simonrh
|
| posted on 10/12/14 at 12:11 PM |
|
|
Pinto Distributor
Had car rolling-roaded yesterday and it all seemed to be in acceptable fettle.
We were looking at the ignition side of things during a few of the runs as there will occasional little "glitches" showing up on the
electrical signal taken from the coil. Only seem minor and not noticeable in driving.
When checking a few things we found you can grab rotor arm and twist it backwards / anticlockwise by something like 15 degrees (vaguely). Initially
assumed it was duff rotor arm and so I replaced it. But the new one does the same. The keyway and key for the rotor arm are all fine. It feels
mechanical. Could i be forcing the vacuum or mechanical advance to operate when I twist it (I dont believe the vacuum is locked off even though it is
unused currently). Is this normal? It rotates far too much to just be backlash in the drive gears.
Converting to distibutorless is a long term goal but not for today!
|
|
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 10/12/14 at 12:19 PM |
|
|
That's the vacuum advance mechanism and/or the standard advance mechanism
Weights that fly out but are held in check by springs
The wrights give aprox idle static advance to 36 degrees
The vac can advance a further 15 on light throttle
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 10/12/14 at 04:29 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by simonrh
Converting to distibutorless is a long term goal but not for today!
go on - you know its the answer ↲↲in the mean time
all you can really do is check all the insides of the dizzy are free and moving correctly. ↲what carbs are you running btw ?
-
|
|
|
simonrh
|
| posted on 10/12/14 at 04:41 PM |
|
|
Twin 40s on an alloy manifold.
The dizzy is one of the middle-later era type with a pickup rather than points and a basic electronic control box.
It all seems a bit pants as I seem to have to run pushing on for 20 degrees advance (I haven't checked the actual timing recently other than
knowing it is now in the "best power without detonating" position) at idle to get the maximum centrifugal advance correct for now (without
ripping it to bits and adjusting everything).
The saving grace is that the electronic box, according to haynes book of words, retards ignition 10 degrees when cranking.
It doesn't seem to struggle to turn except for the first revolution on a below-0 cold morning and that is probably because I have swapped to a
titchy battery and everything is grounded through stainless steel on my car which probably isn't the best conductor.
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 10/12/14 at 04:49 PM |
|
|
what have you done with the vac advance on the dizzy?
-
|
|
|
simonrh
|
| posted on 10/12/14 at 04:59 PM |
|
|
Nothing yet, I can see it is just sitting there, I need to get it locked off at some point but there are more pressing things to sort!
That was the best guess as to what might have been jumping about on the rollers yesterday.
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 11/12/14 at 08:35 AM |
|
|
if you can find some screw in fittings to use as vac take off points then you could connect them up properly for very little cash - and you can also
use the take off points to ballance the carbs 
[Edited on 11/12/2014 by mcerd1]
-
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 11/12/14 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by simonrh
Twin 40s on an alloy manifold.
The dizzy is one of the middle-later era type with a pickup rather than points and a basic electronic control box.
It all seems a bit pants as I seem to have to run pushing on for 20 degrees advance (I haven't checked the actual timing recently other than
knowing it is now in the "best power without detonating" position) at idle to get the maximum centrifugal advance correct for now (without
ripping it to bits and adjusting everything).
The saving grace is that the electronic box, according to haynes book of words, retards ignition 10 degrees when cranking.
It doesn't seem to struggle to turn except for the first revolution on a below-0 cold morning and that is probably because I have swapped to a
titchy battery and everything is grounded through stainless steel on my car which probably isn't the best conductor.
Sounds like the distributor doesn't have enough total advance. If you strip it down you will undoubtedly find a stop that can be ground/filed
to increase this. The advance rate may also be incorrect, and is controlled by both the rate and free length of the springs.
|
|
|
