jlayton
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 02:29 PM |
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help splitting r1 case
as above really. i need help splitting the crankcase as I have melted 3 pistons  iv took head off first to see what damage I had. so now I need to
split the crank case, iv managed to undo what I think is everything, and the case is split the hole way across apart from the last 1cm rotor side. do
I need to take the rotor off is that my problem?? like I say the case is off apart from this
many thanks
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 05:07 PM |
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Haven't worked on any bike engines since the 70s but I would have thought you would have to remove the rotor and any internal backplate before
you can seperate the crankcases
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CosKev3
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 06:43 PM |
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Pretty sure the stator thing inside the rotor is bolted to both halves of the casing.
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jlayton
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 07:25 PM |
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thanks for your comments. but just found many cracks across the valves on the head so would not be surprised if the bores are cracked also as it
got that hot it melted 3 pistons. think I need a new engine
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sdh2903
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 07:50 PM |
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Any ideas what caused the failure?
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jlayton
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 08:08 PM |
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I turbo'd it on completely std internals at 8 psi so yeah my own fault. but it lasted 4 hours on the rollers sweet as a nut. the thing on my
mind is when it started running rough I thought id check the plugs, to my amazement they was not even hand tight (I mean really loose) and the
washer on the plugs was not even squashed from new? would this of caused it to get 2 hot?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 08:50 PM |
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loose plugs should not make it run hot.
Standard internals should be able to hold 8psi, it must have been running weak if you did not hear any pinking.
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jlayton
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 09:02 PM |
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What you mean running weak? (I had it set up by pdq straight away) so I thought it would be running ok he said he set it up for 12.8 afr. Would it be
because I never touched the ignition timing? I really don't no what caused it to get that hot and would love to no. And never herd any noise (
what's linking)
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mark chandler
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 09:51 PM |
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Pinking is the engine knocking because of pre-ignition, high pitched rattling sound.
12.8 is rich so that's not the cause unless it's something related such as the fuel pressure regulator failing or low fuel pressure making
it run lean and burning it up, when it was on the rollers he would have alerted you if it was pinking then.
Once you get it back together I suggest you get a wide band sensor and watch it like a hawk, my blade engine has been thrashed for many hours around
various tracks on standard internals.
When it went bang I am guess you were on light throttle as giving it the beans quickly builds the speed up, do you know what the AFR was at 1/4
throttle?
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jlayton
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 10:07 PM |
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To be honnest I have a aem wideband fitted . But when in the rollers he said my wb was reading different to his? And he said it could of been where I
had positioned it. So never really kept a close eye on it to be honnest. When it played up I took my friend out, Guv it loads like you do then took
his dad out and when I backed off for the last time as we was almost home I noticed it was missing (sounded like it was on 3 cyclinders) stopped and
it blow the d shape rocker cover open like a door and chucked about 300mil of oil out. Like I say would love to no what caused it as going to build a
forged engine and don't want the same to happen. Any advice tips would be great
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mark chandler
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| posted on 14/6/15 at 10:35 PM |
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Consider easy things to start off with
was it low on fuel with an unbaffled tank?
Have a look at the fuel filter, is it blocked?
Failing FPR
Over boosting to do with the Vacumm tubes dropping off keeping the wastegate closed (did it feel exceptionally fast just before going bang, I have an
overboost cutout configured which has saved me a couple of times).
Really anything that could cause it to run weak, it may only take a few seconds to start damaging things, as three Pistons out of 4 are stuffed it has
to be something generic.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 03:36 AM |
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Was it anything to do with the thread you put up about the slides in throttle bodies not opening fully?
I personally think if the tuner said the power was the same at 80% throttle as it was at WOT it wasn't totally set up correctly, either boost
control or fueling/air flow had issues.
I would have hoped they would have detuned it and told you it had issues that needed sorting before running it flat out on the road?
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jlayton
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 06:11 AM |
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Just a thought I have a torques fpr rising rate 1:1 new cost me 149 pound. I think it was a 50 psi before it was tuned and he never touched it so
maybe the std fuel pump can't flow enough? As I have herd the fuel pump a few times sounding like it's working hard? And some times it
was at 9 psi when held wide open
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 06:42 AM |
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That's your problem, it should be 50psi at full chat, I run a v12 jaguar pump on mine as it can flow loads of fuel and has nice barbed
fittings.
