hellbent345
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
brake pipes, flexis and fittings
Hi all,
Just been looking at all the different options for brake pipes, flexis, fittings etc and overwhelmed!
What do i need to complete a brake installation on my haynes roadster? Ive specced 2 master cylinders ~ 0.625 and 0.7, wilwood powerlites for the
front and sierra calipers on the rear. I know i need enough pipe to do the job - do i use 3/16 or 1/4? and is 25 ft enough? im going to use copper
pipe with extra support instead of copper nickel as i think ill need the softness as i cant afford an expensive flaring tool (which tool should i
get?)
With fittings, how many and what type do i need? what t pieces do i need, particularly for the brake lights? What fittings do i need for the brake
flexis? Is the furore chap still doing brake flexis? Where would i use banjo fittings? Basically i need a shopping list for the entire braking system!
Thank you for you help chaps
Alan
(Also, any indication on the cheapest place to get them from would be greatly recieved  )
|
|
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 12:40 PM |
|
|
personally i would just get complete flexi lines made up for the whole system. russ bost of furore cars does still do them, and supply everything.
what you can do is, have 1 line from master cylinder to back of the car, T piece which he can supply (3 or 4 take off, depending on brake light switch
position, which i'll come back to) then 1 hose to each caliper from the T.
same sort of deal for the front (3 hoses), or what i did was have banjo bolts on the front master cylinder, and a hose to each caliper from there.
banjos can be stacked.
for the pressure switch, you can get banjo bolt switches, and put it in the front master cylinder, or get a switch in the back T piece. i'd try
and put the switch in the front brakes, as they're higher pressure, so should come on quicker. i found them a bit difficult to get hold of the
right size, but i can't remember which one was hard to find, M10 for the T, or the unf thread for the master cyliinder...
someone will be on ain a sec to say its way more expensive, the pedal will be too soft blah blah blah, which i persoanlly feel is nonsense. its not
more expensive, once you take into account the copper, all the fittings for the joints, brake flaring tools, and then you still need flexi hoses
anyway, it works out cheaper. the hoses may expand slightly under pressure, but doubt it'll be noticable on such a small car, and there's
less joints to fail, and leak, and russ's ones are plastic coated braided hose, so grit can't get under the braid and wear away the
hose
[Edited on 7/2/11 by blakep82]
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
daviep
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 03:41 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
personally i would just get complete flexi lines made up for the whole system. russ bost of furore cars does still do them, and supply everything.
what you can do is, have 1 line from master cylinder to back of the car, T piece which he can supply (3 or 4 take off, depending on brake light switch
position, which i'll come back to) then 1 hose to each caliper from the T.
same sort of deal for the front (3 hoses), or what i did was have banjo bolts on the front master cylinder, and a hose to each caliper from there.
banjos can be stacked.
for the pressure switch, you can get banjo bolt switches, and put it in the front master cylinder, or get a switch in the back T piece. i'd try
and put the switch in the front brakes, as they're higher pressure, so should come on quicker. i found them a bit difficult to get hold of the
right size, but i can't remember which one was hard to find, M10 for the T, or the unf thread for the master cyliinder...
someone will be on ain a sec to say its way more expensive, the pedal will be too soft blah blah blah, which i persoanlly feel is nonsense. its not
more expensive, once you take into account the copper, all the fittings for the joints, brake flaring tools, and then you still need flexi hoses
anyway, it works out cheaper. the hoses may expand slightly under pressure, but doubt it'll be noticable on such a small car, and there's
less joints to fail, and leak, and russ's ones are plastic coated braided hose, so grit can't get under the braid and wear away the
hose
[Edited on 7/2/11 by blakep82]
That's way more expensive 
But seriously, that's way more expensive. Have a look HERE about £65
will get you enough materials to do the job 5 times and a flaring tool (just type flaring into the search box). You will still need flexi's to
the wheels though.
Davie
EDIT for typo in price.
