carlknight1982
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| posted on 26/11/13 at 06:36 PM |
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Pinto overbore
Does a standard 2.0 block Have enough meat for a 2.1 overbore?
Logic will get you from a A to B
Imagination will take you everywhere.
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jacko
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| posted on 26/11/13 at 07:31 PM |
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Do you mean the 2L block or the 205 block ?
the 2l block has thinner liners
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carlknight1982
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| posted on 26/11/13 at 07:45 PM |
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Standard 2l non 200 non 205 block
Logic will get you from a A to B
Imagination will take you everywhere.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 26/11/13 at 10:10 PM |
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I think it can be done, but its not recommended as the liners can be too thin (and that would be an expensive mistake  )
but 205 blocks aren't that hard to find yet (also the rods found in the 205 blocks are a little stronger)
[Edited on 26/11/2013 by mcerd1]
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snapper
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| posted on 26/11/13 at 10:23 PM |
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2.1 is not required for big power if I was doing it again I would go forged pistons + 1mm or 1.5mm
Only the 205 injection engine had the better rods ( the ones with F cast on them) and then only good for 7,200 or occasional 7,500
Don't obsess over 2.1
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Not Anumber
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| posted on 27/11/13 at 09:47 AM |
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The standard 2.0 can be bored out to 2.1 if required, people were overboring pinto engines for years before the 205 block was introduced.
Go with what Snapper says though. Irrespective of the block, most workshops would need to carry out 2 to 3 seperate bore operations to get a standard
bore out to a true 2.1 and then theres the issue of finding pistons that will do the job wthout the need for further machining. Thats quite a bit of
money - alright to justify if you are taking the rest of the engine upto a full race spec but it's not the part of the engine to spend money on
if you are just looking to enliven the engine with another 30 to 50 bhp affordably.
If your block needs a rebore then a + 0.5mm with new pistons will do the job nicely.
If you are looking for more power affordably you would be best to spend a bit on the head and cam. Even changing to the later injected head (the one
that came with the 205 block) will improve things. Skim it a bit to raise compression, add a fast road cam then look at carburation.
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chillis
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| posted on 27/11/13 at 10:25 AM |
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Can be done on a non 205 block but early engines such as those from the 1970's suffered from core shift and there was a much greater risk of
failure.
RJD used to do 2.1 engine kits based on the non 205 block (as at that time they were still a bit too new) with reasonable success.
If your're racing or competing then go for a 205 block - if its just for fast road then a non 205 block should be Ok
If you're after a 2.1 205 block I might be able to help
BV.
Never under estimate the ingenuity of an idiot!
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hkp57
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| posted on 27/11/13 at 10:49 AM |
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Even removing all that material out of it the engine will still weigh as much as a boat anchor and be less reliable.
If you compare cost per BHP gained i would go the route of swamping the pig iron for a zetec, keep your gearbox and carbs and swap to the lighter
alloy engine.
[Edited on 27/11/13 by hkp57]
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Not Anumber
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| posted on 27/11/13 at 11:18 AM |
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I'm a fan of the Zetec engine but there is little virtue in making sweeping statements without pointing out there is a fair bit more to be
considered in a conversion than just the cost of getting hold of a useable Zetec lump.
Inlet: You will need to lay out for the right manifold and carb/ s.
ignition & engine wiring loom.
exhaust,
bonnet cut outs; replace bonnet or fill in the large hole, match gel coat or paint.
Flywheel and clutch, is it right for a type 9 as it is ? Many use the CVH flywheel which would have to be obtained
Engine mounts, not a big thing but will need to be done.
water pipes etc.
Shorten sump and oil pickup etc
Against that the prospect of some head work on a pinto to bring it up to Zetec levels of bhp makes a lot of sense.
[Edited on 27/11/2013 by Not Anumber]
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mcerd1
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| posted on 27/11/13 at 11:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Not Anumber
If you are looking for more power affordably you would be best to spend a bit on the head and cam. Even changing to the later injected head (the one
that came with the 205 block) will improve things. Skim it a bit to raise compression, add a fast road cam then look at carburation.
^^ +1 and if your still not convinced by that these are my costs so far... (starting with a 205 block EFI engine)
piper 285 cam kit = £220, supposed to give about £22+ bhp with the right carbs and setup
The stock EFI head is worth a little bit of power (better port shapes) I've been told anywhere from 5 to 10 bhp
my head is supposed to be an unleaded one from new (code stamped on it and I know the car it came from) so its just had a clean, bronze guides and 3
angle valve seats and a skim done for now (more power to be had later with porting once its on the road)
cost ~£10 per valve + the guides and I think the clean/skim was about £50
skim should give me ~11:1 CR with the pistons flush to the top of the block and a 1mm head gasket (so that means 97/98 octane petrol)
zx9r carb's with very shinny manifold = £350 (bogg bros)
zx9r fuel pump = £19
zx9r airbox = £30 (to make make up the carb backplate with)
s/h sausage air filter = £40
total for fuel = ~£440
megajolt v3 - £90
MJ donor bits £30
new plugs + leads = £30
trigger wheel = £25
total for spark = ~£175
I probably should have just rebored the block to +.5 and built it up with new pistons and bearings but I got carried away and went for a 2.1 with lots
of fancy bits.....
the following should give me big gains in strength and some small gains in power/torque - but no where near the gains you can get from the head...
this make no financial sense at all - i just did it to see what I could get out of the old pinto 
s/h cosworth Conrods = £60 (good for 9k+ rpm)
ARP Conrod bolts =£80
good s/h cosworth crankshaft =£245 (9 bolt flywheel)
Accralite Forged Pistons (93mm - give 2090cc) = £490
94.5mm Head Gasket (needed for 2.1) = £36
Pinto Steel Flywheel (to suit YB crank) = £145
Ring Gear = £32
ARP Flywheel bolts = £35
Cosworth 2wd Oil Pump (new) = £175
Cosworth 2wd Pickup Pipe (new) = £45 (needed to go with cossie rods)
then in one lump:
Skim Block
Crank re-grind
Bottom end balance
Block re-bore (for 93mm pistons)
Oil scraper plate
Oil pick-up mod.
Valve guides
3 angle valve seats
New valves (std.)
New clutch (inc. balance)
Steel adjustable cam pulley (Kent)
New bearings
Head bolts
total for machining/supply new bearings etc = £1000
+ Dummy build and shorten the new pistons to suit = £94 (cossie rods are too long for pinto pistons )
really not needed at all but I wanted them:
High Torque Starter = £110
small Alternator = £110
custom alloy crank pulley with trigger wheel mount £180 (my own design and hard anodised)
I'll let you all know if this all works together as soon as I can get some proper garage time again
[Edited on 27/11/2013 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 27/11/2013 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 27/11/2013 by mcerd1]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 27/11/13 at 06:17 PM |
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205 engine in the for sale section at the moment
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