rodgling
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| posted on 17/2/13 at 10:17 PM |
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expensive rear pads necessary?
I've just upgraded my front pads from the-cheapest-pads-i-could-find-on-ebay to Carbonne Lorraine CL5+. I've had to dial the bias a long
way towards the back and I'm still not convinced the rears are doing enough work - do most people fit expensive pads all round, or just on the
front and use more basic/cheap pads on the back?
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Custardpants
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| posted on 17/2/13 at 10:41 PM |
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Im sure some will advocate running the same compound all round, but I run cheap pads at the back because my engine has a lot of natural engine braking
going into the rear axle. At first I couldn't work out why the car was so prone to oversteer unless the throttle was feathered slightly.
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RK
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 01:37 AM |
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normally, I wouldn't think the rear did a lot of braking, which is why I haven't replaced my rears with racing compounds either. The
different compound made braking a lot better, although as usual, you really have to stomp on it compared to a regular car.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 07:40 AM |
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The reason for matching front and rear pads is to ensure the front/rear brake bias doesn’t change when the brakes warm up.
One of things I found with brake balance bars is that their effect becomes much less sensitive the further away from the centre position they are
adjusted.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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r1_pete
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 08:20 AM |
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Same pads all round would maintain brake balance, and effectively reduce pedal pressure required once up to working temperature.
But, be careful your brakes then dont out perform your tyres & Suspension, or its all counter productive.
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motorcycle_mayhem
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 09:16 AM |
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Reading that, I'd ask the question - is the front braking too severe?
The standard Sierra caliper at the back normally does a great job on my cars, regardless of pad, with a 0.7" master.
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rodgling
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 10:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The reason for matching front and rear pads is to ensure the front/rear brake bias doesn’t change when the brakes warm up.
Shouldn't be an issue as the CL5+ pads are supposed to work from cold and have a fairly flat response to temperature.
quote:
Originally posted by RK
normally, I wouldn't think the rear did a lot of braking
I've heard it's about 33% on a 7, so, enough that it needs to be right.
Hmm... probably more testing required.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 11:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The reason for matching front and rear pads is to ensure the front/rear brake bias doesn’t change when the brakes warm up.
Shouldn't be an issue as the CL5+ pads are supposed to work from cold and have a fairly flat response to temperature.
Whereas cheap road pads work well from cold but quickly fall off as they get hot...
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 18/2/13 at 05:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Custardpants
my engine has a lot of natural engine braking going into the rear axle. At first I couldn't work out why the car was so prone to oversteer
unless the throttle was feathered slightly.
That relay caught me out in the damp the first couple of times.
[Edited on 18/2/13 by ceebmoj]
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rodgling
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| posted on 19/2/13 at 03:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The reason for matching front and rear pads is to ensure the front/rear brake bias doesn’t change when the brakes warm up.
Shouldn't be an issue as the CL5+ pads are supposed to work from cold and have a fairly flat response to temperature.
Whereas cheap road pads work well from cold but quickly fall off as they get hot...
That's a fair point, I do want the rears to continue to contribute after a few hard laps.
So I've now got a set of rears too (thanks to clbraking.co.uk for the fast delivery), will try and get some test driving in at the weekend if
the weather stays nice.
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