t11
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 03:56 PM |
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re bhp
Hi toyota 2zz from the corrola t sport 190 bhp and 186 Nm torque straight out of the box and mega reliable.......
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monkeyarms
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 03:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ugg10
My suggestion would be an st170 on bike carbs
Why not the ST170 on standard injection and ECU ? Its been done and documented on this site.
Good shout on the ST170
In reality What Paul AS said is true.
I have just been for a drive in my 125hp 520kg J15 and it is plenty fast enough for the road, IMO.
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peterrosey
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 04:20 PM |
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Having previously run a Hayabusa-engined Westfield and a Mitsubishi turbo powered Fury, I'd avoid both bike engines and turbos for a lightweight
road car. Bike engines: one trick pony and only good for dry track days. Turbo cars - lag, lots of plumbing and weight, lots of heat to dissipate (too
complex for lightweight cars - there's a reason Caterham have never offered a turbo...)
I'm currently selling my sprint car with 186bhp from a highly-tuned Ford Zetec SE 1.6 (Sigma) and I'd go for one of them, but in slightly
detuned form. The key thing is that they rev really nicely (much better than the long-stroke chuggers that are the 1.8 and 2.0-litre Zetecs). They
also weigh very little - I can pick up my whole engine unaided - about 60kg!
You can buy a 1.6SE engine for under £100 (I paid £90 for my last one!), then add bike throttle bodies (I paid £40 for mine ages ago!), a custom inlet
manifold (see Bogg Bros or, better still, Altiss Engineering) £300 and an ECU (I run an Emerald and would recommend). With a custom exhaust (which
you'll need for any install) you'll get 130bhp, Add a couple of Shawspeed / Piper cams and you'll jump straight up to 160bhp with
ease (with a totally stock head! Gas flow it and you'll get more). All in a rev lightweight package that gives you great handling too...
Peter R
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Simon
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 04:21 PM |
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Sensible hat says k series turbo from MG ZT 160 (I got complete engine for £400) and Z and F ? remap = 210 bhp.
Silly hat says 4 cyl BMW diesel 
ATB
Simon
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 05:22 PM |
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I said volvo earlier but actually im building a middy with an mgzr 160 engine and box. Even with my emerald K6 ecu at 700 quid, the engine and trans
won't cost me more than 300. I couldn't sell the whole car for 500 quid.
Build Blog
Build Photo Album
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snapper
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 06:01 PM |
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Kingster996 got it in 1
If you've got a tight budget then you really need to go with the gearbox you have and an engine that bolts straight on to it
That means if it's a Type 9 (or MT75) Zetec is the newest that fits with ease
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 06:39 PM |
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You can get a BMW 2.8 and gearbox for well under £1k and will give you about 190Bhp without any modifications. Lovely smooth engine with a lot of
torque as well. Simple upgrades such as an inlet manifold from a 325 and a remapped ECU will give you a good 30Bhp more. Then again, I'm bias.
Being a straight 6, they are quite long however.
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Irony
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 06:53 PM |
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There is a lot of reverse fishermen's tails on here. I did all this for threepence etc etc. I bought my engine for £600. It was fully
refurbished, reported, balanced, new pistons etc. But it didn't include cylinder heads, cam, water pump, manifolds etc, prop, gearbox.
I doubt you could do any engine+ancillaries for £1k.
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 07:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Irony
There is a lot of reverse fishermen's tails on here. I did all this for threepence etc etc. I bought my engine for £600. It was fully
refurbished, reported, balanced, new pistons etc. But it didn't include cylinder heads, cam, water pump, manifolds etc, prop, gearbox.
I doubt you could do any engine+ancillaries for £1k.
I bought the BMW engine, gearbox and ECU for a lot less than 1k and only had to spend an additional £25 modifying the sump to fit. Do a quick search
on ebay and you will find some. Of course that didn't include the engine mounts or exhaust.
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Irony
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 07:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Stevedon't ace
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
There is a lot of reverse fishermen's tails on here. I did all this for threepence etc etc. I bought my engine for £600. It was fully
refurbished, reported, balanced, new pistons etc. But it didn't include cylinder heads, cam, water pump, manifolds etc, prop, gearbox.
I doubt you could do any engine+ancillaries for £1k.
I bought the BMW engine, gearbox and ECU for a lot less than 1k and only had to spend an additional £25 modifying the sump to fit. Do a quick search
on ebay and you will find some. Of course that didn't include the engine mounts or exhaust.
And the exhaust cost............. It just depends on your definition of what 'engine' includes.
