want2race
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 02:16 PM |
|
|
Need help with front Bulkhead
Those LA, LB etc pieces are confusing me.
My gut feeling is that there should be a prevalence of a compound angle but I have never seen a drawing show this.
Can anyone offer me any advice or a site to guide me before i start making this piece a compounding problem..
Thanks'
|
|
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 03:08 PM |
|
|
Maybe a little more information is needed to gain some useful advice?
I always found the best way to gain trust and respect, is to pander to the experience of others especially when you are a newbie.
Just a little guidance in the grand scheme of things!
Welcome to the LB forum - you'll find all of us a happy, jovial bunch (with exceptions  ) who basically have nothing else to do than wander
through the many postings looking for a question that can be answered.
Certain styles of asking questions seem to generate very little response...
Have fun with your build 
|
|
|
want2race
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 03:44 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Maybe a little more information is needed to gain some useful advice?
I always found the best way to gain trust and respect, is to pander to the experience of others especially when you are a newbie.
Just a little guidance in the grand scheme of things!
Welcome to the LB forum - you'll find all of us a happy, jovial bunch (with exceptions ) who basically have nothing else to do than wander
through the many postings looking for a question that can be answered.
Certain styles of asking questions seem to generate very little response...
Have fun with your build
Ok lets take a tunk.
I followed the boks measurements but in order for the pieces to meet on the same plane of the piece of metal I would have to have a front bulkhead
compound cut.
http://mcsorley.net/locost/images/FrontEndAssembly.gif
That sthe section I am working on and cannot work out whats wrong for the life of me unless its a. a compound angle or b its not going to sit on the
plane of the tube
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 04:01 PM |
|
|
Answer is A
It's a compound angle both ends of la and lb.
[Edited on 31/12/04 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 04:14 PM |
|
|
The 1st Edition of the book had conflicting info on the front frame design in particular how LC sits in relation to the horizontal when viewed in side
elevation --- I am pretty sure at least some of the errors are still in the second edition
Inspite of doing some 3d trig and my best to get the compound angle cut correctly to get mine spot on I did some quite subtle hot bending of LA
and LB to get LC sitting square when viewed from the side.
|
|
|
chrisf
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 07:18 PM |
|
|
The compound cuts you're talking about do require a bit of spatial ability. My impression is that you are having a bit of trouble with this
part. You could cut the compound cut by hand using a hack saw; which is what I would do if I were building the assembly again. I used a compound miter
saw, which you could rent from Home Depot and put a metal cut off wheel on it (I bought mine and it broke just before chassis completion).
Alternatively, you can use a band saw. You can tilt the table to the required first angle, then use the sliding protractor for the second angle.
I cut mine a few mm long and used a bench grinder to get the proper fit. I also screwed up a couple times, as I'm sure others have as well. I
don't remember being so intimidated, though.
--Hope this helps, Chris
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by chrisf
... I also screwed up a couple times, as I'm sure others have as well....
Nope, only you
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
want2race
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
well since I have screwed this piece up. I now want to know what the best cutting tool is to use.. Bandsaw and Chop saw have failed me!
What has angle markings on its base that are clear as day ?
|
|
|
gazza285
|
| posted on 31/12/04 at 10:27 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
quote:
Originally posted by chrisf
... I also screwed up a couple times, as I'm sure others have as well....
Nope, only you
I've seen your website.
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 1/1/05 at 03:03 AM |
|
|
You don't know the half of it...
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
Cita
|
| posted on 1/1/05 at 08:22 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by chrisf
..... I also screwed up a couple times, as I'm sure others have as well.
--Hope this helps, Chris
I do that on a regulare base
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 1/1/05 at 11:05 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by want2race
well since I have screwed this piece up. I now want to know what the best cutting tool is to use.. Bandsaw and Chop saw have failed me!
What has angle markings on its base that are clear as day ?
Short of using a NC machine to cut the compound angles they will always be out and in any case don't trust the book measurements apart from
being an amalgam of several chassis the drawings have been partly done in imperial and partly in metric, so no other course but work them out for
your self.
After that mark out LA and LB properly, cut by hacksaw leaving each section slightly over size, finish the lower ends with a flat file clamp to
the jig and weld to LD. Tack weld and check for accuracy if OK fully weld to LD. Remove from jig and check angles , if only slightly out some
gentle hot bend of LA and LB close to the weld with LD may be enough .
The next stage is relatively easy, by placing the partly complete assembly in the jig you can see exactly how much metal to remove and the
angles to file/cut at.
After that clamp it firmly down to the jig and tack weld on LC . now remove and check against the chassis. If it checks out clamp down firmly and
fully weld.
Now offer it back up to the chassis -- and make any adjustments required,
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 1/1/05 at 01:41 PM |
|
|
An easy way to get the job done is to print up the relevant drawing from Mcsorleys plans, cut them out and use as a template. Lay the members on your
jig, tack ONCE at either end and use a straight edge to ensure the tubes are lined up with the centreline of the chassis, twist with an adjustable
spanner if necessary, then add the other 12 tacks. Garnish and serve!
 
Rescued attachment FrontPanel.jpg
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