You leaned out and burnt it out.
I would be looking at a straight engine replacement, forget forged parts for now, replace the pump and fit a corse filter between the tank and pump
and a big injection filter between the pump and engine, mine is off a 928 Porsche so I know it can again flow a lot.
Also check fuel lines, they may be collapsing between the tank and pump + the pickup could be blocked (the pump should not be changing its noise much,
sounds like a blockage or knackered)
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 08:24 AM |
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As mark says. Fuel pressure/supply problem.
I'd also go for a stocker 5pw. Mine coped fine with 7psi.
PDQ are very very good and have set up 2 of my BECs but they where both N/A.
Do yourself a favour and speak to Sean at Bigcc racing in Wokingham if you need a turbo bike engine tuned. They have a car dyno and anything those
boys don't know about boosted bikes isn't worth knowing.
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jlayton
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 09:09 AM |
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Cheers for the info I have the stock pump in the bottom of my tank so do I need a upgraded direct replacement to go in the tank, as I don't no
how to go about it
Thanks again
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jlayton
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 09:17 AM |
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Is there anyway I can check that my fpr is good even tho I can't start the car as the engines out? Just so I can iliminate that
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gaz_gaz
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 09:24 AM |
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I used an external bosch 044 pump.
Some use the Walbro 255ltr/hr pump which is commonly used on jap car tuning
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dave_424
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 09:32 AM |
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I would say that 12.8 is too lean on an engine that you are running close to the limit. 11.5 would be much safer.
Fuel pressure should be 3 bar/43.5 psi at idle and it should increase when your boost increases, so at 10psi boost, fuel pressure should be 53.5psi
Adding the ability to control ignition timing will definitely help you save your engine.
To check the FPR, connect the FPR to throttle bodies and connect the return line, just like it's plumbed to run the engine. Then run the pump,
check fuel pressure. Then using a blowgun from a compressor, apply pressure to the vac port on the FPR (Careful, don't blast 150psi down it).
Set your compressor reg to 10-20psi, when you apply this pressure to the vac port, you should see fuel pressure rise the same amount.
Another vote for BigCC racing, doesn't sound like your tuner got everything sorted or explained everything to you.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 09:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
Is there anyway I can check that my fpr is good even tho I can't start the car as the engines out? Just so I can iliminate that
Take the Fuel return rail to a 5 litre Jerry can, apply air pressure to the FPR hose that goes to the inlet (push bike pump to around 10psi then run
the pump, you should see it hold constant pressure to whatever it is set to.
I expect your pump is the issue, take it out and throw away as far as possible or vent your anger upon it with a lump hammer, make sure the new pump
has good filters on both sides.
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jlayton
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 12:08 PM |
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To use a external fuel pump I take it I have to remove the intank pump? How do I do it as its got all the std setup in the bottom of the tank
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 12:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
I turbo'd it on completely std internals at 8 psi so yeah my own fault. but it lasted 4 hours on the rollers sweet as a nut. the thing on my
mind is when it started running rough I thought id check the plugs, to my amazement they was not even hand tight (I mean really loose) and the
washer on the plugs was not even squashed from new? would this of caused it to get 2 hot?
If spark plugs are not correctly torqued down then they will certainly run hotter since the thermal impedance between plug and head has been
increased. This could potentially lead to pre-ignition and subsequent detonation if the engine was already on the edge. However, it seems more
likely that the engine leaned out, and extreme detonation has caused the spark plugs to loosen (as well as destroying the rest of the engine).
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CosKev3
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 12:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
To use a external fuel pump I take it I have to remove the intank pump? How do I do it as its got all the std setup in the bottom of the tank
If you don't want to change tank arrangment you will need to fit a swirl pot, then your standard pump would just be used to lift fuel from tank
to swirl pot, then your new higher pressure pump would feed out of the swirl pot to the fuel rail.
pretty sure you would be best off feeding the return from the fuel reg into the swirl pot too.
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jlayton
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 12:30 PM |
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I have a friend who's a great ally welder so prob better off modifying my tank for external pump by the sounds. Cars in pieces so no rush at the
minute
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 02:49 PM |
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Swirl pot is best fed with a low pressure pump, just dump the in tank pump, extend the pickup rod to just above the floor and have a slot cut at the
end so it cannot get blocked with a flat piece of rubbish.
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