4/1/11 at 02:35 PM Reply With Quote
The whiteblock is a modular engine available in 4,5 or 6 cylinder format. The 5 cyls are not expensive at all I have an engine from a good runner sourced from this forum and all it cost is £150 with all ancillaries. However the issue of custom engine management may mean you're better off with the 4 cyl or even better the 6.

Don't the SAAB engines bolt straight up to RWD omega gear boxes? Might be worth considering.

[Edited on 4/1/11 by liam.mccaffrey]





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Rallye_Mark

posted on 4/1/11 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
Hey,

I bought a Volvo 740 Turbo on an F plate for £150 and have just fitted it into my chassis, have a look at my threads to see my progress so far. It has the 2.3litre 8v B230ET engine which is 180bhp from standard and a bucket load of torque.

Also the Red-blocks can be mega tuned and for not a lot of money, im aiming for about 230-250bhp in the end running the standard turbo as it runs on 7psi standard, so with my custom exhaust manifold and 3inch exhaust system I reckon 200bhp will be achievable, then turning the boost up to about a Bar will see 230-250bhp.

The gearboxes are quite weak depending on which one you get, I have a 4 speed manual with overdrive and have read that most people find that after 250bhp the gearboxes can break and the standard clutches begin to slip, but should be putting less strain on it being in my lighter car.



It does fit, just might I add, in the standard Ron Champion chassis, however the turbo needs to be relocated which I am doing myself, running Sierra front and rear uprights with bolt on 3.92 diff, land rover v8 engine mounts and other bits and bobs

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Volvorsport

posted on 5/1/11 at 12:20 AM Reply With Quote
ooooooooooooollllllllllllllllllllllkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

best do a search.....lol.

any questions just ask , gearing is an issue with volvo boxes , 1st is done by 30 mph .

youll struggle to put the redblock in a normal chassis , its too far forward for my liking , it needs to be a bit taller , and a bit wider , ie 442 or a haynes .

you can use all the other stuff too.

im considering selling mine again to be honest.....





www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus

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Dan.

posted on 6/1/11 at 01:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by liam.mccaffrey

Don't the SAAB engines bolt straight up to RWD omega gear boxes? Might be worth considering.

[Edited on 4/1/11 by liam.mccaffrey]

They do indeed, unsure how good the ratios are though, if they are not great a T5 box comvined with a Vauxhall->T5 bell housing from RWD motorsport would be the ideal sollution imo as the ratios of a T5 box are good though this would obviously be substantially more expensive than an omega box.

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Bare

posted on 10/1/11 at 06:05 PM Reply With Quote
Having been a Saab dilettante since '84. I can say that the Saab engines are robust powerful things.
A simple DIY ecu reprogram will take the 2.3 up to 300hp (true, I have done it) without any hardware upgrades, ultimately even 500 is possible.. if daft.
Real issue though is that these are Heavy cast steel lumps. Lightweights they are not!
Do you really.. want a 400 lb motor in the front of a car that you are trying to total around 500kgs?
(IMO Volvo is just an inferior :-) but just as heavy a motor )
IMO lightness is THE advantage of a Seven type machine. Adding weight will degrade the car's performance/handling by anyone's yardstick
As reference a Honda 600RR motor unit is 128hp and it lives in a 157Kg complete Motorcycle.
A Hyabusa engine at 1300 cc is up to 194 hp and the entire engine/trans monoblock weighs in at 65 Kgs!!

Clearly those are not beer money options.. But do describe the weight ranges possible. Food for thought :-)
I believe there are serious perf advantages to choosing an all Alloy engine of most any pedigree.

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Benzine

posted on 10/1/11 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bare

(IMO Volvo is just an inferior :-) but just as heavy a motor )


Volvo 4, 5, 6 cylinder whiteblock are all alloy

quote:
Originally posted by Bare
I believe there are serious perf advantages to choosing an all Alloy engine of most any pedigree.


see above





The mental gymnastics a landlord will employ to justify immoral actions is clinically fascinating. Just because something is legal doesn't make it moral.


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GRRR

posted on 7/2/11 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
I'm doing a Saab 2.0 turbo B204L engined GBS Zero, check out zero-build.blogspot.com

Its bolted to an Omega box, but we are having some issues with packaging... its a TALL engine, we've done a minor sump cut-down but will still need a sizeable bulge to get it under the bonnet.

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Bare

posted on 27/2/11 at 05:37 PM Reply With Quote
Interesting build.
Do you have any notion of the weight of your Saab unit? I'm asking as someone recently told me their Miata engine was close to 300lbs. Which if true,, would make it seem similar if not heavier? than a Saab..amusingly Ironic :-)

IMO Goo and glue is not a reliable/durable joining of engine parts method. Give that more thought.

You cannot? fit a Saab 9000 intercooler? A shame, as it's good to 300hp.

Also , if I might suggest: that you reprogram your ECU using T5suite (google..it's free! and an easy DIY.)
I say this as using the tuning' wizard' inherent in the program the boost will be reset to 'hit' less hard and keep it will keep building to redline. Making the car Much easier to drive than the typical Turbo setup found in most.. all.. 'factory' cars, where boost hits hard then dies off off after 3500/4000 rpms.

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