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Author: Subject: Supercharging 4age
max2503

posted on 24/5/14 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
Supercharging 4age

Gents,

Been thinking lately of supercharging a 4age, I currently have a 16v under the bonnet and was toying with the idea of supercharging either that unit or upgrade to a 20v. I know that it would be easier to probably buy a 4agze to start with, but fancy putting on an Eaton unit.

Thought I would open this up to the floor for some suggestions, pro’s and con’s to either or.

Many Thanks

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D Beddows

posted on 24/5/14 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
sell the 4AGE and bell housing and buy an MX5 engine (designed as a turbo engine) and box - MUCH easier and the MX5 stuff will be seriously cheap leaving lots of money for a decent turbo/charger install

That's the sensible option but

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bi22le

posted on 24/5/14 at 01:22 PM Reply With Quote
Hi,

Having a 4age 20V and wanting to supercharge in the future I have read the net to DEATH about this so know the various options.

Have a look on here, using search, or posts regarding this as there is some good information.

I will list the urban myths and simple factsfor you to start with:

There are only 2 types of 4age block. a 7-rib and a 3-rib. The 7-rib is the stronger and the best place to start.
You can exchange the heads (16 and 20V) but you have to be careful as the ports and valves can cause problems
There are only 2 types of crack and both are very strong
There are 4 types of conrod and actually the strongest ones are the most common
4AGZE are hard engines to get in the UK. It may be easier and cheaper to build equivalent using spare parts
Driftworks.co.uk is UK based and a very good source for parts and info on these engines.


As I have a 20V and fancy the challenge of fabricating the required parts I was going to make something pretty unique.

I have brought some stock rods that are thicker than the slim line 20V. I am going to a fresh build with these and keep my pistons. The stock 20V CR is 11:1. I am then going to lower the CR slightly to reduce Knock risk. I am going to source an Eaton M62 (M45 is fine but I am aiming for higher boost). Bolt and fabricate all to fit. I will be running a waste gate on the inlet plenum with a feedback pipe to SC input, this will regulate my boost to 2 bar while allowing a faster boost rise.

I expect approx. 250bhp with good early torque levels. I also already have an OMEX 710 and ITB so should get a good level of tune.

If I was you:

Check to see exactly what block, valve size and CR you have.
Speak to a guy on Ebay that is breaking Mk1 MR2 cheap and get some pistons, rods, block to build up a good level.
Then go from there.

If you have any other questions, let me know.





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

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Worzey

posted on 24/5/14 at 04:56 PM Reply With Quote
I went with the Rotrex setup from RAW/OMEX for my silver top 20v. It's not the cheapest option but it's proven and reliable.

Due to other work on the top end of the engine mine made some very good power. It dyno'd at 260bhp but was de-tuned slightly to 248bhp for longevity. TBH it can't say I miss the 12bhp as the car is totally insane.

Supercharging totally changes the character of the car and with more work I've heard 400bhp is possible. However the law of diminishing returns means this would cost an arm, a leg and probably my wife.





Caterham R400

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jeffw

posted on 24/5/14 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
Someone mention Rotrex ?






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