Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Engine Honing Advice

posted on 29/6/14 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
Engine Honing Advice

Hi All,

Got to the stage of my motorbike build where I'm doing the final bits to the engine before rebuild.

Its a 70's CB360 engine, and I'm looking to get the cylinders honed for my new rings.

Is this something I can do fairly easily myself in a vice with a drill and hone? Or should it be something I get done properly?

Can anyone recommend what tools I would need to do it myself?

Alternatively and recommendations for machine shops in the west midlands (I'm based in Leamington Spa) that can do the work and what sort of price I'm looking at for 2 cylinders?


View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

posted on 29/6/14 at 05:28 PM Reply With Quote
I have done a few engines with a borrowed tool and a battery drill. About 20 seconds a cylinder with a squirt of WD40, keeping it going up and down.
You can get a large flapwheel type, I used this type 394&w=600&tbnid=CfrG61gpqVU_bM%3A&zoom=1&docid=uXiFRWh7hYnQzM&ei=20qwU7qCI4nuOZTGgYgI&tbm=isch&ved=0CFIQMygoMCg&iact=r c&uact=3&dur=2407&page=3&start=39&ndsp=21
I don't like the look of the ones with 3 flat stones, not sure why.....

Saying that, if you can't borrow a tool, it may be cost effective to get it done.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
mark chandler

posted on 29/6/14 at 07:11 PM Reply With Quote
If you are just breaking the glaze on the bores I would just use a bit if wet and dry, do not go up and down circular sweeps required.

You can get honing tools, three sprung legs with cutting stones that you just whizz around in a drill and drag up and down the bores.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

posted on 30/6/14 at 04:51 AM Reply With Quote
I did this yesterday
3 leg hone, you should use corded drill, live the bores, don't stop drill in the bore pull it out spinning
YouTube video to see how it's done.
Took more than 20 seconds a bore to get the marks out and produce fine hone pattern.
Hone rotation for final passes is slower than you thing
Up & down movement faster

Biggest issue is cleaning the bore out after, fine metal and stone grit, my parts washer pump died so cloth and oil, then thinners ( I had tins of spray electrical safety cleaner ) then my lateral thinking solution of a suit lint roller, over and over again, black with metal and stone, changing sheet for every bore until it became clear, at this point it stuck to the bore wall, thinners to remove glue, final check with hand,use sheet of sticky in hand as a tack rag if required, more thinners until clear.
Bore goes from dull to bright as stone and metal dust removed.
Oil the bores prepare to gap new rings and check piston slap.
Job done.

I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

posted on 30/6/14 at 07:47 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers for the advice guys,

Will be giving this a go myself then over the next week!

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply

go to top

Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [ 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.