-matt
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 07:25 PM |
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08 R1 Clutch/ engine cutting out
I had my first road drive in my Indy R1 today, and one thing i noticed was the clutch is toast 
All i had to do was touch the throttle moderately in any gear and the clutch was slipping, so i will replace the clutch/plates, and preferably some
beefier springs.
Is a kit like this what i want :
http://www.
ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-YZF-R1-2007-2008-BARNETT-CLUTCH-KIT-LTD-/290435702970?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item439f5120ba
Will that kit do the job, or do i need something else? could anyone advice on this?
Also i had a problem where, once the engine was very warm, the engine was idling so low, it was stalling, the only way was to keep constant throttle
on.
I understand this is a common problem with the 08 R1's with electronic throttle/ no idle screw. What is the best way to overcome this?
The only way i can think of is to fit a widget between the throttle cable, so the throttle is constantly on slightly?, but this would mean the engine
would rev quite high cold.
So is there a better fix?
Cheers
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/10/12 at 09:24 PM |
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Generaly it's thought that genuine yamaha plates and steels are the best but use Barnett spring kit. Have you got enough free play in the cable?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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renetom
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 07:38 AM |
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clutch
Hi
As adithorp say's check there is freeplay , the R1 clutch is a bit like an on & off switch
and easy to set up wrong, we have an older R1 2001 carbed version & the standard clutch is fine
even 2 up there has never been any sign of slipping .
The conversion is of course up to you.
had designed a longer clutch lever, which should give more feel to the clutch
However my son say's he has got used to it now, so it was never done.
See our archive
 
Good luck
René
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-matt
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 08:45 AM |
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Its not a cable issue, there is a fair bit of slack.
But i do remember when i took the clutch apart during the build, i noticed a couple of the steel plates were discoloured/a purple burned colour.
So i think its likely the clutch was given some abuse when in bike form!
So I'm best getting the plates/steels straight from yamaha, then just buy the barnett spring kit?
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adithorp
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| posted on 17/10/12 at 09:32 AM |
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Yes, thats what I'd do.
People have had problems with aftermarket plates not lasting long. If there's blue-ing on the steels they should be changed.
Mine started slipping after about 3-4000 miles in the car (just occationally on full throttle) with the standard set-up. I changed just the springs
and it's still going strong at 18000miles and lots of abuse later. Getting the pedal leverage right so you have a reasonably long movement
helps. Otherwise you have a very "binary" clutch (either on or off) and leads to lots of slipping/revs to set off.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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-matt
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| posted on 18/10/12 at 05:45 PM |
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I ordered some new genuine yamaha clutch plates and steels from my local yamaha dealer earlier.
My only issue is, he said something about i need to install what he's ordered me, then measure the stack, then he will order the last 2 plates
dependant on this measurement?
Is this right? never heard about this before.
Oh and I've just taken the clutch apart, and this is what my steel plates look like!
Oh and also I noticed the 6 spring bolts were a bit loose! I'm guessing this was probably the main cause of the slipping?
[Edited on 18/10/12 by -matt]
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