alfablack
|
| posted on 28/6/13 at 07:45 PM |
|
|
sylva stylus chassis rebuild
Hi pics to follow I am starting to strip an early stylus down and was just writing a list and trying to identify parts
who's front hubs. and ball joints.
also I would not mind some adjustable front wishbones does anybody do them or do you know where can I get the the relevant parts from
|
|
|
|
|
Schrodinger
|
| posted on 29/6/13 at 10:22 AM |
|
|
Hi
You could try posting on
http://www.clubstylus.be/forum/index.php
Keith
Aviemore
|
|
|
SCAR
|
| posted on 4/7/13 at 03:35 PM |
|
|
Your rear axle is mk1/2 escort, cant remember the ratio
The front hubs uprights are modified mk1/2 escort with nil miles since powder coating but obviously been stood for several years
Likewise discs and ball joints were new but have been standing
Upper rocking arms, lower wishbones, rear trailing arms and all associated bushes were new, nil miles but have been standing.
Steering rack and column is escort
I would think your first job is to get the body off and see which chassis members and steel panels need replacing.
I think I have a build manual for a Sylva Phoenix which shares a lot of its design principles/parts with the stylus if I can find it I will take a
copy.
Check the gearbox it may not be a type 9, could be a four speed I honestly cant remember as I never drove the car more than 50yds.
|
|
|
alfablack
|
| posted on 4/7/13 at 03:49 PM |
|
|
Hi scar.
I am going to take body of I have just signed on to clubstylus and have been sent dimensions and pics for the flip front just got to build up some
dutch courage and get grinder out.
then the body can come of to sort chassis.
thanks for the info on the running gear. the box is 4 speed that is going.
any help is very much appreciated
john
|
|
|
me!
|
| posted on 4/7/13 at 04:07 PM |
|
|
Rob on the clubstylus forum makes adjustable lower wishbones, he is making me a set at the moment. Front hubs are part of the mk2 Escort struts. The
lower ball joint is from a Sherpa van, and the upper can vary according to the age of the car. Either Metro or Chevette I think, but I might be
wrong.
I wouldn't cut the body until you've finished the chassis work and rebuilt it to the spec you want, but it's up to you!
|
|
|
alfablack
|
| posted on 4/7/13 at 05:43 PM |
|
|
Hi ME!
would very much like a set of adjustables just need to contact the right people.
is there any advantage of using the RMD uprights from rally design. I would like slightly wider front track but I can address that later as well as
putting the scc wider rear arches
the front end I prefer to do it while the body is still mounted solid. ?
I don't want to make a monumental cockup but why would it make sense to do later when the front chassis should remain the same bar some
strengthening and a new floor mounted pedal box. or am I just not seeing something
engine is a choice of 2.0 xe 250hp. or 3.0 s type v6 again same sort of power and size.weight
|
|
|
DH2
|
| posted on 5/7/13 at 07:50 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by alfablack
is there any advantage of using the RMD uprights from rally design.
The advantage is they are lighter. The main disadvantage is that they are different geometry.
quote:
Originally posted by alfablack
I would like slightly wider front track but I can address that later as well as putting the scc wider rear arches
Depends how you wish to address it and how much wider. The RT bodykit (if you can get one) is something like +40mm each side - I would not want to be
doing that with wheel spacers.
quote:
Originally posted by alfablack
the front end I prefer to do it while the body is still mounted solid. ?
I don't want to make a monumental cockup but why would it make sense to do later when the front chassis should remain the same bar some
strengthening and a new floor mounted pedal box. or am I just not seeing something
Presumably the body will be mounted solid when you put it back on too?! Though doing it first would probably be my choice, on the basis that making
chassis mods for the flip front after you've put it all back together would be somewhat tedious.
It doesn't really matter where you cut it, within reason, as long as you leave yourself enough space to be able to engineer joining it back
together again.
DH2
|
|
|
