The Venom Project
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 05:45 PM |
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I seem to have lost my Brake Lights?
I have tail lights, indicators but for some reason I have lost Brake Lights, they were working before, any ideas? checked all the connections, I can
only think the brake light pressure switch might be buggered? Any ideas would be most appreciated, won't be going to Newark in it if I have no
brake lights. Everything else seems fine, checked fuses, what the hell can it be?
This is an R1 engine with original loom just extended, and everything was fine.
Cheers
Nick
It's not that i'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.....
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rodgling
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 05:47 PM |
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Use a multimeter to test the pressure switch?
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perksy
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 05:56 PM |
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Check the brake pressure switch
Might be worth considering fitting a micro switch instead
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AdrianH
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:01 PM |
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I would also suggest the pressure switch is at fault. Probably high resistance, try lots and I mean hard pedal pressure to see if the lights will
come on.
The contacts can soon burn out, as the switches are not as good as they used to be made in the original mini's etc.
If it is the switch consider helping it with a relay so the relay takes the switching current and not the pressure switch. The typical current drawn
is 3 to 3.5 Amps so can soon arc the contacts.
I found this of help from an MG forum
switch linky
Adrian
[Edited on 3-6-12 by AdrianH]
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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The Venom Project
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:01 PM |
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Just tested the rear brake light switch output and find when the pins are shorted together it works the brake lights, therefore its looking very much
like a faulty Hydraulic Brake Light Switch..... How very annoying indeed, its not even a year old
Cheers for the responses guys, Nosecone coming off tomorrow to get a closer look.
It's not that i'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.....
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AdrianH
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:04 PM |
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The other question is have you used an M10 fine thread one or a 1/8th NTP threaded one?
The metric ones are easier to get now.
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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The Venom Project
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:12 PM |
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I seem to think its an M10 one, but now considering fitting a conventional Brake Light Switch like a micro switch, as its been in use for about 2
months so its pretty shoddy if its packed up already. Where its located I cannot easily remove without taking the nose off, I would have expected it
to last much much longer.
Will know for sure tomorrow, was hoping for a nice relaxing long weekend, the joys of owning Kit Cars 
It's not that i'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.....
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The Venom Project
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:17 PM |
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Bonnet Switch
Just found one of those old style Moss Security bonnet switches, which I think will do the job fine from a suitable bracket I will try and make
tomorrow,
It's not that i'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.....
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perksy
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:18 PM |
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Make a bracket up and fit a micro switch, Solder some tails on the excisting wires if you need to lengthen them
It'll be a lot more reliable and less hassle in the future 
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Snuggs
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:21 PM |
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How is the switch orientated ?
If the terminals are pointing up then an air bubble can collect in the inlet of the switch.
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lotusmadandy
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:26 PM |
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My pressure switch stopped working after my sva.
I found that it had air trapped in the opening and
it wouldnt allow the connection to be made.
I turned the t upside down so the switch pointed at the
floor,it solved the problem.
Just a thought...........
Andy
[Edited on 3/6/12 by lotusmadandy]
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bob
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| posted on 3/6/12 at 06:32 PM |
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As above,exactly the same happened to me.
Although i didnt move the orientation of the pressure switch, i just bled the brakes properly to sort the problem.
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Peteff
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| posted on 4/6/12 at 08:04 AM |
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If you're replacing the switch with a mechanical one remove it and fit a bleed instead.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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iank
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| posted on 4/6/12 at 08:18 AM |
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If you persevere with the hydraulic switches buy an OEM VAG one. See http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=169898
[Edited on 4/6/12 by iank]
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 4/6/12 at 12:32 PM |
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I don't understand the theory behind air stopping these switches working. Pressure is pressure, and the air will always be at exactly the same
pressure as the brake fluid. I suppose if there is enough air that you wouldn't be able to generate sufficient pressure to operate the switch,
but then you wouldn't have any brakes either.
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