alan87
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| posted on 28/3/12 at 03:37 PM |
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Fisher Fury Under bonnet wiring
Hi all,
i know there are quite a few Fury owners on here, so before i start posting on some of the more specific (albeit very very quiet forums) i though i
would ask on here.
Does anybody have any pictures of their underbonnet wiring. Particulary the path and method of attatchment from the main loom to the lights and
indicators.
I have the Lemans bonnet and had never bothered looking at the wiring as it worked when i bought the car.
However the other day whilst i was out driving, the suspension compressed and the front left tyre caught the wiring and pulled it all out the
arch!!!!!!! Clearly the original route mine has been wired is not effective.
Any help much appreciated!
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 28/3/12 at 03:45 PM |
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Hi
I used the plastic square wiring attachments (with the double-sided tape backings). However, the tape isn't anything like strong enough, so you
peel the tape off (with a stanley knife) and epoxy them in place.
Then they're in there for good.
Also, I used a harness connector to make a split in the wiring between the chassis and the bonnet so the bonnet could be removed with ease. It was a
bit of an effort to solder and test, but the results were worthwhile. Makes engine maintenance a doddle.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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HowardB
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| posted on 28/3/12 at 03:55 PM |
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I am rewiring mine at the moment, and the intention is to use trailer cable from the bulkhead forward to an inline connector, as the previous post,
and then another run of trailer cable from the connector to the lights,... nice neat and tidy, I hope,...!
ps I had planned in fitting cable clamps to the reinforcement either side of the radiator slot, and using those to support the cable,...
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 28/3/12 at 04:05 PM |
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I went with Fisher's original advice of p-clips self tapped into the chassis. Weirdly, that's one of the places where the powder coat
didn't go manky.
This time, I'm going to weld tabs onto the chassis (underneath the members to run more or less out of sight), drill them 1mm larger than
necessary and use bolts and p-clips. This means when it gets powder coated again, I won't need to worry about rust.
It was a fairly decent original harness - just needed a couple of mods to make it slightly more practical.
RS Components are good for all those interesting connectors.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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scudderfish
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| posted on 28/3/12 at 04:11 PM |
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Mine runs across the top of the radiator, and down the side of the mounting frame. I then have a plug and socket so I can remove the bonnet. From
there I run some split convoluted tubing that is held in place by the backside of the number plate bolts.
Regards,
Dave
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alan87
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| posted on 28/3/12 at 06:48 PM |
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thanks for the quick replies gents. Much appreciated!!
If any of you have any pictures of what you've described, that would be the icing on the cake!
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