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Author: Subject: Best attachment method for gate post to brick
James

posted on 14/5/21 at 06:12 PM Reply With Quote
Best attachment method for gate post to brick

Greetings,

The gates I ordered 12 weeks ago have finally turned up!

Each one is 7' tall (ish) and 53kg. I need to install a 90x70mm hardwood post on the side of the garage to hang one of the gates. (The other has an in-ground post)

Would you recommend shield anchors, concrete screws or something else to go into the brickwork of the garage?

I've already got both shield anchors and concrete screws in stock.

I've considered putting coach bolts or studding all the way through the garage wall but this is right at the front corner of the garage where the return of the front face bricks would get in the way. The gas pipe is also just there inside so knowing my luck I'd hit the gas pipe with the drill (for the 3rd time! ).

Shield anchors, concrete screws, gripfill, chewing gum?


Cheers! Have a lovely weekend!

James





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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights." - Muhammad Ali

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jacko

posted on 14/5/21 at 06:25 PM Reply With Quote
How about easydrive csk screws look as screw fix
Graham

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russbost

posted on 14/5/21 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
Those are heavy gates & (presumably) a lot of leverage, if you can possibly get studding right thro' the wall I'd say that's definitely the way to go, it's only going to move if it pulls the whole wall over! Assuming your using an SDS drill & a masonry bit if you're going to be anywhere near the gas pipe (which I assume is copper or you wouldn't be worrying about puncturing it?) then put a piece of steel around it to shield it.

I'd forget about gripfill & use Siroflex, probably around 10 times the anchoring strength & remains slightly flexible- Oli at Furore Products has it, around 6 a tube IIRC

The one on the in ground post is going to need a lot of depth on that ground post or put a caster on the end of the gate to take the weight





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steve m

posted on 14/5/21 at 07:24 PM Reply With Quote
James must have something to hide, if the gates are 7ft high and weigh 120 lbs each

James is to be avoided, as he must mix with some very dodgy people

M8, im available for any work ?





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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mcerd1

posted on 14/5/21 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
Resin anchors are made for this - I spec them nearly every day at work

Drill a blind hole in the brick, blow out the dust (bottle brush helps too), inject some resin and stick a bit of screwed rod in - most set in and hour or so

they are designed for jobs like sticking an extension onto your house or the anchor bolts for steel frame buildings etc. - so you'd put a few of them in to spread the load into the wall as the bricks will fail long before the anchors will


you can get these one in screwfix (one cartridge will be plenty)

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-v-hybrid-mortar-resin-360ml/88507

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-vl-300-t-vinylester-resin-300ml/3613x

just be aware you need the matching gun for these as they are a 2 part cartridge:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/kits-accessories/cat840120

if you don't fancy having bits of screwed rod sticking out then get some threaded sockets (aka sleeve anchors) and resin them in instead

[Edited on 14/5/2021 by mcerd1]





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cliftyhanger

posted on 15/5/21 at 05:18 AM Reply With Quote
I have had great success with concrete screws, both the smaller (6mm hole)frame/window fixing type and the "lightening bolt" variety, the ones I have used required a 10mm hole. Solid as a rock, no expansion to damage the substrate.
Not had so much success with shield anchors, probably down to the substrate either crumbling or not thick enough. Sometimes OK, but I tend to use teh screws now. Had a single go at using resin, seems good. (drilled 10mm holes, and used 300mm long m8 studs into teh top of a wall, to anchor my car port down.)

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mark.s

posted on 15/5/21 at 10:13 AM Reply With Quote
Exactly what mcerd 1 said 100%
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BenB

posted on 15/5/21 at 06:29 PM Reply With Quote
Yes, I was going to suggest resin fixation system also. I've used it to attach a 8M*2M lean to to the side of our workplace and also used it at home for fixing a very wobbly doorframe into some masonary that was very weak and wouldn't take a hammer-in fixiing. Both jobs worked perfectly. With the doorframe I wanted an invisible fixing and I was painting afterwards so I used a forstner bit to drill out a section the depth of a nut and washer and then bolted the doorframe in place then filled the gap around the nut. Admittidly it'll be a PITA if I ever want to remove the doorframe but hey....
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lsdweb

posted on 18/5/21 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
Resin is my go to option for this kind of work. We're converting an old pub that is a mix of stone, block, brick and cinder and the resin gun deals with everything.

Screwfix have a good deal - https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-kem-ii-300-p2g6n-resin-heavy-duty-gun-2-x-300ml/933jf (gun and 2 tubes of resin).

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James

posted on 18/5/21 at 02:41 PM Reply With Quote
Hey Folks,

Thanks for all the helpful responses- does Non-car Chat not appear in the recent activity list?

Anyway, out of (for once) not wanting to buy an extra tool/tubes I thought I wouldn't use very often I went with the concrete bolts instead of the apparent concensus- the resin.

Bear in mind I was doing it in the dark and rain (and as usual I made my tolerances too tight) it went fairly well and the post appears at least to be fairly rock solid.


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I'm sure you'll all be fascinated if I put up a picture of the finished gates so will do that once they're done!


Thanks again!

James





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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights." - Muhammad Ali

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