sdh2903
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 09:25 PM |
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caravan chassis derived trailer, twin or single axle?
I purchased an alko caravan chassis a while ago to build into a trailer for the kit as my current trailer is past it and is very heavy. The time has
come to get my finger it and get it done. However I'm wondering if it would be worth it/necessary to convert to twin axles?
I've seen a couple of chassis for sale locally one single axle one double, however the double axle ones are too long for my purpose I think?
Any views opinions welcome
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Westy1994
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 09:39 PM |
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In my racing days I used a single axle trailer, I did borrow a twin axle one but moving them around a tight paddock or your driveway at home is a pain
unless you wind the jockey wheel up so high it lifts the two front wheels, twin axles are more stable at speed and are less prone to snaking IMO. I
used my old single axle one for years, apart from a few blowouts it was fine. If I had need for one again, it would be a single.
Depends on the weight you will put onto it, if its a 7 type car a single is more than enough.
[Edited on 2/10/12 by Westy1994]
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sdh2903
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 10:01 PM |
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Yep just for a seven style and occasional General stuff moving so 600kgs max.
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Westy1994
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 10:09 PM |
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Well thats just 300kg per tyre, most modern tyres are more than capable in that department. I used to carry about 900kgs with the car and a huge tyre
rack loaded with wheels, finding tyres for that was a challenge but not impossible. As its a caravan chassis it will be braked, something that only
when you forget to remove the reverse pin from the piston stop you will be glad of. Not nice trying to stop 900kgs of unbraked weight behind you, I
forgot to remove the reverse pin only ONCE.....
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Nick DV
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 10:09 PM |
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I did exactly that. I took an Alko chassis, narrowed the axle to fit my drive way/garage and set the runners above the wheels and all done. Used it
last weekend and towed really well. See my archive for a couple of pics. I did purchase new 10" wheels/tyres and they are rated at 1000kg per
pair, and a new head for the coupling (£27) to be on the safe side. Total weight of car & trailer is 800kg.
Cheers, Nick 
[Edited on 2/10/12 by Nick DV]
"The force will be with you, always!"
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mark chandler
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 10:13 PM |
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When I made my trailer I built brackets to support twin axle, 4 years later and it still runs single braked 
Much easier to move around, just make sure you have the correct tyres and suspension units.
Also when you build up do not forget to include a decent sized tube, 4" diameter maybe, a bit of old lamp post to span the centre of the chassis
if not already fitted for the van, this stops the bed from twisting.
Regards mark
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sdh2903
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| posted on 2/10/12 at 10:31 PM |
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I've been taking inspiration from this guy's build: although thankfully not his kit build! Just substituting in the caravan chassis and
axle.
http://www.davebence.co.uk/trailer_project_2.htm
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owelly
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 07:49 AM |
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IMHO, twin axle trailers are much harder to balance. If your tow vehicles towball is low due to the vehicles design, weight on-board or the
trailer's weight, then the weight of the trailer is on the front axle so the trailer tends to 'snake'. Likewise, if the towball is a
bit high, the nose weight of the trailer increases. Also, the weight of the trailer increases with more axles, as does the maintenance of the trailer,
plus tyres etc.
For your application, I'd stick with a single braked axle trailer.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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andylancaster3000
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 12:04 PM |
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Finished a conversion of a single axle caravan chassis a few months back and very happy with it. Can’t remember the make of the chassis but it has
Knott componentry on it and tows beautifully. I will try and dig a few pictures out if you like.
The chassis I found turned out to be spot on as car trailer. Narrow enough axle that it creeps into a single garage, wide enough that the single
seater just squeezes between the wheels and it has full length longitudinals that match track also so the bed/runners don’t have to be overly
substantial. Think the whole thing came in at 260Kgs and cost about the same all in.
What are peoples thoughts on the weight plates of converted caravans? My chassis was plated to an amount I think dictated by the conventional tyres it
used. Though I have kept to this weight, I have since fitted heavier commercial tyres and the componentry is rated much higher. Do I need to maintain
the same weight on the plate or would you get away with plating it to the now weakest component (axle: 900kg) since it is modified?
Also be weary of rules regarding trailer MOTs that have recently come into force.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 02:17 PM |
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Cheers for all the input, any pics would be great. I've settled on a single axle and have started to put a shopping list together and I've
requested some quotes for the steel pressings. It's bizarre I've had quotes for 180 ranging up to 400 for the exact same bits. I was
expecting a bit of range in price but not that much.
