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Author: Subject: Easy bhp from Zetec?
number-1

posted on 16/4/20 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
Easy bhp from Zetec?

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Ideally from experience and not opinion.

I have a 2L 16v silvertop Zetec engine in the car and want to keep it N/A. I have a decent exhaust but want more BHP. The internals are standard apart from con rod bolts. What is the easiest way to get near the 200 bhp mark? I want something simple......bolt on etc. Race cams.....are they simple to install or will other parts need replacing to allow them to fit?

Any ideas?

Cheers

N1

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Ugg10

posted on 16/4/20 at 05:00 PM Reply With Quote
What Inlet have you got? Carbs or injection.

Getting near 200hp on just a cam, even with injection throttle bodies is going to be tight, probably need head work.

165hp is easy with zx6r carbs, manifold and ecu, 175hp with throttle bodies, manifold and ecu from there it is cams and head work.

Remember, depending on what you have at the moment you may need to also upgrade brakes and maybe gearbox to take the extra power.

Have a look at the danst, race line and dunnell power packs to see how they do it.

[Edited on 16/4/20 by Ugg10]

[Edited on 16/4/20 by Ugg10]





---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com

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number-1

posted on 16/4/20 at 05:09 PM Reply With Quote
Hello mate. Sorry, i should have included more detail. The car when i bought it was running around 230 bhp on a supercharger and all the needed components were upgraded to match the power.

The car will be running ZX12r throttle bodies on a Canems ECU

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big_wasa

posted on 16/4/20 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
You will definitely need headwork and cams. More aggressive cams would require the pistons pocketing. You may need hd valve springs and the hydraulic lifters arenít keen on the very high rpms needed.

I love a Zetec but itís neither cheap or easy to make big power

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peter030371

posted on 17/4/20 at 08:13 AM Reply With Quote
Change it to a Duratec
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cliftyhanger

posted on 17/4/20 at 08:49 AM Reply With Quote
Dunnell do some option kits and power graphs for each, so will give you an idea of what is needed (not suggesting buying from them, unless you have an excessively fat wallet)

http://www.dunnellengines.com/zetec.php

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pigeondave

posted on 17/4/20 at 11:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Dunnell do some option kits and power graphs for each, so will give you an idea of what is needed (not suggesting buying from them, unless you have an excessively fat wallet)

http://www.dunnellengines.com/zetec.php


Wallet is not fat anymore

Don't forget a proper sized exhaust too.

My tip would be get what you want not what you can afford or you'll end up doing it twice and paying more in the long run.

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PorkChop

posted on 17/4/20 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
Change it to a Duratec


This. A Duratec on good ITBs will get you about there. Add a mildish set of cams to exceed it.

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ettore bugatti

posted on 17/4/20 at 04:45 PM Reply With Quote
Omex als do kits based zetecs. It seems to me that 170hp is the sweet spot for a zetec n/a.

http://omextechnology.co.uk/Omex%20Zetec%20Focus%20Engine%20v4_10.pdf

Duratec has more potential n/a.

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Shooter63

posted on 17/4/20 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
Not unless I've missed something, you bought the car with a 230bhp blown engine, if you want more power why not fit the blower back on? Not only will you have the bhp you want but the extra torque you'll have will make the car nicer to drive.

Shooter

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number-1

posted on 17/4/20 at 09:58 PM Reply With Quote
The engine was never blown. The engine is solid.

The reason i have gone N/A is Noise. With the blower it howled like a banshee and was too loud for track. Id rather lose bhp an get it on track. If it was a road only car id have left it as was

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AdamR20

posted on 18/4/20 at 06:29 AM Reply With Quote
Firstly I totally agree that the N/A sound is awesome and as Gordon Murray says, the soundtrack is vital in a fun performance car!

I've had a couple of Zetec Silvertops in the past, a 1.8 and a 2.0. Neither of them were tuned 'to the max', instead opting for safe operation at high rpm, and properly tuned spark and fuel tables all the way through all rpms and TPS %. A good mapper who understands the value of throttle response and 'area undre the curve' will give you a faster car overall than someone who just produces you a graph at 100% TPS that shows 200bhp.

The 2.0 was completely bog standard, but had a full rebuild / refresh. That was on some 38mm bike ITBs with Megasquirt, and made (according to the dyno it was tuned on) 175bhp at just over 6000rpm. Revving higher didn't produce more power. I think cams and headwork would have made 200.

The 1.8 did have a bit of a fettle - a mild cam and some headwork, ARP rod bolts. 45mm Jenvey ITBs (a bit too large, really), DTA ECU. This made 187bhp at 7300rpm and climbing rapidly, on a very stingy dyno. I did some sprints in this car and it regularly beat other Se7ens with 30, 40, 50, 60, 70bhp more - but it was light and handled well.

The subsequent owner raised the limiter to 8000 and the dyno guy reckons that now would touch 200bhp.

The key, and difference, seems to be in the high rpm breathing - cams and head work, as has been said - you'll never made huge torque with a small N/A engine so you need revs to get the bhp up.


The other route which I favour as it tends to be cheaper, less intrusive and easier to do at home is weight reduction. Don't forget this is about bhp/ton, so if you can reduce the ton it may have more effect than increrasing the bhp! Dropping weight also makes the car stop better and go round corners better, whereas bhp only makes it speed up faster.

Gearing also plays a massive factor. I see a lot of cars with a theoretical maximum speed of 150, 160mph or more. Chuck a new diff in, drop that by 25% to match the aerodynamic top speed of the car (usually 110-120ish depending on which car, which screen, how much power, etc) and you suddenly have 25% more torque at the rear wheels. This makes an absolutely huge difference.

I've gone through these two factors with people before and it usually falls on deaf ears because they are fixated on 'that' number... maybe it'll be different this time

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Shooter63

posted on 18/4/20 at 08:02 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by number-1
The engine was never blown. The engine is solid.

The term " blown " as in super charged

Shooter

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will121

posted on 18/4/20 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
No easy way to NA 200bhp, I had throttle bodies newman 260 cams and emerald ecu 172bhp, cheapest way, bike carbs, cam and diy ported head should see the same, watch out for cam lobe, head clearance and pistons
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