[Edited on 9/7/15 by Irony]
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Simon
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 09:41 PM |
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Exhaust cost really shouldn't be that great - i made all mine and that I'm afraid to say is the whole point of the site.
ATB
Simon
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 11:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Irony
There is a lot of reverse fishermen's tails on here. I did all this for threepence etc etc. I bought my engine for £600. It was fully
refurbished, reported, balanced, new pistons etc. But it didn't include cylinder heads, cam, water pump, manifolds etc, prop, gearbox.
I doubt you could do any engine+ancillaries for £1k.
So far I've spent 700 on an aluminium audi V8 and transaxle, driveshafts, wheels and hubs. With some DIYing I don't think I'll
struggle to have that lot running for another 300.
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owelly
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| posted on 9/7/15 at 11:22 PM |
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My car has a rolling road 240BHP and the entire car cost £600! I did a fair bit of fabricating though.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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Nickp
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 04:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWallace
You can get a BMW 2.8 and gearbox for well under £1k and will give you about 190Bhp without any modifications. Lovely smooth engine with a lot of
torque as well. Simple upgrades such as an inlet manifold from a 325 and a remapped ECU will give you a good 30Bhp more. Then again, I'm bias.
Being a straight 6, they are quite long however.
Unfortunately, I don't think a straight 6 is an option in the tiddly Avon chassis, or so I'm led to believe 
Shame really as I've effectively ended up with a complete 328i engine / box / ancillaries and enough parts to build a 2nd one (alusil bottom
end, head, gearbox etc etc) for under £500 and that includes the M50 manifold and 230bhp remap
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Irony
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 07:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Simon
Exhaust cost really shouldn't be that great - i made all mine and that I'm afraid to say is the whole point of the site.
ATB
Simon
I wish I could have made my own exhaust. It would have saved me a small fortune!
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RogerM
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 11:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by peterrosey
Having previously run a Hayabusa-engined Westfield and a Mitsubishi turbo powered Fury, I'd avoid both bike engines and turbos for a lightweight
road car. Bike engines: one trick pony and only good for dry track days. Turbo cars - lag, lots of plumbing and weight, lots of heat to dissipate (too
complex for lightweight cars - there's a reason Caterham have never offered a turbo...)
Peter R
I'm wondering why you think this about bike engines, especially the busa.
I run a ZX9R in my Riot, all up weight is 400Kg and with myself (about 75kg) and my mate (I'd estimate about 80kg) on board we have happily
driven to shows and trackdays at anything between "driving Miss Daisy" and "sorry officer I won't do that again" and it
is great on the road.
Two up I it'll pull like a 'normal' hatch from about 3.5K and if you keep it around 5K it'll still out gun most most modern
GTis without dropping below 35mpg.
Equally I often drive it down the motorway with stop-start traffic jams either end of the journey and it is no more stressful to drive it like that
than my Golf cabrio was.
When I get her on track very very little comes past me, the occassional busa powered 7 (then only if driven well enough to match the corner exit
momentum I can generate) and the odd car where a brake service would cost more than the Riot did.
I'd say that is far from a one-trick pony.
That said I have driven a ZX9R in an MK Indy with plush seats and lots of niceties fitted and that did find a little more reluctant to party but it
would have been nearly 33% extra weight.
Was it Colin Chatman who said to go fast just add lightness?
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 02:55 PM |
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There's no reason an appropriately turbocharged car would have overly noticeable lag.
Bike engines, when geared through the diff correctly, offer a very similar "at thewheels" torque curve and power curve, which is all the
matters at the end of the day. You'd get as much variation between car engines as you would between car and bike, but bike has that nutty high
revving feel. Personally I've got lightweight V8 so I can't shout too much about it
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furryeggs
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 05:16 PM |
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looking at pricing of parts (DanST & ebay) and with me doing the work and my ford mechanic mates working for beer I recon I'd be under the
£1000.
If i were to run a 1.8 zetec running bike carbs and nodiz, with porting and cams would i be looking at the 180bhp or less? there seems to be a lot
more 1.8 zetecs about with all the bits still attached, where as 2.0 zetecs seem to be bare for the same price... Plus am i right in thinking a 2.0ltr
needs the 1.8 clutch assembly fitting to make it fit the type 9 (more expense).
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big_wasa
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 05:33 PM |
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The 1.8 fly' is indeed the budget fly of choice for a zetec e.
There are two trains of thought.
1.8 revs much nicer and the other is there is no replacement for displacement.
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Toltec
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 06:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The old Rover 2litre T series Turbo Sport engine would do 180bhp easily but it has to be the Sport version as it forged pistons.