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andylancaster3000
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 06:07 PM |
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IMAG0331 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0332 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0381 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0411 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0378 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0425 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0423 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0426 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0429 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
IMAG0528 by andylancaster3000,
on Flickr
[Edited on 3/10/12 by andylancaster3000]
[Edited on 3/10/12 by andylancaster3000]
[Edited on 3/10/12 by andylancaster3000]
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 06:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Westy1994
Well thats just 300kg per tyre, most modern tyres are more than capable in that department. I used to carry about 900kgs with the car and a huge tyre
rack loaded with wheels, finding tyres for that was a challenge but not impossible. As its a caravan chassis it will be braked, something that only
when you forget to remove the reverse pin from the piston stop you will be glad of. Not nice trying to stop 900kgs of unbraked weight behind you, I
forgot to remove the reverse pin only ONCE.....
There can't be that many caravans around that have manual brake overrides. Even the old 1976 Sprite Musketeer that we disposed over recently had
auto-reverse brakes - basically the back-plate could rotate, releasing the brakes when they were applied and the wheel rotated backwards.
I do however remember as a child, with the van before that, sitting on the gas bottles, holding the reverse collar down whenever my father reversed,
as the collar often popped free and the brakes would suddenly go on otherwise.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 08:34 PM |
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Pics look great, i dont have quite as much left of the chassis as you so a bit more fabrication required.
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Westy1994
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 09:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
There can't be that many caravans around that have manual brake overrides. Even the old 1976 Sprite Musketeer that we disposed over recently had
auto-reverse brakes - basically the back-plate could rotate, releasing the brakes when they were applied and the wheel rotated backwards.
I do however remember as a child, with the van before that, sitting on the gas bottles, holding the reverse collar down whenever my father reversed,
as the collar often popped free and the brakes would suddenly go on otherwise.
Well this was the mid 80's and the converted caravan trailer I had was pretty old by that point. Yes I too used to help my dad with the reverse
brake bit, on the trailer I had for the car, I had rigged up a pin system that locked that collar , so the brakes would not operate when reversed...As
I said, I only forgot to remove it the once.
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unijacko67
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 09:31 PM |
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Twin axle trailer
I’m on with twin axle trailer on alko caravan chassis, lots of work, but I have tailored it to just fit my car. Also I have made it tilt bed. Pictures
on my archive.
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 09:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Westy1994
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
There can't be that many caravans around that have manual brake overrides. Even the old 1976 Sprite Musketeer that we disposed over recently had
auto-reverse brakes - basically the back-plate could rotate, releasing the brakes when they were applied and the wheel rotated backwards.
I do however remember as a child, with the van before that, sitting on the gas bottles, holding the reverse collar down whenever my father reversed,
as the collar often popped free and the brakes would suddenly go on otherwise.
Well this was the mid 80's and the converted caravan trailer I had was pretty old by that point. Yes I too used to help my dad with the reverse
brake bit, on the trailer I had for the car, I had rigged up a pin system that locked that collar , so the brakes would not operate when reversed...As
I said, I only forgot to remove it the once.
You used to be able to buy a solenoid operated mechanism to connect to a switch or the reversing lights of the car to automatically lock the brakes
off when reversing. As a child it was much more fun sitting on the gas bottles though!
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sdh2903
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 09:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by unijacko67
I’m on with twin axle trailer on alko caravan chassis, lots of work, but I have tailored it to just fit my car. Also I have made it tilt bed. Pictures
on my archive.
Very impressive stuff can I ask how much you paid for your steel runners?
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unijacko67
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 10:11 PM |
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Runners cost just over £300 plus galv, so it will set me back a few quid by the time its done. Caravan was £140. Still need lights, winch, and stuff.
Cheeper to buy one ready done, but it's made to measure now. Cheers
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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owelly
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| posted on 3/10/12 at 10:52 PM |
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I used caravan axle and tow hitch but made a cutting list for new sheets of steel. 2mm thick for the decks and 3mm for the chassis components. It cost
me £20 for the steel suppliers to cut and bend the steel and once built, a further £85 to get it hot-dip galvanised.Plus the cost of the sheet
steel.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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