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Author: Subject: Differential leaking
shindha

posted on 8/11/14 at 10:49 PM Reply With Quote
Differential leaking

Hi, I have a differential leak it is leaking along the drive pinion, so I am assuming it is leaking through the collapsible spacer, to remove this would I will need to remove the drive pinion nut. I have checked the front oil seal and that is dry therefore not leaking. I have been advised that this does not form a seal and that it just needs a bit of sealant along it but cant figure out where, could some one assist.

I have had the diff for a while but not running in a car, it has been sitting in the garage.

Now my quandary is should I get the diff reconditioned if I get the leak fixed by a professional or should I try to replace the collapsible spacer myself. If so how difficult is it and has anybody done this.

One part of me says to get it refurbished whilst it’s out of the car, on the other hand I don’t want to spend money if it’s necessary, so I have put some pictures up as the gears look OK to me, so therefore wouldn’t mind a professional looking at it and giving me their opinion.
I am based on Sunny Brum. Thanks for looking.

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gremlin1234

posted on 9/11/14 at 11:39 AM Reply With Quote
has the diff been stored with its drive facing down?
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shindha

posted on 9/11/14 at 08:57 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Gremlin it was stored without oil on its bottom.
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hkp57

posted on 10/11/14 at 07:17 AM Reply With Quote
Once you have removed the drive pinion nut its a point of no return, to assemble it properly the rest of the diff unit must be removed so during assemble you can properly check the pre-load on the pinion bearing and measure the run out.

For the price of a re-build kit and a profesional rebuild in my mind is far better than putting it in as is and then fighting leaks or bearing problems in the future.

PM me your email address and I will send you the ford manual on them.





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Non custom

posted on 10/11/14 at 10:30 AM Reply With Quote
Wouldn't mind the manual myself if possible too please ?
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ChrisL

posted on 10/11/14 at 03:56 PM Reply With Quote
And me too, will PM you my email address, if that's ok...
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hkp57

posted on 10/11/14 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
Sure I can send it or get it online to download

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/Sierra_Rear_Differential





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SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport

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Smoking Frog

posted on 10/11/14 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
Had the same problem, replaced the radial oil seal and it still leaked. I applied sealant to the drive flange as shown. It seems to have stopped the leak but not IVA'd yet so unable to confirm if it will last. I cannot say this is a good way of doing it, a rebuild may be required.
Drive Flange
Drive Flange


There's also a good pdf called "DiffOverhaul.pdf" ,use the link to google.
https://www.google.co.uk/#q=DiffOverhaul.pdf

Edit:Just found the direct link.
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/rearaxle/DiffOverhaul.pdf

[Edited on 10/11/14 by Smoking Frog]

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sickbag

posted on 11/11/14 at 10:37 AM Reply With Quote
Just read the build manual for the diff - I think stripping and rebuilding an engine seems more straightforward in comparison





Finally back on the job!

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Mr Whippy

posted on 11/11/14 at 12:28 PM Reply With Quote
As long as you mark the position of the nut on the thread with a punch and then count the number of turns to remove the nut, replace the seal then tighten the nut up to exactly the same number of turns and align the mark on the nut then the preload is exactly the same as before. This is a quite normal procedure and I've used it many times on the landys.
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mcerd1

posted on 13/11/14 at 08:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
As long as you mark the position of the nut on the thread with a punch and then count the number of turns to remove the nut, replace the seal then tighten the nut up to exactly the same number of turns and align the mark on the nut then the preload is exactly the same as before. This is a quite normal procedure and I've used it many times on the landys.


but a DTI with a stand only costs £20 (or even less s/h on ebay) - so if your going to do it you might as well check most of the measurements as per the manual above while your at it

or at least use a bit of engineers / marking blue to check the contact patch on the gears





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