The T16 out of the 820 has 180bhp, the 220 & 620 have just under 200bhp, condition allowing. The earlier M16 had stronger pistons, but all of the
T16 are basically all the same. You can get a bit more out of them, but soon need to be upgrading the turbo, internals and ecu etc.
Not sure what gearbox would fit either, though some people fit them to mgbs.
The Saab engine is a good shout, the internals are good, the ecu is re-mappable and they hook up to an omega gearbox. The turbo is tiny, but 200+bhp
is possible.
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SJ
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| posted on 10/7/15 at 10:00 PM |
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quote:
The 1.8 fly' is indeed the budget fly of choice for a zetec e.
1.8 CVH flywheel is a much better choice as it is 30% lighter.
You need a seperate trigger wheel and to drill the holes out though.
I have a 2.0 Zetec on bike carbs and probably have around 150 BHP for about £350 ish all in. I got a cheap Westfield CVH exhaust system (£125) which
fits the Zetec and bought my ZX6 carbs when they were much cheaper than now though.
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daz928sb
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| posted on 20/7/15 at 05:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by peterrosey
Having previously run a Hayabusa-engined Westfield and a Mitsubishi turbo powered Fury, I'd avoid both bike engines and turbos for a lightweight
road car. Bike engines: one trick pony and only good for dry track days. Turbo cars - lag, lots of plumbing and weight, lots of heat to dissipate (too
complex for lightweight cars - there's a reason Caterham have never offered a turbo...)
I'm currently selling my sprint car with 186bhp from a highly-tuned Ford Zetec SE 1.6 (Sigma) and I'd go for one of them, but in slightly
detuned form. The key thing is that they rev really nicely (much better than the long-stroke chuggers that are the 1.8 and 2.0-litre Zetecs). They
also weigh very little - I can pick up my whole engine unaided - about 60kg!
You can buy a 1.6SE engine for under £100 (I paid £90 for my last one!), then add bike throttle bodies (I paid £40 for mine ages ago!), a custom inlet
manifold (see Bogg Bros or, better still, Altiss Engineering) £300 and an ECU (I run an Emerald and would recommend). With a custom exhaust (which
you'll need for any install) you'll get 130bhp, Add a couple of Shawspeed / Piper cams and you'll jump straight up to 160bhp with
ease (with a totally stock head! Gas flow it and you'll get more). All in a rev lightweight package that gives you great handling too...
Peter R
I totally Disagree with this statement regarding a bike engine and find it very confusing for a man that has supposed to have had a busa Westfield
especially to state this.
I have had pintos zetecs and v8 sevens over the years.
and for the first time i now have a mac1 zx10r worx.
This will kick every other car that i have mentioned arse EASILY! there is no comparison.
I haven't even taken this one on a track day yet but its absolutely fine at all speeds on the road!! BLISTERING
My advice is why pay for a 200bhp engine when a bike engine is in a different league ☺
A ONE TRICK PONY THIS IS CERTAINLY NOT!!😄
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750mc
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| posted on 26/7/15 at 03:54 PM |
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Do you want the power just to say you have 200 bhp? Assume you actually have it at what point do you actually use all 200bhp? Very rarely in most
cases. For my money a stock blacktop with regular oil changes will see you right. Sensible torque curve unlike a tuned one maybe and you can bounce it
on the limiter 'til the cows come home.
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 26/7/15 at 04:23 PM |
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just finished the rebuild of the mk indy which is for sale now,
it got a 2ltr black top zetec on twin 40 webber carbs, stock engine running 160 bhp, and i must say after a drive out the other day and now getting
full throttle, this thing moves,
lights up the tyres easily in 2nd gear, with plenty of grunt, and pull very hard upto the road legal limits  poss past it on private roads
bang for buck i dont think you can beat it, and if it goes wrong they are cheap to replace, easy upgrades with cams and head work for the 200bhp if
you need to get there,
but i think you will be surprised how well they go
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furryeggs
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| posted on 26/7/15 at 06:50 PM |
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After bieng at Tiger over the weekend and seeing and hearing what 150ish BHP 7's are like 200bhp will be something for a later date. Purely for
budget I am looking at a 1.8 zetec, complete engine's with aux and ecu/loom for £100 then selling the bits not needed to recoup a little cash,
compared to £250+ for a bare 2.0 zetec that'll need clutch, pumps pulley etc adding at extra cost
2.0 cams £50
Danst bike carb kit £500 ish
Nodiz £250
exhaust £250
total £1050.
I'd be doing most of the work with a little help from my ford boys at my old work and with some money back from selling bits and careful
shopping i reckon i'd be a good chunk under a grand and around the 150bhp mark.
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