biksz
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 10:45 AM |
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2l pinto gets too hot
hi i have fitted a brand new polo rad with the fan switch in the rad new rwaterpump new headgasket,i have no header tank but got a filler neck in the
top hose from thermostat to top of rad, the head seems to get over 100+.i was wanting to no where everyone is putting their fan switch in the rad or
neer the thremostat? as the rad is not as hot as the head when the fan kicks in thanks in advance as it is giving big head ache now and need to get it
sorted before put back opn the road.
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carlknight1982
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 11:28 AM |
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i had loads of issues with my pinto overheating,
i ended up getting a cool running thermostat from burton power a lower temp fan switch for the rad, moving the rad fan to the rear of the rad and
sitting the rad vertical as mine was slanted back slightly
i also fitted an ashton racing water pump and now she runs nice and sweet.
another thing to check is the coolant take off on the inlet manifold side of the head and i would probably fit a header tank to help eradicate air
locks as having a filler neck in the top pipe is a little low.
i have heard people sometimes drill a couple of small holes in the disc of the thermostat to allow air bleed, i havent done this myself.
Logic will get you from a A to B
Imagination will take you everywhere.
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snapper
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 01:25 PM |
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Have you got the 16mm pipe from pump to head inlet side?
If no, fit it
If yes add T piece with cap
Rad is lower than head water jacket so header tank would help
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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keith777
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 01:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by carlknight1982
i had loads of issues with my pinto overheating,
i ended up getting a cool running thermostat from burton power a lower temp fan switch for the rad, moving the rad fan to the rear of the rad and
sitting the rad vertical as mine was slanted back slightly
i also fitted an ashton racing water pump and now she runs nice and sweet.
another thing to check is the coolant take off on the inlet manifold side of the head and i would probably fit a header tank to help eradicate air
locks as having a filler neck in the top pipe is a little low.
i have heard people sometimes drill a couple of small holes in the disc of the thermostat to allow air bleed, i havent done this myself.
Hi, do you have any more details on the Ashton racing water pump,price & where from, thanks
cheers Keith
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carlknight1982
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 01:41 PM |
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I brought it from Ashton racing direct I think it was about£80
Edit - Ashton contact email address
Ashtonmobile@hotmail.co.uk
[Edited on 16/3/14 by carlknight1982]
Logic will get you from a A to B
Imagination will take you everywhere.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 02:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by biksz
hi i have fitted a brand new polo rad with the fan switch in the rad new rwaterpump new headgasket,i have no header tank but got a filler neck in the
top hose from thermostat to top of rad, the head seems to get over 100+.i was wanting to no where everyone is putting their fan switch in the rad or
neer the thremostat? as the rad is not as hot as the head when the fan kicks in thanks in advance as it is giving big head ache now and need to get it
sorted before put back opn the road.
The thermostat won't open at the correct temperature unless you have a by pass pipe.
On Fords from about 1970 onwards the heater pipe work acted as the thermostat bypass, if you don't have a heater or have an old fashioned water
valve controlled heater the thermostat won't get hot enough to open until the engine is almost boiling.
A quick and dirty fix to get round this is by drilling a couple of small (2mm to 2.5mm) holes in the thermostat valve plate this allows hot coolant
to reach and flow around the thermostat enabling to reach opening temperature.
If you have water valve controlled heater the correct work around is to insert a T piece into the each of the flow and return pipes for the heater
and use a short length of hose to join the 3rd leg of each T to the other forming an alternative path for the water flow that would normally flow
through thre heater when the heater valve is turned off.
If you don't have a heater fitted the correct fix is to loop a 5/8" (16mm) hose from the head to the small inlet on the water pump.
[Edited on 16/3/14 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 04:24 PM |
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Check the thermostat is the right way round as well, it's easy to get wrong on the pinto 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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sjmatthews
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 05:09 PM |
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Also, make sure cool air can freely enter the radiator. Some types of expanded grille mesh can be very restrictive.
Then make sure hot air can escape by having vents in the side/top at the rear of the bonnet.
82 deg stat makes a difference, as does a decent header tank and internally mounted sucker fan 
I'll be in the garage dear!
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snapper
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 06:58 PM |
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Drilling a small hole in the top of the thermostat also aloes air to bleed out helping to stop air locks.
Engine bays are generally smaller than the donor and airflow through more resticted
I found I needed a big radiator, an earlier opening thermostat, heat wrap on exhaust manifold, an oil cooler, ducting air so it can only go through ®
the radiator not round it and finally a way of hot air leaving the bay
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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davidimurray
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| posted on 16/3/14 at 07:26 PM |
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I had similar problems with my pinto. The issue was that there was no flow getting to the thermostat and hence it wouldn't open. I connected the
bleed on the thermostat housing back to my header tank. Water is constantly pumped through this line so it warms the thermostat. I also have the
heater hose looped to the manifold. This setup works beautifully.
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biksz
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| posted on 17/3/14 at 06:55 PM |
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ran it up tnite it takes 10 minutes to get to 100c and seems to pressurise rather quick, the rad is luke warm at the top and cold at the bottom so im
tyhinking of water flow? amd snapper i have fitted a t peice for the air bleed.
[Edited on 17/3/14 by biksz]
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carlknight1982
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| posted on 17/3/14 at 07:34 PM |
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Have you tested your thermostat in boiling water or with a heat gun to ensure it is working because it sounds like it isnt
Logic will get you from a A to B
Imagination will take you everywhere.
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biksz
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| posted on 17/3/14 at 07:49 PM |
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yeah first thing I did before fitting it.
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maximus1
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| posted on 17/3/14 at 08:53 PM |
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Heat gun
Is head really at 100 ? I put 82 thermosta from Bruton in mine with two small holes for flow
But I had heat gun on head and gauge is ten degrees out . Plus when stood I have switch on dash
So can put fan on at 90 and stood still it will stay at 85 if I wait for fan switch I worrie it will get to hot
Fan switch is in just for back up
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biksz
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| posted on 18/3/14 at 08:46 PM |
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waiting for a infa red thermometer to land so can run up and check but till then cant do much more than double check timing and mixture but not sure
how many degress to do it think its either 4 or 8 at minute.
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maximus1
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| posted on 18/3/14 at 10:17 PM |
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Where are you based
Where are you based you can borrow my snapon one, I will check
My paper work from h and h but think mine is 12 degrees
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biksz
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| posted on 19/3/14 at 07:04 AM |
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thanks for the offer maximus i am at doncaster bit far i think its ok i can wait for the one on order to land as no rush i got two month to get it
sorted
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