[Edited on 7/2/11 by daviep]
[Edited on 7/2/11 by daviep]
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
|
|
|
mrwibble
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 03:53 PM |
|
|
copper brake line is 3/8th of an inch iirc, any motor factors will supply it in more than copious lengths, they'll have all the fittings aswell.
you can buy a brake pipe with nickel (* i think its nickel) mixed into the copper, which will make it corrode slower. you'll need the tools to
flare the edges, or you could as a friendly mechanic to do it for you, it only takes seconds.
cbsonline.com sell a little pipe bending tool which i found excellent, and made my pipes quite enjoyable. just remember you'll lose some length
on each bend, so be generous, any excess can be lost in another bend conversely. not sure about full flexi systems, but sounds like a very quick easy
install.
remember to check iva requirements for fixings, they like things to be well supported, and some people have even had probs with t pieces supported by
rivnuts, as there is no lock mech, this is obviously serious nit picking but worth bearing in mind.
there was a good tech guide in track driver if you can hold of a copy, must of been one of the last 2.
just another thought, watch out for brake lines, solid or flexi rubbing on chassis members etc, big no no. also standard brake cyl fittings with be
unf, whilst flexi hoses from brakes will be metric.
regards, Ed.
[Edited on 7/2/11 by mrwibble]
|
|
|
daviep
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 04:02 PM |
|
|
Sorry just re-read original post, don't have time to do a comprehensive list at the moment, I'll do it later if I'm not too pissed
Do you know the thread sizes for the master cylinders?
brake pipe is nearly always 3/16 of an inch.
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 04:03 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by daviep
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
personally i would just get complete flexi lines made up for the whole system. russ bost of furore cars does still do them, and supply everything.
what you can do is, have 1 line from master cylinder to back of the car, T piece which he can supply (3 or 4 take off, depending on brake light switch
position, which i'll come back to) then 1 hose to each caliper from the T.
same sort of deal for the front (3 hoses), or what i did was have banjo bolts on the front master cylinder, and a hose to each caliper from there.
banjos can be stacked.
for the pressure switch, you can get banjo bolt switches, and put it in the front master cylinder, or get a switch in the back T piece. i'd try
and put the switch in the front brakes, as they're higher pressure, so should come on quicker. i found them a bit difficult to get hold of the
right size, but i can't remember which one was hard to find, M10 for the T, or the unf thread for the master cyliinder...
someone will be on ain a sec to say its way more expensive, the pedal will be too soft blah blah blah, which i persoanlly feel is nonsense. its not
more expensive, once you take into account the copper, all the fittings for the joints, brake flaring tools, and then you still need flexi hoses
anyway, it works out cheaper. the hoses may expand slightly under pressure, but doubt it'll be noticable on such a small car, and there's
less joints to fail, and leak, and russ's ones are plastic coated braided hose, so grit can't get under the braid and wear away the
hose
[Edited on 7/2/11 by blakep82]
That's way more expensive
But seriously, that's way more expensive. Have a look HERE about £45
will get you enough materials to do the job 5 times and a flaring tool (just type flaring into the search box). You will still need flexi's to
the wheels though.
Davie
[Edited on 7/2/11 by daviep]
but when you add the cost of the flexi hoses to the cost of all the parts for the copper pipes, i can almost guarantee it works out more expensive
than just getting flexible pipes made up by russ
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 04:27 PM |
|
|
Our FS team managed to buy in braided hose components and make their own full-length braided flexis.
|
|
|
mrwibble
|
| posted on 7/2/11 at 09:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Our FS team managed to buy in braided hose components and make their own full-length braided flexis.
fs = formula s__________?
|
|
|
hellbent345
|
| posted on 8/2/11 at 09:15 AM |
|
|
Mrwibble FS is formula student as far as I'm aware? Thanks for the replies everyone, to be honest as long as the pedal isn't noticably
softer (will be track oriented car) and considering the Formula Student uses full flexis I'm hoping not! Then I think full flexis is the way to
go so I don't have to buy fittings copper pipe a flaring tool and 4 flexis!
|
|
|
mrwibble
|
| posted on 8/2/11 at 01:57 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by hellbent345
Mrwibble FS is formula student as far as I'm aware? Thanks for the replies everyone, to be honest as long as the pedal isn't noticably
softer (will be track oriented car) and considering the Formula Student uses full flexis I'm hoping not! Then I think full flexis is the way to
go so I don't have to buy fittings copper pipe a flaring tool and 4 flexis!
aww! wimp!
good luck matey.
|
|
|
|
